Manish Malhotra's finale act breaks away from fast-fashion couture

Manish Malhotra

On Wednesday, veteran designer Manish Malhotra was the finale act as he closed the digital edition of the India Couture Week with a showcase of his latest couture collection 'Roohaniyat -- A celebration called life.'

Bollywood actress Jhanvi Kapoor featured in the fashion film which was streamed in film format across the various social media handles of the organisers of the event, the Fashion Design Council of India. Focusing both on bridal wear and jewellery, the sequence was shot at the Leela Palace Hotel in New Delhi.

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The film opened with a tribute dedicated to the artistry of Indian craftsmen and the art and craft of Awadh and Punjab. It read: "The collection is a tribute to our diverse heritage and soulful artistry of the Indian craftsmen / The Nazakat of Awadh and the vibrance of Punjab, a story of over thousands of years of the people, their life and emotions / The two regions are culturally rich where the traditional art and crafts flourished seamlessly / An immersive walk through the cultural corridors of the heritage and the doorways of their life."

Inspired by the aesthetic of the Mughals, the collection presented a suitable lineup of ensembles for modern tastes. Kalidar kurtas, khada dupattas, ghararas, izar salwars for women and jama, angrakha and heavy shawls for men in pure and cotton silks, mashru, velvets, and muslins rich in tradition yet effortless in drape and style.

The designer has used archival hand-basted and hand-quilted fabrics that comprise accent borders that are zari-woven in original gold and silver. Using embroideries from Rajasthan, Ahmedabad, Kutch the collection was a reverie of heritage and opulence. Voluminous silhouettes featured fine layering in a colour palette which ranged from natural earthen hues and light summer bridal shades like teal, pistachio green, dusky pink, grey, and maroon, all-natural dyed.

"The collection breaks-away from the aesthetics of fast-fashion couture and aims to revive the slow and purist workmanship of our indigenous craftsmen and artisans. It seeks to recall our age-old craft and techniques while keeping the first line of inspiration from the most enduring facets of Mughal living. It's art and architecture - vintage gardens, palaces, paintings, jewellery, museums, and costumes that are immortalised in the grand and diverse culture of India," says Malhotra.

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