This is the only sunscreen guide you will ever need

Social media is rife with conjecture surrounding sunscreen, which makes the hunt for this skincare essential tedious and confusing. When advised by her dermatologist to apply sunscreen daily, encountering this dearth of reliable information led Niloni Shah, a Mumbai-based pharmacist, to create a range of skincare products - The Pink Foundry - which were backed by science. "What started as a curious probe to find the right skincare products for myself, led to the desire to create products that would leave the skin feeling healthier by application of products," explains Shah.

The necessity of few skincare products is contested as much as that of sunscreen. While experts stand by the protection it lends to the skin from harmful UV rays, there are claims that darker skin tones might not need it at all. "People of all skin types need to wear sunscreen to protect their skin from harmful UV rays", clarifies Dr. Manjot Marwah, who has over a decade of experience in the field of skincare and dermatology. "All sunscreens are not the same in terms of effectiveness, which is where the confusion lies. Myths surrounding sunscreen are aplenty and need to be busted," adds Dr. Sushma Yadav, dermatologist, cosmetologist, and hair transplant surgeon.

Below, the three experts answer the most frequently asked questions about sunscreen.

Why do we need sunscreen?

Marwah: People of all skin types and complexions need sunscreen to protect themselves from harmful UV rays. UV can cause photoageing, sunburns, pigmentation such as melasma, freckles and they can also lead to skin cancers. More so, there can be tanning and an uneven skin tone if we don't use sunscreen regularly.

How does sunscreen work?

Shah: There are two types of sunscreens, physical and chemical. Both of them have the capacity to shield your skin but they both work differently. Physical sunscreens usually contain natural minerals like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Chemical sunscreens on the other hand have carbon based compounds like optinov, zade, avobenzone, octisalate, oxybenzone and octocrylene.

Physical sunscreens work by blocking and deflecting the UV rays from the sun. These natural minerals are usually white pigments that stay even after the skin has been exposed to UV radiation. They deflect and scatter these UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the skin. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation. The carbon based compounds in these sunscreens cause a chemical reaction when exposed to the sun and this reaction converts the UV rays into heat which is later released from the skin. The sunscreen we spent years researching and formulating at The Pink Foundry is 100% mineral based physical sunscreen without any chemical sunscreen actives. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide causes an invisible layer on your skin and deflects all the UVA and UVB rays that our skin is exposed to.

What is SPF?

Shah: SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. This is how we measure the protection from the sun's UVB rays. For example, SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks 97% and SPF 50 blocks 98%. It is usually recommended that you stay between SPF 30 and 50. This is sufficient protection without feeling a false sense of complete sun protection that you might feel from going above SPF 50+.

For daily-wear and an urban lifestyle, SPF 30 is perfect to use. What you need to make sure is that your sunscreen is broad spectrum. It has to protect you from both UVA and UVB rays.

When advised by her dermatologist to apply sunscreen daily, Mumbai-based pharmacist Niloni Shah spent years on research and development to create a range of skincare products - The Pink Foundry - which were backed by science. Photo courtesy: Niloni Shah

How much sunscreen should I use and when should I apply it?

Yadav: You must apply two strips of sunscreen that should be squeezed from the tip to the base of the index and middle fingers and applied to each side of the face.

Do not forget to apply it to your other exposed areas like arms, feet, and neck. The first application must be included in your morning skincare routine, you can then reapply after every three hours till as long as you are out in the sun.

Are all sunscreens the same?

Shah: All sunscreens are not the same, simply because not all sunscreens are broad spectrum. There are many makeup products too that boast of containing SPF but having just SPF is not enough to protect the skin. You need to look at the label and see if ‘broad spectrum' is mentioned or not, because broad spectrum provides protection against UVA and UVB rays. And even in SPF, ranges 15, 30 and 50 are available, so even that is something to consider.

Yadav: It is important to note that different ingredients work differently for different people. You must speak to your dermatologist to pick out the right sunscreen for you.

In what order must we apply sunscreen?

Marwah: Always apply your sunscreen as the last step in your routine. For example, first you would wash your face with cleanser, then apply the serum, moisturiser and lastly, sunscreen. Be sure to reapply throughout the day, as it does break down as time goes by.

Dr. Manjot Marwah (L) and Dr. Sushma Yadav (R) have decade-long experience in dermatology, and recommend wearing sunscreen throughout the year. Photo courtesy: Manjot Marwah and Sushma Yadav

Why is it important to wear sunscreen throughout the year?

Marwah: Sunlight is made up of UVA, UVB and UVC rays. UVA and UVB rays are harmful for our skin. UVA rays are the ones that cause tanning, pigmentation and photo-ageing, and affect us directly in harsh sunlight. However, UVB rays can affect the skin even when we're indoors, as they can come in through the window or be reflected onto us from a surface. They are mainly responsible for sunburns and tanning. This is why it is strongly recommended to wear sunscreen even when one is not in harsh sunlight, cold weather or even indoors.

Shah: Wearing sunscreen is not just a way to prevent skin cancer, but it is also a way to retain your skin's youthfulness and overall health. Ultra-violet rays are an invisible radiation and are present all year round, even in the winter months and even when you're indoors.

How to pick a sunscreen for different skin types?

Marwah: It is important to know your skin type before you choose a sunscreen.

Shah: There are many formats available in the market today. Depending on the weather and your skin sensitivity, you can choose the format that works for you best.

For sensitive skin:

Shah: If you have a sensitive skin type, it is important for you to choose a physical sunscreen which will sit like an invisible layer on your skin, without penetrating the skin. There are many types of physical sunscreens available in the market, like mousses and lotions.

Marwah: Physical sunscreens (which leave a white cast) or tinted sunscreens can aid in covering up redness while also protecting you against the sun.

For oily skin:

Marwah: A gel based sunscreen would be most suitable as it doesn't leave the skin feeling greasy, doesn't cause acne and is non-comedogenic. Other good options are spray, serum or powder cream-based sunscreens.

For dry skin:

Shah: If you have dry skin and the climate you live in is conducive to that, you can choose a sunscreen that has a very hydrating base. Choose a thick sunscreen that is cream based for this skin type. So, you can choose a gel, cream, lotion, stick, mousse depending on your skin type.

Marwah: A lotion based or cream based sunscreen is optimal as it helps in hydrating your skin so it doesn't dry out further. A sunscreen stick with a waxy base also works well for reapplications.

Can sunscreen cause acne?

Yadav: Some sunscreens can cause acne by clogging your pores. This happens if the chemicals in your sunscreen are not suitable for your skin or they irritate your skin. This doesn't apply to all sunscreens. To avoid this, you must only use the sunscreen recommended by your dermatologist for your skin type.

Will daily usage darken skin?

Yadav: Sunscreens usually do not darken the skin but if your sunscreen is making your skin darker, it is probably because of certain chemicals or ingredients in your product. These chemicals don't suit everybody, so, you can either opt for mineral sunscreen or seek your dermatologist's advice.

With several brands claiming to be all-natural cropping up, consumer trust is fading. What kind of quality checks are performed by cosmetic and skincare brands? Are these checks uniform across the industry?

Shah: Typically, industry conducts basic quality checks such as CoA (certificate of analysis), review of input materials, process checks as per batch record for fill weight and finished product testing as per defined specifications. Quality checks can vary based on the requirements. All cosmetic manufacturers will release the product after testing against defined specifications.

However, the additional checks such as input materials screening, stringent testing as per validated methods varies based on the quality culture, management commitment, and brand ethos. For example, we made sure The Pink Foundry's products undergo the most stringent quality checks for cosmetic products similar to drug products. Specifically, all the raw material suppliers are qualified, each and every lot of input materials are tested, batch is manufactured in a classified environment, stringent in-process checks for environmental conditions, water used, filling accuracy etc. Furthermore, the finished product is tested with validated methods and screened for microbial load and rheological properties.

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