Coriander pesto to grilled tomatoes: Exploring Mumbai chefs’ unique variations of classic sandwiches

Sandwiches are synonymous with Mumbai because of the classic Bambaiya sandwich that can be found around every street corner at affordable prices. The use of fresh soft bread with a simple mix of sliced tomatoes, onions, potatoes, and cucumber with a sprinkle of salt and chaat masala is delicious on any given day. While there are many different variations that also include beetroots and different kinds of addition, it is often very difficult to beat the classic. So, imagine the challenge when city chefs want to serve the sandwich but also give their own touch to it.

Every year, people around the world celebrate sandwiches on November 3, which is observed as Sandwich Day. While the sandwich has different forms and flavours around the world, Mumbaikars love their sandwiches and there is no doubt about that. Interestingly, the classic and the club sandwich are two varieties that are really popular apart from the cheese grilled sandwich. While some absolutely weird variations are known, Mumbai takes inspiration from the classic to make their own.

Taking inspiration from the Mumbai sandwich
Smoke House Deli has been serving sandwiches ever since they opened their doors 12 years ago. Some of the most popular sandwiches on the menu are their avocado sourdough toast, vegetable club sandwich and the Rueben. However, after the Covid-19 pandemic when they reopened, executive chef Rollin Lasrado decided to put on his thinking cap. With the menu already having eight to 10 sandwiches, Lasrado says they decided to include a sandwich that everyone could relate to.

With everybody in Mumbai having different memories of the Mumbai sandwich, they decided to include one with familiar flavours while still being a fresh new take. He shares, "We used the inspiration of the Mumbai sandwich to recreate the SHD Veg Club Sandwich, with layers of Coorgi avocado guac, sweet potatoes and beets, spiced grilled tomatoes, caramelised onions and cheese in whole wheat bread."

While the sweet potatoes are slowly roasted, Lasrado says they are then caramelised on a pan with butter. The beet is thinly sliced and pickled to add a tang and bite. He explains, "The tomatoes are grilled to caramelise the natural sugars and then marinated in a dressing similar to a Virgin Mary sauce which gives the spice and accentuates the natural sweetness of the tomatoes. The cheese and avocado add richness and creaminess to the sandwich with the caramelised onion adding a delicate sweetness and a gentle crunch."

Chutney and flavours
Even at The Pantry, they stick to basics while adding their own twist to it. Executive chef Subhash Shirke explains, "We make sandwiches with vegan cheese, homemade cheese with freshly grilled vegetables and serve them with our signature Mustard recipe. For the sandwich, we use Anna potatoes instead of regular boiled potatoes, along with multigrain sourdough breads." Shirke says the most challenging part of making a Mumbai-style sandwich is getting the chutney right. "So, we make Bhavnagari pesto as a substitute for green local chutney, and this has really worked well for us," he adds.

While Shirke has innovated with the classic coriander chutney inspired by the Mumbai sandwich, chef Urvika Kanoi, who is the founder and chef at Café Duco in Bandra has made a smooth creamy pesto out of coriander itself for her version of the Bombay sandwich called the Big Fat Duco. "We have a coriander pesto, which is very similar to tikhi hari chutney that goes in a general sandwich. There are different textures of vegetables - we have them raw, pickled, and even cooked, just to give you different textures and crunches like the original sandwich with the potato and the crunchy beetroot." Currently, she has as many as eight different sandwiches on the menu. Interestingly, the city chef says that even though they are a Latin American café, The grill cheese sandwich and the ham & cheese Cubano are some of the most popular varieties apart from the Big Fat Duco.

Giving full credit to the sandwichwallahs on the street, Kanoi says people in Mumbai really know their sandwiches, so the most challenging part for her is coming to creating something that people would enjoy every day or something that they wouldn't mind going back to. She explains, "The challenging aspect is just to make them (the diner) understand that our sandwiches are just as good as those on the street, and of course, offer them a variety something that keeps them interested in coming back."

Breaking bread
It is probably why apart from making a pesto, since the sandwich is a personal favourite of Kanoi, she has followed a particular approach for sandwiches at the café. She explains, "We just stuck to the skeleton of the sandwich and changed pretty much a lot of it in terms of the bread. We have actually kept the same buttery white bread but put a brioche instead."

Chef Parikshit Joshi at Someplace Else, has taken the liberty to make two unique versions. Interestingly, while he has played around with the flavours and form of the dish, he has also used different kinds of breads. While the first one is an Avocado and Cream Cheese Crostini, which is his version of the much-loved open toast sandwich in Mumbai, the other version has slow-roasted tomatoes, Bocconcini cheese and mushroom between two slices of herby focaccia.

Incidentally, the former variation is one of the most popular sandwiches and is often ordered. He explains, "The Avocado and Cream cheese crostini has cream cheese mixed with orange zest, which is spread on the toasted bread, then topped with a generous amount of homemade guacamole, drizzle of sweet chilli and purple potato dust. So, the crispy bread with juicy guacamole makes a super combo." Interestingly, they have previously had a Croque Monsieur and the classic BLT, but the Mumbai-inspired sandwiches have been an instant hit.

Interestingly, while it is chutney for Shirke and Kanoi, it is more than that for Joshi. The city chef explains, "The most challenging aspect of working with sandwiches is firstly the flavour profile. The Mumbai palate is inclined towards spicy and chatpata flavours. They also don't like their sandwich to be dry. It should be nicely moist and there should be some kind of dip and sauce to go with the sandwich. So that needs to be balanced along with bread and filling."

Taking the healthy route
At Seeds of Life in Bandra, founder Mohit Bulchandani takes inspiration from the classic Mumbai sandwich but wanted to provide a nutritious substitute for the traditional option. He shares, "In order to promote the idea of wholesome fast food, we wanted to offer a variety of sandwich options to suit different palates and dietary needs." At the restaurant, they serve the Harvest Sandwich, which he says is really popular.

It is an inclination of how much people are moving towards options that consciously indicate their preferences. "People are more willing to try out new and creative sandwich options as they become more health-conscious and seek out variety in their diets. Over time, there has been a steady rise in the demand for sandwich options that are both diversified and healthier," adds Bulchandani about the shifting trend.

Like Bulchandani, even Veeraj Shenoy, chief operating officer of F&B at Imagicaa, which is by the Malpani Group, says that the influx of the healthy eating trend has given the opportunity for them at the theme park to explore more sandwiches with brown breads and multigrain breads than before.
He explains, "The taste and flavour enhancement of sandwiches at Imagicaa has been meticulously ideated and crafted such that even with addition of liquid cheese and peri-peri; the original taste of the sandwich is well-maintained. Moreover, the build of the sandwich varies with spicy potatoes or regular potatoes while the preparation can be varied as toasted or grilled."

In fact, Shenoy says sandwiches have been added to the menu at the theme park purposefully for one reason only. "The Food and Beverage (F&B) model in theme parks is unique and are designed to accommodate the fast-paced nature of a park visit whilst providing convenient and quick dining options to maximise visitors's time on rides and attractions. The convenience and quick-service factor are the reason sandwiches are touted as the best fit for combos in the grab-n-go menu at Imagicaa. Additionally, its nature of being both kid and adult-friendly really elevates the proposition of this product specifically for theme park dining."

Even after serving sandwiches at the theme park till now, Shenoy says a challenge exists, and that is to make sandwiches that not only appeal to a wide audience but also accommodates the vast diversity of taste preferences. With the nature of the sandwich and its freshness, there is also the need for a faster turnaround time with the help of time management and quick service that poses a challenge but at the same time reminds us how the Mumbai sandwichwallah manages to pull it off every day with little or no help.