Glass skin goals: What makes the Korean skin care routine different and why are Indians attracted to it?

The impact of Hallyu (the Korean wave) has not only influenced fashion and entertainment choices of K-drama enthusiasts and K-poppers in India, but also their skin care choices. The adoration for Korean idols and their dreamy flawless looks have made Indians inquisitive about Korean skin care methods, which has in turn boosted the demand for K-beauty products.

Prableen Kaur, a digital content creator who regularly discusses skin positivity through her Instagram videos, says, "The growing popularity of Korean skin products on social media and glass skin aesthetics inspired me to incorporate K-products actively in my daily skin care regime, which I feel have delivered great results on my skin." Kaur, who has been using Korean skin care products for two years, believes that the dewy, healthy and nourished texture of the skin of the Korean people is the most influential thing that has drawn more people towards the Korean regime.

From sheet masks to serums and anti-ageing creams, the Indian skin care market is witnessing a growth in the number of brands and e-stores selling Korean skin care products. Korean beauty brands have occupied a major slice of the Indian skin care market, which is expected to grow to 20 billion US dollars by 2025 at 25 percent CAGR, as per estimates by market research agency Euromonitor.

According to data provided by the Korean Cultural Centre India in Delhi, sales of K-beauty product products from Pilgrim, a local beauty product company, doubled in 2021 as compared to 2020, and about 60 percent of total sales can be credited to those in the age group of 25 to 35 years. Around 30 percent of total sales occurred in the north eastern region of India, especially in Guwahati. According to a 2021 survey by Rakuten Insight, about 39 percent of Indian respondents who were women stated that their skin care routine consisted of fewer than 25 percent of K-beauty products and about three percent of respondents said that all their skin care products were from Korean brands.

As many Indians seek skin care treatment for acne and resulting scars which increase skin irritation, Toina Kinimi, aesthetician and founder of Beauty Barn India, a Nagaland based Korean beauty brand, says there's always a demand for products that help in blemish control, thereby brightening and providing a glowing effect.

"In recent times we are also noticing an increase in the number of people who are seeking skin care knowledge and awareness through experts. They have queries and demands for products to maintain skin barrier health and achieve long-term skin goals," adds Kinimi.

What makes the Korean skin care regime different?

Experts emphasise on the unique formulations and creative product packaging as factors that distinguish the Korean skin care regime from other practices in India. In addition to composition and market placements, Kinimi explains, the most important distinctive aspect lies in the overall approach of a Korean skin care routine, which is aimed at fixing the root cause of skin problems and nourishing it from within.

"Rather than quick fixes, the Korean philosophy also believes in prioritising skin care before issues arise. Korean skin care thus adopts a gentler approach and focuses on soothing, repairing and nourishing the skin, making sure it always stays properly hydrated. Korean skin care is also more than a routine, integral to lifestyle and designed for long-term results," she adds.

Tanushree Ghosh, a lifestyle blogger, highlights that the composition -- including ingredients from exotic sources such as bullfrog skin, mussels and clams, slime of snail, among others -- is new to Indian audiences, making it appealing to them. Effective results from this routine further add to the demand for Korean products, though there are external factors such as weather, pollution levels and lifestyle, which impact the skin type.

Is it suitable for Indian skin?

The suitability of Korean skin care products for Indian skin is a common concern among many. However, skin care experts say these products are highly effective on Indian skin, as long as one chooses the right product suitable to specific skin types and conditions. Following a consistent routine is the key for achieving best results.

"Korean skin care focuses on the science of skin care and treating skin concerns from the root of the issue. They focus on good formulations that work effectively not only to treat the skin issue but also to maintain healthy skin. Just make sure to pick the right products," says Kinimi.

Experts also highlight that the skin care routine followed by women is applicable and beneficial for men too and that there is no separate skin care routine as such.

Digital content creator, Prableen Kaur. Image courtesy: Prableen Kaur

"Men have as many questions about skin care as women. So, when we share skin care advice, it is applicable to both men and women. The same theory applies to Indian skin type. What is mainly taken into consideration is your skin type, your skin concerns and the goals you want to achieve," adds Kaur.

Steps of a Korean skin care routine

While a three-step skin care routine, including a cleanser, toner and a moisturiser, is common knowledge to many of us, a Korean skin care routine is comparatively longer and detailed with a minimum of 10 steps. Koreans strictly use the products in the right order and follow multiple steps on a daily basis. These steps essentially include double cleansing, scrubbing, exfoliating and toning incorporating essences or serums, sheet masks and under eye cream.

"Moreover Korean skin care regime has been developed to treat the skin in such a way that it is completely bare and is ready to breathe through the pores keeping it hydrated at the same time," says Ghosh.

Kinimi lists out the 10 fundamental steps of a Korean skin care routine:

1. Oil-based cleanser: It helps in removing makeup, water-resistant products, excess sebum and environmental impurities.

2. Water-based cleanser: It is used to remove rest of the impurities on the skin. Korean water cleansers are popular for being low pH balanced and for consisting of non-stripping formulas.

3. Exfoliating: Exfoliators can be physical or chemical. Both help in removing dead skin cells and increase cell turnover.

4. Toner/Mist: A toner resets and balances the natural moisture of the skin and prepares it for the following skin care steps.

5. Essence: These are usually watery in texture and help deliver more active ingredients deep into the skin.

6. Serum/Ampoule: Treatments with higher concentration of essential ingredients to target specific concerns.

7. Eye cream: Maintain and prevent premature ageing, dark circles, and depuff under-eye bags.

8. Sheetmask/Washoff: Instant quick fix at home which hydrates and moisturises the skin giving a glowing finish.

9. Moisturiser: The final step to seal and prevent products from evaporating and to maintain skin barrier.

10. Sun Protection Factor (SPF): To protect the skin from harmful UV Rays and prevent premature ageing.

From minimalism to natural extracts

Skin minimalism, which simply means using the least number of products to maintain a sustainable and economical skin care routine, is an emerging skin care trend. According to Kinimi, it is also about not using too many products together at one go and one way to go about it is understanding and educating oneself so we don't become victims of trends and end up using too many products that our skin doesn't require. With minimal methods, the focus will be on repairing and strengthening the skin barrier as a healthy skin barrier forms the base for a glowing skin and heals faster in case of conditions that might harm the skin texture.

According to Kaur, in 2022 more people would be inclined towards a skin care routine that nourishes the skin and brings in a dewy look. Hydrating products like serums, essential facial oils, ampoules and moisturisers with plant based ingredients native to Korea, will be in demand as they are effective on Indian skin as well.

Some of the ingredients, known to be highly effective in delivering skin care results and which have found popularity in recent times are snail mucin, ginseng, mugwort, centella asiatica, rice, licorice root extract, and propolis.

"It is a continuous process of exploration and experimentation to figure out what can add to the enhancement of the quality of skin. Since 2021, Korean skin care has focused on enhancing the protective layer of skin. Using diverse ingredients extracted from nature will be prioritised," says Ghosh.

You can read the fourth part of our Korean wave series here:

How young Indians are flexing their skills through K-pop dance and music covers