Kiss Day 2024: Why lip balms are a skincare must-have according to dermatologists

The potential of lip balms remains largely unknown to many. Some consider those applying lip balm pretentious, or ‘extra'. The judgements are far worse for men who keep this little lip tool in their pocket. For those who call lip balm unnecessary, it is time to reconsider what they miss out on.

On Kiss Day 2024, Mid-day Online spoke to experts who highlight how lip balms work on the lips and the multiple benefits they offer.

"Once a simple necessity, lip balm has become a skincare must-have. Recognition of its importance emerged in the mid-20th century, with products like ChapStick debuting in the 1880s. In the 1960s and 1970s, skincare enthusiasts began appreciating its transformative benefits as beauty routines expanded. Lips, often overlooked, demanded attention, shifting lip balm from an extra to a vital skincare component," says Dr Dinyar Workingboxwalla, skin guru, co-founder, of Beauty by BiE.

Interestingly, Dr Priya Puja, consulting dermatologist at Kaya Skin Clinic says, "Usage of lip balms as part of skincare routine is not a recent trend. The usage dates back to 40 BC, during the ancient Egyptian era, when natural oils, animal fat or beeswax were used to treat dry and chapped lips. Notably, the Egyptian Queen, Cleopatra, also used lip-protecting agents which in today's world is available as lip balm."

"Lip balms are like superheroes for your lips, armed with extra goodies like oils and vitamins. They're tailor-made for delicate lip skin," adds Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetic physician and founder of ISAAC Luxe (International Skin and Anti-Aging Centre).

What goes into making lip balms?

In the world of skincare, lip balms are crucial to providing effective and lasting moisture for our delicate lips.

Gupta tells us that lip balms are crafted with a blend of nourishing ingredients like beeswax, shea butter, coconut oil, and vitamin E. This concoction works wonders, moisturising, soothing, and creating a protective layer on your lips.

Workingboxwalla says, "I believe it's essential to understand the key ingredients that make lip balms so beneficial. Typically, lip balms consist of a combination of emollients, occlusives, and humectants."

1. Emollients such as shea butter and cocoa butter, play a vital role in softening and smoothing the lips. These natural fats create a protective layer, preventing moisture loss and keeping the lips supple.

2. Occlusives like beeswax, candelilla wax or petrolatum, act as a barrier on the lips, sealing in moisture and shielding them from external elements. This helps in preventing chapping and maintaining hydration levels.

3. Humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, attract and retain moisture, ensuring that your lips stay moisturised throughout the day. These ingredients work synergistically to combat dryness and promote overall lip health.

4. Vitamin E, an antioxidant powerhouse, that combats free radical damage, keeps the lips healthy and resilient.

5. SPF or sun protection factor is crucial, especially for lips. Look for lip balms with SPF 15 or higher, particularly if you spend time outdoors.

6. Flavour and fragrance make lip balms more appealing. Choose natural options if you have sensitive skin as synthetic fragrances can sometimes irritate.

How do lip balms help lips stay healthy?

Lip balm functions as a multi-faceted solution designed to address the unique needs of the delicate skin on our lips. They work on retaining moisture for the lips. Emollients, such as shea butter and cocoa butter, soften and smoothen the lips, while humectants like glycerin attract and retain moisture, preventing dehydration.

Further, lip balms work as a protective barrier. Occlusive agents, like beeswax or petrolatum, form a protective barrier on the lips that locks in moisture, shielding the lips from harsh environmental factors that cause dryness and chapping.

Besides this, using lip balms also helps prevent water loss. Lip balms help to maintain the natural moisture balance of the lips. This is crucial in preventing dryness and maintaining optimal lip health.

Further, a lip balm also helps in softening and smoothening lip texture, promoting a more comfortable feel.

"Some lip balms are enriched with vitamins and antioxidants, providing additional nourishment and supporting the repair of damaged skin on the lips. Additionally, lip balms come in various formulations, including tinted options and those with different flavours. This versatility allows users to personalise their lip care routine according to preferences and style," adds Workingboxwalla.

Lip balms can ideally be applied every two to three hours or depending on the dryness of the lips. For deeper care, experts also advise applying a lip-care product before bed to ensure overnight protection and hydration.

Which is better - lip balms or petroleum jelly?
Although the sole purpose of both these lip products is to keep the lips soft and moist, Gupta states that when it comes to the optimal health of one's lips, lip balms often steal the show. She says, "While both have their own merits to offer, a lip balm ensures more comprehensive and personalised care."

Puja elucidates, "Petroleum jelly is one of the oldest formulations used for lip protection. It is an occlusive agent which can form a layer on the skin preventing any loss of water from the skin and hence seals the moisture in the lips. It has the benefits of easy availability, affordability and good efficacy but cannot restore moisture if it is already lost which is the case in dry and chapped lips."

"Lip balms on the other hand," she adds, "contain humectants which are agents that can draw water from the air into the lips and hence possess the capability to restore the moisture in dry lips. Lip balms can also have a combination of humectants and mild occlusive agents which makes them a better choice to treat dry and chapped lips. Another reason to choose a lip balm over petroleum jelly is the increasing acceptance of vegan products or products based on non-animal origin over those of animal origin."

How to pick the right stick for yourself in a heavily saturated market?

There is no one type of lip balm available in the market that is made for all. Just like other cosmetic products, a lip balm too has multiple variations - tinted, flavoured, vegan, medicated, masks and more.

With so many options available, brands always trap us in a pickle leaving us uncertain of which product to opt for.

Puja attempts to clearly distinguish key types of lip-care products:

Lip oil hydrators - These are lighter versions of lip balms and contain natural oils that ensure hydration to the lips. A lip oil hydrator makes lips look plumper and due to lighter texture can have deeper skin penetration and hence provide good healing

Lip sleeping mask - Masks can be worn over longer hours providing prolonged contact with the skin and offering an opportunity for healing chapped or cracked lips. A lip sleeping mask can be used if lips are chapped and extremely dry.

Lip plumper - The new entrants in the lip care category are lip plumpers. These contain humectants like hyaluronic acid which have the property of retaining moisture and hence make the lips look plumper. Other ingredients used are oils which due to the property of light reflection make the lip look shiny and hence plump. Some ingredients like caffeine, cinnamon oil and peppermint oil due to their irritant property leads to increased blood flow to the skin and hence cause them to look plumper.

Commenting on the flavours and tint-infused lip balms, Workingboxwalla says, "In my opinion, the introduction of flavoured and tinted lip balms, in the realm of lip care, has indeed added an element of personalization and fun to the routine."

Flavoured lip balms provide a pleasant experience during application. The aromatic essence can elevate the user's mood, making lip care a satisfying ritual. Workingboxwalla states, "The addition of flavours does not compromise the efficacy of the lip balm. Quality formulations maintain their primary function of moisturising and protecting the lips while incorporating a delightful touch."

Similarly, tint-infused balms offer a subtle colour, enhancing the natural appearance of the lips. This can be particularly appealing for those who prefer a light, everyday makeup look.

Tinted lip balms also provide the usual benefits of hydration and protection. This dual-purpose aspect makes them a versatile addition to one's beauty arsenal.

This said, "It is crucial to scrutinise the ingredient list of flavoured and tinted lip balms. Opting for formulations that prioritise natural and skin-friendly ingredients ensures that the lip balm continues to contribute positively to lip health. The choice to use flavoured or tinted lip balms ultimately depends on individual preferences. Those who enjoy the added sensory experience and aesthetic appeal may find these variations more enjoyable," adds Workingboxwalla.

Why you MUST buy lip balms with SPF?

Lips, unlike any other part of the skin, lips have a thin layer making them more susceptible to sun damage. This, in worst cases, increases the risk of cancer as well.

"Lips are vulnerable to UV damage, and SPF in lip balms acts as a shield, warding off sunburn and premature ageing. Hence, buying a lip balm which has SPF is a wise choice to make," says Gupta.

She adds, that people who spend maximum time outside under the sun should opt for a lip balm with SPF protection.

How to make lip balms at home?

There are a myriad of natural lip balm recipes that can be easily prepared in the comfort of your home and freedom of personal preferences. Home-made lip balms allow you to take charge and create an exclusive formula catering to your needs.

Workingboxwalla shares a few recipes you can try at home:

DIY mint and chocolate lip balm recipe:

Ingredients:

Cocoa powder - 1 tsp
Coconut oil - 2 tbsp
White beeswax pellets - 2 tsp
Peppermint oil - 4-5 drops

Method:

1. Melt the beeswax pellets in a boiler on a stove.
2. Once they have melted, mix cocoa powder, and a few drops of peppermint oil and stir well.
3. Allow the heat to evaporate, once cool transfer the concoction to a jar.
4. Once it has cooled completely, put it in a refrigerator and allow it to harden.

DIY strawberry lip balm:

Ingredients:

Shea butter - 1 tbsp
Coconut oil - 2 tbsp
Orange essential oil - 2-3 drops
Beeswax - 1 tbsp

Method:

1. Put the shea butter and beeswax in a cup and melt it on a low flame.
2. Mix the coconut oil to the mix and allow the heat to evaporate.
3. Once the former mixture has melted, add in some drops of orange essential oil.
4. Stir the concoction well and transfer it to a jar.
5. Allow it to cool for some time. Your berrylicious strawberry lip balm is ready.

DIY Vaseline lip balm:

Ingredients:

1. Vaseline (or any petroleum jelly) - 1 1/2 tbsp
2. Beetroot juice - 1/2 tbsp
3. Honey - 1/2 tbsp

Method:

1. Mix a little bit of Vaseline and honey in a container.
2. Add beetroot juice to the mix. Don't stir the ingredients together.
3. Put the container in the microwave for about thirty seconds.
4. After removing it from the microwave, stir it together, transfer it into a tin, and let it set for thirty minutes.
5. After it cools down completely, refrigerate it and use when required.