Take notes: Dermatologists and experts dish out tips to pick the right skincare products

The beauty market, especially for skincare products, is saturated with innumerable brands - each claiming to be skin-friendly. Even lip balms today come with SPF. Who knows how true these claims are and whether they are effective or not?

Have you ever thought of turning around skincare products to read their labels before trusting them for your face and body application? Skincare product label literacy is just as important as reading food labels to ensure the good health of your skin.

Besides, given that beauty brands fall under the category of luxury sector, most of the brands selling skincare products often sell them at premium prices. One simple branded lip balm or moisturising cream costs somewhere between Rs 600 to Rs 1,000. This makes it paramount for all skincare enthusiasts to learn how to read skincare product labels to truly understand if what they are paying for is worth the money or not.

"In the current market, there is a flood of cosmetics claiming to be natural. However, when it comes to skincare products, discerning their effectiveness is
crucial," says Dr Stuti Khare Shukla, dermatologist, founder, Elements of Aesthetics, FDA-Approved Hair Growth Booster.

"Brand selection for skin care products is highly personal and subjective and depends on individual skin needs. Understanding the components of skincare products is essential for ensuring their appropriateness and safety for individual skin needs. It is a key step in identifying ingredients that might be allergenic or potentially harmful," adds Dr Chytra V Anand, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and Indian beauty guru.

Learning to read skincare product labels
Besides speaking to skincare experts, Mid-day Online also roped in two skincare brands. Rajat Mathur, spokesperson, deputy general manager, The Body Shop India says, "Selecting skincare products necessitates a nuanced consideration of efficacy, ethical standards, and sustainability. Optimal choices encompass products crafted from responsibly sourced, natural ingredients, ensuring their alignment with individualised skin requirements while concurrently contributing to wider environmental preservation. Certifications, such as those attesting to vegan and cruelty-free standards, offer tangible evidence of a brand's ethical commitment."

Expanding on this, Nidhi Govil, founder, Orive Organics, says, "Reading skincare product labels is crucial for making informed choices. While marketing often emphasises a product's positive aspects on the front label, the detailed ingredient list reveals the complete picture. Many harmful components may be concealed beneath attractive claims. By scrutinising labels, consumers can avoid deceptive marketing tactics, make choices aligned with their skin needs, and ensure the products they use contribute positively to their skincare routine."

"Invest in products that align with your specific skin requirements. Labels indicating whether a product is non-comedogenic, suitable for sensitive skin, or has been tested by dermatologists are particularly valuable for those with specific skin sensitivities," says Anand.

Shukla further adds, "DGCI and CDSU adherence, along with QR codes, add authenticity and genuineness to labelled products. Thus, comprehensive label scrutiny aids in making informed skincare choices."

Those with sensitive skin can opt for fragrance-free and hypoallergenic options to minimise irritation. Individuals with dry skin benefit from products containing hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, while those with oily skin should seek oil-free formulations.

Here are a few ways to go about reading the labels of skincare products as suggested by the experts.

1. Check for certifications: Prioritise products with reputable certifications like vegan, cruelty-free, or environmental standards. Given the industry's loose use of the term ‘sustainable,' seeking certifications from third-party organisations like The Vegan Society and B Corporation provides consumers with robust assurance. These certifications evaluate a brand's social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability, ensuring a genuine commitment to sustainability.

2. Educate yourself: Familiarise yourself with common skincare ingredients, understanding their benefits and potential drawbacks. This knowledge empowers consumers to make informed choices tailored to their skin needs.

3. Allergen identification: Scrutinise labels for potential allergens or irritants that may adversely affect your skin. Awareness of personal sensitivities is crucial for a positive skincare experience.

4. Check the order of ingredients:
Prioritise the top five ingredients listed, as they constitute the bulk of the product. Seek active components tailored to your skincare goals and be cautious about long, complex chemical names that might be harsh irritants.

According to Anand, it is important to be cautious of products containing high quantities of alcohol, artificial fragrances, or specific parabens. "Stay informed about ingredients flagged by health oversight organisations. Steer clear of sulphates (like SLS/SLES), certain alcohols (such as denatured alcohol), formaldehyde, phthalates, and some synthetic fragrances for sensitive skin types. These can cause skin irritation, and dryness, or have associated health concerns."

Safety of using chemical-based skincare products
Chemical ingredients aren't inherently negative; many are crucial for the stability and efficacy of skincare products, Anand clarifies. "Everything is made of chemicals when you break it down. Conversely, ‘natural' or ‘vegan' labels do not automatically guarantee skin safety. It's about understanding the right mix of ingredients that suits your skin."

Digging deep, Ovil states, "The effectiveness of chemical-based skincare products can broadly be classified into safe synthetics and harmful chemicals. Not all chemicals are detrimental. For instance, hyaluronic acid is a beneficial synthetic compound. The key is understanding the difference between safe synthetics and toxic chemicals, such as parabens. Safe synthetics can enhance skincare, offering benefits without harm. Therefore, while a product may be chemical-based, the critical factor lies in discerning the specific chemicals involved. Prioritise products with safe synthetics, avoid toxic chemicals, and ensure a balanced approach to skincare that prioritises both safety and efficacy."

Safety of ‘natural', ‘vegan', and ‘ayurvedic' products
Investing in natural products can offer multifaceted benefits. These products often use ingredients derived from plants and herbs, which are known for their healing and nourishing properties. They contain fewer synthetic chemicals, reducing exposure to potential irritants. Natural ingredients are known for their holistic benefits, catering not only to specific skin concerns but also contributing to overall well-being.

However, Shukla alerts, "Ayurveda and natural products, along with pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, derive herbs for refined results. Yet, not all-natural elements are universally beneficial, as the right formulation is essential for effective skincare."

She adds, "It is imperative not to fall into the trap of assuming that all-natural products will work for everyone. In some cases, active conditions may necessitate the inclusion of modern medicine. Consulting a dermatologist is crucial for optimal issue resolution."

According to Mathur, verifying claims of cruelty-free, vegan, or natural status involves looking for recognised certifications, such as The Vegan Society's Vegan Trademark. Independent audits and a brand's historical stance on ethical practices also serve as indicators of authenticity.

Govil further states, "Customer reviews and testimonials can also provide insights into a product's efficacy and authenticity. By staying informed and doing thorough research, consumers can make informed choices, supporting brands genuinely committed to ethical and natural skincare."

Skincare product recommendations
Brand selection is highly personal and subjective and depends on individual skin needs. However, Anand says, "Opting for some universally acknowledged brands can help. It's crucial to choose based on your unique skin type and concerns."

You can also continue using products that have been working best for you for years if you fret about experimenting with new brands and their products. If you wish to, it is always a good idea to ask your friends and family which skincare brand they use and trust. Further, it is highly advisable to consult a dermatologist for personalised skincare brand recommendations based on your skin requirements.

Disclaimer: This information does not replace professional medical advice. Consult a qualified specialist for personalised guidance.