25 July,2011 06:53 AM IST | | Fiona Fernandez
Advertising professional and restaurateur Bhavesh Koli has done the city's seafood lovers a big favour: he has opened the first Koli restaurant in the Mumbai-Thane belt. Mi Hi Koli, says Bhavesh, is a tribute to his community
It's a matter of surprise that the cuisine of the city's oldest original inhabitants didn't find a spot on the city's culinary map until April 2011. Perhaps the signs around should have played forecaster. The Koli community's presence in the island city has seen a marked fall since the glory days when they represented one of the largest communities on Mumbai's seven islands. Today, sadly, the population remains confined to the koliwadas (fishing villages) that dot the city's coastline, where fishing remains their chief source of income. The educated section of the community has moved on to higher paying jobs. For most of the city's population, their culture, food, history and traditions remain an unknown quantity.u00a0
The piece de resistance at Mi Hi Koli, Pomfret Fry. PICS/ DATTA KUMBHAR
Just like homeu00a0
It is precisely this desire to resurrect the community's roots that pushed advertising professional Bhavesh Koli to open the first Koli cuisine restaurant in the Mumbai-Thane region.
"My family belongs to the Chendani Koliwada in Thane. Our original home, with Mangalore-tiled roofing is still around. I'm a foodie and whenever I tasted seafood in Mumbai's restaurants I missed our authentic Koli food, which is distinctly different from Malwani and other coastal cuisines," Bhavesh recalls, when we chat with him after our meal.
In April this year, he opened his dream project -- Mi Hi Koli (Marathi for 'I am a Koli') in Thane West.
Fishy business
The bold, Devnagiri-scripted signage helped us spot the restaurant on an otherwise poorly lit road. Judging by the waiting crowds outside his restaurant the Wednesday night we dropped by, it's obvious that the suburb has warmed to the cuisine.
After a 15-minute wait, we were led into a 20-seater space, complete with ambient lighting and upturned fishing baskets as props on the pastel walls. A chopper knife (blunted, we hope!), used by Kolis to slice fish alternated as the door handle. Settling into our leather sofa-like seats, we ordered for a round of refreshing Solkadi (Rs 25) and Halwa (Black Pomfret) Curry (Rs 130), as strains of Koli folk songs filled the air. Bhakari (Rs 15, each) was chosen as our accompanying locally-done bread.
"Every dish on the menu is straight out of my home and is freshly prepared," says Bhavesh pointing to the busy kitchen. "My wife and aunt oversee every aspect of the restaurant's kitchen. After all, we have only just opened and cannot compromise on authenticity."
When our food arrives, we couldn't help but taste the difference. Bhavesh filled in the blanks: "Malwani cuisine uses the bigger, red chilli. We prefer the green chilli."
Riotous, fiery moment number 1. The fresh black pomfret had nicely soaked up the lightly done gravy.
Families, septuagenarian folk, young couples -- the restaurant attracts all kinds of seafood lovers. And limited elbow room doesn't appear to be a deterent.
Our main course saw the piece de resistance: Prawns Masala (Rs 170) run away with the honours.
The (White) Pomfret Fry (Rs 155) didn't do too badly, while the Steam Rice (Rs 80) played perfect foil to proceedings. The fish had us in seafood paradise: crumb-fried to perfection with a mild lacing of ground spices.
As if to extend the nirvana-like state of mind, the piping hot prawn dish was wiped clean in a matter of minutes.
The silent, steely determination with which we devoured the spread made Bhavesh and his uncle (his man Friday) enquire if there was a problem with the food!
As we left, delighted with our authentic seafood experience, we hoped that fellow Kolis would take a cue from Bhavesh to ensure that the rest of the city enjoy and keep alive this truly authentic Mumbai cuisine. Watch this space.
At 2, Aram Baug, Veer Savarkar Road, Thane (W).u00a0
Call 9769635644
Mi Hi Koli didn't know we were there. THE GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for meals.
