Chopsticks pe charcha

Fried chicken wontons

FOOD: PALATABLE
PACKAGING: NEAT
SERVICE: RESPONSIVE
COST POCKET: FRIENDLY
VERDICT: 1/4

Experts wondering why people have settled for and love desi Chinese, an oxymoron brought to life by the exigencies of the demand-supply nature of the food industry, need to consider a few things before they let judgments roll off the canon of their tongues. Firstly, such a meal almost never pinches the pocket, and secondly, you can seldom go wrong with it. So, the opening of yet another Chindian delivery joint, among the trillions that have come to exist, calls for a taste test, at least.

Situated in Santacruz West, Sichuan Pepper House has fast become popular in the short five months of its existence. On a day when it's pouring and most Mumbaikars are reconsidering their weekend plans, this takeaway doesn't fail to - as intended - deliver.

Veg spring rolls

It takes a while (an hour and 10 minutes), but despite the delay and the added hour after which the food is finally consumed, the fried chicken wontons (Rs 290), manage to remain crispy. Of course, it's no pork wontons, but the chicken, untraditionally stuffed with a meatball-like filling instead of a well-cooked mince, is savoury. It would have been nice if they had provided a wedge of lime, because a good wonton is always best enjoyed with a discerning squeeze.

The veg spring roll (Rs 240) has a nice, fulsome blanket and the filling is juicy, piquant and spicy. Made with carrots and cabbage, which have the pleasant acidity of a pickled condiment (perhaps it was that), this relish adds body and crunch to the otherwise greasy coating.

Chicken burnt garlic fried and special chicken in sichuan sauce

The chicken barbecue (Rs 290) has supple meat, and a peppery sauce, which with its lingering spiciness brought in by the finely chopped red chillies, helps bind the dish together. It tasted good but could have used a better side-kick, something that would neutralise the brine from the soy, the kick from the pepper and the hotness from the chillies like, chunks of fresh scallion or blanched broccoli rather than the deadbeat pieces of capsicum it came with. The sauce, too, had it been slightly less runny, would have made for a delicious and denser coating on the meat, and while it tastes pretty good, it's not barbecue from any angle.

Now, done with the appetisers, let's move the mains, beginning with the chicken burnt garlic rice (Rs 240), which is indicated as a favourite on the delivery app. It is indeed a good recommendation and features crunchy and flavourful bits of garlic that are not flaky. And though the rice, on the whole, is palatable the chicken in it tastes slightly bland. But this is a common phenomenon with mid-level and pocket-friendly eateries - no one ever cares about flavouring the meat in the rice, which could uplift it manifold.

Chicken Barbecue

The special chicken in Sichuan sauce (Rs 280) is a little like that kid in class who has potential but never tops. So, it's tasty, but has this vinegary spiciness, you know, like that almost-acrid smell of chillies? Brownie points to the eatery for throwing in broccoli, button mushrooms and pok choy. While no manna from heaven, the portions, pricing and overall taste is good, and it is only possible to enjoy this stuff if you allow yourself to make a concession with a little help from the popular Mumbai phrase - itna paisa mein itnaich milega.

At Sichuan Pepper House, House 9, 1st Floor, Gaothan Lane 2, Santacruz West.
Time 12 pm to 4 pm; 7 pm to 1 am
Call 7506670666

4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE

Sichuan Pepper House didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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