Creatures of the night

The way Mumbai eats is slowly, but seismically, changing - 14-dish-long menus, chef-oriented restaurants and new and unheard of ingredients are all a manifestation of this larger shift. And it is gradually arming restaurateurs and chefs with the confidence to play around with different formats and most importantly, take risks. The ones that have opened in the last six months are showcasing some facets of this new mettle, and three of them have taken a leap of faith in keeping their establishments open for just one half of the day. Four owners of the city's dinner-only eateries share the logistical and economic narratives behind their spaces.

Dine under the moon
Arbab is the latest addition to the slew of Mediterranean openings in Mumbai's F&B space. Speaking about why they open post 6 pm, co-owner Faiz Kadawalla tells us, "Our restaurant is modelled around the cosy and colourful cafés you would typically find on the streets of Lebanon or Beirut. Since we're an open-air eatery and keeping in mind Mumbai's weather, it made more sense to do dinner only. Plus, we serve Middle-Eastern dishes like kebabs and shawarmas, which people enjoy in the evenings."

At Arbab, Linking Road, Bandra West.
Time 7 pm to 1 am
Call 26410000

The logic behind a lounge
A two-month old lounge in Oshiwara replaced the otherwise buzzing Bar Stock Exchange almost as if it were an overnight change. Co-owner Anish Bhadech says the idea was not just to come up with a high-energy bar, but to also be the kind of space that could double up as a neighbourhood hangout. "There are already plenty of restaurants in the city. We called it February 30 because like the date, the experience we hope to provide doesn't exist in too many places," he shares. Designed to be a lounge, the majority of Bhadech's patrons trickle in post sundown, and so, it made more sense for them to stay open at night alone. "First of all, in India, the afternoon drinking culture isn't very strong. Plus, since we're predominantly a bar, even if I get ten tables during the day, I will still be incurring a loss, because my operational cost - which includes staff, housekeeping, bartenders, electricity and chefs - would be more. I notice people ordering a coffee and spending hours at the cafés around my lounge. It's okay because that's what cafés are for. However, the way that our space has been designed, its vibe is such that it is unlikely people will walk in during the day time." he explains.

At February 30, Oshiwara, Andheri West.
Time 6 pm to 1.30 am
Call 9167021100

A Latin extravaganza
"The idea behind the restaurant was to create a fun and cosy space where people can come and hang out at the end of the day. The aim was to introduce people to Latin American food without being mistaken for a Mexican joint," Ujwala Bhat, owner of the two-month-old eatery The Latin Mess, says. Bhat isn't wrong when she says that Lat-Am food is far from being a go-to here, and so, she's already taking risks by opting for a lesser-known cuisine. "Ours is not a Chinese eatery where I know that the food will sell for sure. So, it just made sense, operationally at least, to open at night. That way we have half the staff, we cut down on electricity costs, and since the space is tiny, we save on rent as well," she elaborates.

At The Latin Mess, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Time 4 pm to 12 am
Call 9136227920

A French alcove in a koliwada
French diner Slink and Bardot has survived the industry as a dinner-only space for five years. Head chef and co-owner Alexis Gielbaum explains, "Reaching the diner can be a little bit of a journey because it's right inside Worli koliwada. There are no big companies or buildings there, so we don't really have a facade. Plus, people will have to be willing to take a cab and make the trip, which didn't seem likely for lunch. Secondly, the menu is complex and the food takes a lot of time."
Slink's ambience, too, is classy and elegant making it perfect for quiet dinners and romantic dates. Gielbaum concurs when he says, "We get a lot of couples and interestingly, many of our patrons have requested that we open for lunch. But it's not viable economically either."

At Slink & Bardot, Thadani House, Worli.
Time 7 pm to 1 am
Call 7045904728

The first timers
Our design vision for Olive when we opened was to have a beautiful, laidback dinner space lit by candlelight. So, we have stayed that way at our first outlet. As we grew and spread across the country, we evolved it as an all-day space depending on those sites and audiences. Over time, we felt there was a niche for cool Sunday brunches so we have started that in Mumbai now.

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