Mumbai Food: Mains good, cocktails could be better at Lower Parel bar

Smoked cigar

As we are about to enter Lilt, a new bar in the Mathuradas Mill Compound, we recall about its predecessor at the location, Summer House Café that had the makings of a good bar that had to shut down too soon on a sour note.

We are brought back to present by the host on roller skates, who takes us to our table after a warm introduction. As he zips away, we take in the décor, which grows on us while we browse through the engaging Asian menu. We instantly take a liking to its stripped-down chic décor. The metal accents on the bare walls, particularly the rotating bottle holders behind the bar grab our attention. Combined with the groovy playlist, the cocktails beckon us, and so we call for the smoked cigar (Rs 595) and tripster (Rs 695).

Tripster

The former comes with a flourish of smoke that adds to the core cinnamon notes of the whiskey cocktail. However, it's watery and doesn't wow us in a sip. Tripster, on the other hand, is a hodgepodge of flavours, none of which hold the drink together. While the menu calls it a long island iced tea with a taste of masala tea, cinnamon overpowers all the spices. In addition, none of the drinks are potent, especially tripster, which one would assume to be a knockout drink with five spirits. We stick to beer (Rs 250 onwards) after this and order the Xiang Portobello with aged balsamic (Rs 350), and kaea-ha (Rs 430) from their small plates section.

kaea-ha

We are not fans of mushro­om dis­hes served at most Asian restaurants, where the in­gredient is treated in a rather step-motherly way. Thankfully, the Po­rtobello mushroom appetiser he­re impresses us in an instant. The hint of tartness from pickled parsley ge­ls well with the deep bittersweet ta­ste of the balsamic it's coated in. Kaea-ha, a mutton seekh kebab has a blink-and-you-miss Thai chilli fla­v­our. But it woos us for its fresh, minty taste with a heavy dose of pine nuts.
The good run continues with the mains: Burmese pot (Rs 550) to which we add some chicken ('100) to make it a complete meal. The delicious, filling bowl tastes good, but is something you would expect from any reasonably good Asian restaurant. Considering its price, the portion is good too.

Satiated, we call for another beer and ponder if we would come back to Lilt, and answer our question with two yeses and a no. No, if they don't strengthen their cocktails soon in a cutthroat location. Yes, for the food and the minimal, roomy interiors we have become a fan of.

Time: 6 pm to 1.30 am
At: Mathuradas Mill Compound, Lower Parel.
Call: 30151269

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