Mumbai Food: Shut Asian joint is back to serve yummy fare in Bandra

Chicken yakitori skewers. Pics/Sayyed Sameer Abedi

We often daydream of the day we'll be clasping onto the foldable armrest of our seat, as an airplane flies us off to a land far, far away. Our only experience of international travel was back in 1995 when we were three years old. We had travelled with our father from Siliguri in West Bengal, to Dhulabari, a small town in Jhapa in Nepal not too far from the Indian border. Right, it doesn't count. Much like our desire to travel, our love for food has only grown over the years - it is, after all, our one-way ticket to the whole wide world.

And so, when we heard, that The Blue, which was veritably one of Mumbai's best Thai joints, (it had bagged the Best New Asian Restaurant accolade at mid-day's The Guide Restaurant Awards, 2018), had shut shop mid-December last year, we reported the shuttering in these pages with a heavy heart. Then, a week later, we found out they were back with a bang in a new avatar, following a dispute with a proprietor that was impersonating as an establishment run by the chef-couple Seefah Ketchaiyo and Karan Bane. Their latest offering on Hill Road has now been christened Seefah.

We had dropped by the 50-seater outlet soon after they opened. With soothing blue walls and homespun decor featuring plush maroon, grey and creamsicle orange seating, Seefah truly embodies the essence of comfortable dining. At the time, our friend, a serial-Phuket visitor, who had accompanied us, had vouched for the authenticity of the Thai red rubies - a street-style dessert made with water chestnut and rose milk. That stayed with us, after a little time had passed, we call for a few dishes to work.

Veg katsu curry

Packed neatly in black plastic containers and sealed tightly with cello tape, the food arrives, along with a hoard of bamboo spoons and forks. Which is just as well, for we invite our colleagues to dig in.

We begin with the miso tofu avocado salad (R450), a lush mix of silky tofu and fleshy avocado diced into cubes and tossed in miso seasoning. We love the generous drizzle of the sesame dressing, and yet couldn't help but wonder if the dish lacked the quintessential briny earthiness of the miso. Perhaps, a little more of the fermented soya bean mixture would have packed in a punch. We like it all the same, and our vegetarian workmate gives it a thumbs up, too.

Miso tofu avocado salad

We move on to the veg katsu curry (R550), spurting some of it out as one colleague mistakes the paneer for chicken. We have a hearty laugh and fiddle with the curry until we both agree that this dish is perhaps not the chef's best. The purée-base is a little lacklustre and sweeter than it should be. And though the panko-crusted paneer has been fried to perfection it gets lost in its muddled curry.

Next, we try the stir-fry prawn in Thai chilli paste (R570), a preparation that is brimming with flavours. The prawn, though shelled, are soft and supple, marrying well with the vibrant chilli paste. The lingering sweet aftertaste is a clever tweak as it provides respite from the heat. We lap it up, quickly.

Stir fry sauce in Thai chilli sauce

But for us, and most of our companions, the star was the chicken yakitori skewers (R400). Pierced with bamboo sticks, the chunky pieces of chicken are coated in a thick and tantalising sauce that comes with a generous dose of soya that adds a delightful saltiness to the snack. We polish off the fare in under 30 minutes that is perhaps the best validation of Katchaiyo's skills. One could even sum it up and leave it at "It's comfort food."

At: Seefah, Hill Road, Bandra West.
Time: 12 pm to 3.15 pm; 7 pm to 11.15 pm
Call: 33716009

Catch up on all the latest Crime, National, International and Hatke news here. Also, download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get the latest updates