Modern Thai, American eatery Tygr to replace Rivers To Oceans

Chilean seabass

Remnants of the theme of the recently shut Rivers to Ocean continue to linger. The space is being spruced up with better lighting and the semi-circular bar's gold rims have given way to a casual and high-energy Thai restaurant - Tygr. "It could also mean Tonight You're Gonna Roar," Massive Restaurant chief, Zorawar Kalra, quips, describing his latest offering to the city as the cheerful sister to Delhi's Bo Tai.

While 80 per cent of the menu is Thai, it also features American-style robata, seabass, pork ribs and steak. "Rivers to Ocean was too premium for a mall and ahead of its time. Sometimes, you have to create a product you believe in. Apple has faced so many failures; you can't always have great results. But that's all behind us now," says Kalra, referring to the seafood restaurant that had been one of 2018's anticipated launches.

Way of the duck

He introduces us to his cocktail magicians Barnaby Ingra and Dino Koletsas from Artesian, London's Bar, who have also designed cocktails for Bo Tai. Koletsas charms us with his stories and a dapper-looking drink, made with edible flowers, a mix of prosecco, aperol and a homemade Campari called Thai amaro, which comes in a circular glass. "All the drinks on the menu are inspired by Thai proverbs and lingo," he tells us. This one is called arm stretcher (Rs 450), a reference to a Thai quote meaning "don't reach for the impossible." The drink has many layers. Undertones of bitter gourd from the Thai amaro marries the mango candy, giving the drink a creamy texture.

Distended chicken

Meanwhile, chef Sahil Singh serves us the first dish, Hokkaido scallop carpaccio (Rs 525). The slices set in a circle surround a sorbet made with rambutan, which is topped with mint. The dish is power-packed and the flavours from ginger and chilli hit our palate, awakening it. The vegetarian version, avocado carpaccio (Rs 475), is finely sliced and topped with fried garlic and sour pops.

Chocolate fudge with wildberry and blueberry sorbet

Our favourite is the Chilean sea bass ceviche (Rs 575). A Peruvian dish with a Thai twist, it makes use of ginger, garlic, red chilli, and fresh coriander, and grilled butterfly prawns that come topped with water chestnut and mushroom in a dense coconut and mushroom paste with the undertones of lemon grass and basil. The lamb massaman curry (Rs 495) is thick with chunks of juicy, sweet and spicy meat. Singh uses his expertise to create a harmony between the ingredients.

(From left) Barnaby Ingram, Dino Koletsas and Zorawar Kalra

We wash it down with a drink called way of the duck (Rs 450), which Kolestas informs us, means jack of all trades in colloquial Thai. This drink, too, has hints of bitter gourd and flirts with the aromas of the pandan leaf. These complexities are held together by guava and gin. The distended chicken (Rs 365) is a beautifully cooked snack.

The chicken is tender and garnished with sesame, soy and lemongrass. For dessert, we pick chocolate fudge with a dollop of wildberry and blueberry sorbet (Rs 350). It's a dense delight topped with a buttery lemon and mango meringue. Tygr is approachable and could possibly be a roaring success.

OPENS: December 10 time 12 pm to 12 am
AT: Level 1, Palladium, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
CALL: 9136921735

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