Sunny side up

Egg roll

FOOD: UNIQUE
AMBIENCE: CLEAN
SERVICE: PROMPT
COST: CHEAP
VERDICT: 1/4

It is the ultimate kitchen essential - the safest meal during the monsoon, the one that never pinches the pocket, that sole component restaurants will serve "your way", and perhaps, the only thing your socially conditioned partner who can't cook can make on short notice, except excuses, of course. Yes, we're talking about egg or anda, which continues to inspire a whole line of take-out and quick-service chains dedicated entirely to it.

Egg samosa

Mumbai is currently teeming with such hole-in-the-wall establishments and Egg Villa Cafe on Sayani Road in Prabhadevi is the newest on the block. Tucked away inconspicuously, this mom-and-pop eatery is more aesthetically appealing than most others of its kind. The facade of the small, open kitchen doubles up as the cash counter, and the paltry space is used up economically through a canteen-like seating arrangement that comprises a table jutting out of one of the walls and four low-lying yellow stools. The lights and a painting of a chef cooking eggs - mimicking the popular memes around Salt Bae, or Nusret Gokce, a Dubai-based chef who became an internet obsession, thanks to his dramatic ways of sprinkling salt - and some textual artwork with notes on the benefits of eating egg, help add character to this tiny joint.

Soda n egg rings

This is praise-worthy, because both character and cleanliness are not given priority in eateries of a similar template. You know, the myriad freakshake, waffle and fries joints that populate Mumbai's food scene today. The two staffers stationed at the outlet are shy, but attentive. They clean the counter often and offer to change your plates, as if you were at some gee-whizz brunch launch in SoBo. It's heartening. The menu, a pamphlet really, offers a range of dishes - starters, omelettes, sandwiches, rolls, samosa and a few rice bowls, too. This is the kind of thing you want to pin to your lazy roommate's door, hoping it'll help their imagination and come in handy when it's their turn to cook next. Though it is likely that they'll use the flyer to bail on you, and pay for the ordered-in meal instead.

Egg pot rice

In such an event, don't forget to try the soda n egg rings (Rs 120), made with onion rings dipped in a batter made with flour, soda and egg. It's a crunchy nibble doused in a masala, possibly peri peri, designed to be enjoyed in this weather along with a hot or cold cuppa. However, the cold coffee (Rs 70) is a tad lacklustre, in that it's too creamy, lacking the density of a highly caffeinated drink. The peri peri fries (Rs 100) are nice, but maybe too hot for those who can't tolerate spice. It's definitely better than the perfunctory side of fries most sandwich/burger joint serve, though.

Cold coffee. Pics/Suman Mahfuz Quazi

A couple of dishes like the egg bhurji cups and fuyunghai omelette that are bound to catch one's attention are unfortunately not available during this visit, but the egg roll (Rs 70) amply makes up for it. It's the kind of go-to snack that mums would prep to satiate their hungry kids. So, it comes with a random mix of things that somehow go well together, like stir fried capsicum and onion, and spicy mayo and ketchup, all rolled into a soft paratha lined with an omelette. The egg samosa (Rs 80) is akin to regular kheema ones, except that the filling comprises a mish-mash of gooey scrambled eggs, cheese and masala. A little less cheese or eggs cooked slightly more, would have helped lift the treat by giving it more texture, but it's yummy all the same. The egg pot rice (Rs 230), is again a homely dish that comes with a spicy rice, a red rasam-like (but thicker) gravy and a choice of boiled or half-fry egg or omelette.

It's a perfect quick-fix for the mid-work meal. But what is most appealing though, is how this eatery manages to stick to its motto of serving pocket-friendly and interesting egg-based dishes, without creating a hoo-ha or distracting patrons with random and irrelevant offerings. It stays true to its name, making it befitting for all, whether it's your lazy roommate, untrained boyfriend or broke and hungry self.

At Egg Villa Cafe, Shop 1, Salamat Mansion, Prabhadevi.
Time 11 am to 11 pm
Call 7666146633

4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE

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