Is that a truffle in my biryani?

Truffle mushroom biryani

When we first heard of the truffle biryani, we pictured a risotto-looking re-imagination of the dish that would be slightly bland and exorbitantly priced. After all, through all the passionate arguments we've witnessed about the biryani having originated in the Mughal courts, in Persia or even tales of how it travelled to Lucknow, Hyderabad or Kolkata, and how it gained and dropped a few ingredients, we didn't quite imagine any sort of a European interlude.

Well, there wasn't one until recently, when Mumbai-based Charcoal Eats launched a truffle biryani as part of their sixth anniversary celebrations that commence today. "I had worked extensively with truffles in my stint with Two One Two - Bar & Grill in Worli. This was in 2011-12 during which time, we were the only ones importing truffle and using it fresh, as part of the Italian menu, to make extravagant pasta, pizzas, and duck liver. However, in the last few years, I've focused more on Indian food, and when we were thinking of unique ways to approach the traditional biryani, I thought, why not experiment with truffle as a flavour, so we used mushrooms and truffle oil," says chef Mikhail Shahani, head of product development at Charcoal Eats.

Truffle tales

Often referred to as the Mozart of mushrooms, the truffle is a rare, expensive and edible mushroom known for its unique flavour and aroma. It is traditionally grown in Mediterranean Europe, western parts of North America and in Australia. Truffles from France and Italy are popular and find their way into some of the world's best restaurant kitchens within a few days of being foraged. Their perishability, seasonal availability, and demand also make them expensive (white Italian truffles cost around $4,000 a kilo although the black variety is cheaper). Due to the delicate nature, chefs shave truffle mushrooms at the table for the guests just prior
to eating.

"The chef has been working on the truffle biryani for over six months now; creating something new, and marrying diverse flavour profiles takes multiple iterations and time. Truffle is an acquired taste, but everyone in our blind tasting has loved it," shares Mohammed Bhol, co-founder Charcoal Eats. He urges us not to take his word for it and we take up the offer.

The taste test

The truffle biryani is white and looks impressive. Contrary to the risotto-like version we had imagined, the long fragrant rice is every bit what biryani rice should be. The Indian spices are mild and surprisingly, the cream and butter are not overpowering either. The mushrooms give it a great texture and the truffle oil is the true star of this biryani. The subtle and nuanced flavour of this biryani, where no ingredient overpowers each other, will have you returning for multiple helpings. Even our non-vegetarian-loving friends (the kind who debate the sheer existence of vegetable biryani, calling it pulao) had only high praise to offer.

On Available from today
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Cost Rs 449