12 March,2021 07:42 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum Dalal
Bounty Hunter and Punk IPA. Pics/Bipin Kokate
The story of BrewDog begins with Martin Dickie, James Watt and their dog, Bracken, in a garage in Ellon, Scotland. That was 2007, and this Sunday, the taproom will open its 108th global outlet at Kamala Mills. The space, spread across 4,500 square feet, has a grunge hipster vibe, with comfortable cushioned seating, suspended electric bulbs and graffiti walls. The bar will pour 24 types of beer; partners Abhijit Rao and Karan Jain of Ace-Aloha Group have plans for more taprooms pan-India, with their next openings in Hyderabad and Gurgaon. BrewDog will also sell merchandise of caps and tees at the outlet.
It is scorching outside, and so we are happy to take a high chair at the indoor bar to try the chilled beers. Bounty Hunter (Rs 375), a dark stout has notes of rich dark chocolate and caramel and a finish of coconut that is a pleasant surprise. BrewDog is known for aromatic pours that are light and sessionable. The Wild Card Wheat (Rs 525) has been locally brewed especially for India, and is well-rounded on the mouth-feel with a fruity banana finish.
We love the Jagged Edge (Rs 525), a pale ale with bitter notes finished with citrusy flavours. The Rustic Lager is crisp and has a dry-hop bitterness and an overall fruitiness but we'll choose the Punk IPA (Rs 500) that has a grapefruit-forward taste. If you prefer adventure, sample their strongest beer at 7.8 per cent, Dogma (R375). It's heady, and that's all we will say.
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After hanging the apron at Corum Hospitality that owns Bar Stock Exchange (BSE), chef Gaurav Gidwani is on board as F&B head of BrewDog India. "I am bringing the chataka," he smiles. The food, which the international team describes as farm-to-table junk, has classics from their central menu, and desi versions.
The sweet ân' spicy chicken wings (R425) with blue cheese mayo and sweet ân' spicy cauliflower wings (Rs 425) with vegan mayo are both finished in hot sauce and honey glaze that has a beautiful vinegar tang in the crispy coating; it's perfect to cut the acidity of beer on the palate. For desi fans, the browned garlic chicken tikka (Rs 375) is a must-order. Garlic makes its presence felt in three styles: raw European-roasted and Asian-fried.
We love the patriot burger (Rs 490) that is a mouth-watering mess of lamb patty, smoked crispy bacon, and aged cheddar. It also has the tartness of pickles and sweet and smoky BBQ sauce. The butter chicken stuffed dough balls (Rs 460) are baked and buttery; the filling transports us to the streets of Purani Dilli.
We try two versions of paneer in kung pao (Rs 300) and a spicy miso rub (Rs 300). While the former, a bar favourite, is a bit flat, the second has a fiery-chilli wok finish, and it cloaks the miso completely.
While the buzz in Kamala Mills is amiss after the lockdown in 2020, we hope the wave of new F&B openings will change things. And we're happy to begin that journey with a chilled lager.
At BrewDog Midtown Mumbai, Bombay Hub Building, Z-Wing, Unit 1 and 2, Kamala Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
Opens Sunday, March 14
Time 12 pm to 1 am
Call 8097446944