So maach joy

Bhetki jhol with brinjal

From being the coveted star of a feast to serving as the magical cure for a bad hangover, maacher jhol or fish curry is the go-to staple in average Bengali households. It's so central to our nostalgia, that we even have a movie dedicated to it. It's no surprise then that Bangladesh-origin chef, Kishwar Chowdhury, chose to fall back upon this humble but nourishing dish to win over the judges of Masterchef Australia, when she recently served them a barramundi tomato curry with jeera rice and bean bhorta. Malad-based home chef Somma Ghosh, whose parents were born in Bangladesh, shares that maacher jhol is food for the soul. "Back when fridges were not that common in homes, my mother would stop by at the market after dropping me off to school, and pick fresh fish daily. This meant that maacher jhol was always on the table on any amish [non-vegetarian] day," she reminisces.

Kishwar Chowdhury served the judges

Unlike sea fish found here in Mumbai, Bengalis use river fish including bhetki, rohu, catla, parshe, tangra and pabda. Ghosh recommends a trip to places such as Lokhandwala market, Film City Road, and Thakur Village to lay hands on fresh river catch. "The cut is important; we don't cook with tiny chopped up pieces. Ask for paeti [a cut near the fish's belly] pieces if you wish to avoid too many bones. Bhetki or barramundi has the least number of bones," she advises.

The home chef elaborates that maacher jhol assumes many forms, depending on the fish and veggies used, and the season. For instance, rohu or catla pair well with potatoes or a plain haldi-tomato gravy, but bhetki, which smells a bit, is better cooked with ginger, or as a kalia (a richer, thicker gravy) by adding onions. "The tempering is also decided by the veggies used. Brinjal and onion flowers - used more in winter - complement kalonji. But potato, cauliflower and pointed gourd - that thrive in summer - are tempered with cumin and fenugreek seeds," she explains.

Barramundi tomato curry, jeera rice and bean bhorta. Pics courtesy/Instagram

Bengali maacher jhol

Ingredients
>> 6 pieces river fish (rohu/catla/bhetki)
>> 1 medium, grated tomato (or blend it with one green chilli to add more spice)
>> 1 tsp cumin powder
>> 1/2 tsp chilli powder
>> 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
>> Salt to taste
>> 6 tbsp mustard oil

Vegetable of choice: Potato wedges/peeled and halved pointed gourd/peeled, 2-inch drumsticks/cauliflower florets/broad beans
For tempering:
>> 1/4 tsp cumin seeds
>> 6 pieces fenugreek seeds
>> 1 bayleaf

Vegetable of choice: Brinjal wedges/onion flower stalks, cut into 2-inch strips
For tempering:
>> A pinch of nigella seeds
>> Sprigs of coriander leaves for garnishing (optional)

Method
Gently run your fingers around the side of the fish and remove any scales that may have been left behind. Wash the pieces thoroughly. Pat-dry them. Sprinkle and smear salt and turmeric powder evenly on them. Heat the oil. When it's smoking and the colour changes to a lighter shade, simmer the flame and gently tip in the marinated pieces; separate from each other. Cover with a lid. Increase the flame. After six to eight minutes, simmer the flame and use a spatula to turn the pieces. Remove them after both sides are lightly fried and place in the bowl you'll serve the jhol in.

Now, if the oil seems to have reduced a lot after frying, add another tbsp. After two minutes, add the bay leaf, cumin seeds and fenugreek seeds, in that order, or nigella seeds, depending on your vegetable of choice. Add the slices of veggies, and sprinkle salt on them. Cover and fry for eight to 10 minutes. If you use brinjal, remove the wedges from the kadhai after frying, and add them later when the jhol is nearly ready.

Somma Ghosh

Once the veggies are lightly fried, add the tomato paste. Stir, and when the tomato paste is sautéed, add turmeric powder, cumin powder and red chilli powder, along with a sprinkle of salt. Sauté well and add half a cup of water. When the water is bubbling for a couple of minutes, add two more small cups of hot water. Adjust depending on how much gravy you want. Cover and cook for 10 minutes on sim till the veggies are semi-cooked.

At this point, gently add the fried fish pieces, one at a time. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes. Check for seasoning. Garnish with chopped coriander. Serve with steamed basmati or kolam rice.

How to pick right
Ghosh suggests that a set of bright-looking eyes indicate that the fish is fresh. "If you lift the hard cover on the head, the gills should be bright red. If the fish is firm, it's fresh. The navel is on the side of the fish, 3/4th to the tail; once pressed near it, there should be no opaque discharge," she cautions.