23 March,2022 10:13 AM IST | Mumbai | Sukanya Datta
Surmai balchao. Pics/Shadab Khan
Loud cries of fisherfolk selling fresh catch would greet a young Francis Fernandes every morning, as they'd row past his house on the banks of Sharavathi river in Honnavar, on the border of Goa and Karnataka. Often, while picking out surmai, rawas, kanne or bangda from the fisherman's loot, Fernandes would chance upon a pelican or two near the river - head buried deep, also sniffing out its catch of the day. "The pelican only picks the cleanest, freshest fish. What better mascot can there be for a seafood restaurant?" Fernandes's son, Adith, points out. Naturally, the not-so-feral pelican, which once stood outside Fernandes' iconic Mahim restaurant, Fresh Catch, has now travelled to their new outpost at Bandra, guarding the late restaurateur's 24-year-old legacy.
While the Mahim restaurant was like a small, cosy bungalow, Fresh Catch by Francis in Bandra - in the same building as Seefah and McDonald's - run by Adith and sister Ankita, wears a swankier look. There's a swish new logo that ties the family of four together, cute seafood-themed branding, and clusters of cane lamps lending the 65-seater space a mellow yellow glow. But like the pelican, Fernandes' favourite pale pink walls, fish-inspired decorative accents, retro playlist, and the ever-expanding wall of fame - Sachin Tendulkar, Bollywood celebs and politicians beam with plates of seafood - have found a home in Bandra, too. A cursory glance at the menu indicates that they're still serving home-style Karwari fare. "We've often been asked about adding fusion elements. But we don't want to digress from being a home-style, family-run restaurant," Ankita explains.
In the Mahim-Dadar-Parel belt, populated with seafood joints, Fresh Catch has held its fort for over two decades. "Most restaurants in that area are known for Malwani, Goan or Konkani food, whereas we serve Karwari fare which is a mix of Goan and Mangalorean cuisines," reasons Ankita. From bombil tawa fry to crabmeat butter garlic, bangda huggay to prawns ambotik curry, the dishes are rustled up using time-tested methods that Fernandes learnt in his mother's kitchen. A key ingredient in their recipe for success is freshness. A former financial controller at many of the city's five-stars, he built a strong network of trawlers and vendors. While we gulp down a thick, piquant sol kadhi (Rs 95), the siblings recount that their father could ascertain freshness of seafood with his eyes shut. "His grandmother would say that no matter what you put in the masala, if the fish is not fresh, it's a disaster. Dad would pick out the fish himself every morning, a tradition that we've maintained. I once showed him an app that determines freshness, and he laughed at me," chuckles Adith.
On a sweltering Monday afternoon, despite not being officially open, the restaurant is packed. The homely ambience attracts a number of senior citizens. Though a tad overwhelmed, the siblings chat up the diners, much like their father would do. A plate of a massive pomfret harabhara (Rs 850) arrives, soft and juicy, redolent with notes of a pudina and dhania masala. The kanne (ladyfish) fry (Rs 480) is lapped up in a red tawa masala that elevates its inherent sweetness. A plate of perfectly crispy bombil rawa fry (Rs 425) warrants some chilled lager, and we're told they'll soon be serving wine and beer. The heavenly prawns butter garlic (Rs 480) - plated in the shape of a fish - lives up to its cult status, but the winner is a tangy, fiery, coarse surmai balchao ('480) and light-as-air neer dosas (Rs 120 for four).
As we dig into a wobbly, caramel custard ('150), Adith and Ankita reveal their future plans: a small al fresco section, and a cloud kitchen in Andheri. "The Mahim space that's under renovation should also be ready in one and a half years. Everything for my parents was rooted in Mahim - our home, the church, and the restaurant. That's where we began," Adith signs off.
At 2nd floor, Khan House, Hill Road, Bandra West.
Time 11.30 am to 3.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm (reservations recommended)
Call 9821121876
