The perfect portal to Goa

The store is helmed by Tony and Mary Dsouza. Pics/Bipin Kokate

It's another blistering hot morning in Mumbai when our eyes meet the slightly chipped-paint signboard of Perfect Confectioners & Caterers in Chandan Wadi. There's no one at the counter but a waiting customer points to the kitchen room, where Mary Dsouza, who runs the store with husband Tony emerges from and reassures her customer that his pack of six croquettes will be ready soon. Meanwhile, she draws a stool for us to settle down but we - like anyone else, we imagine - are interrupted by the aroma and sight of the freshly made croquettes tucked into a white paper cover with a few oil stains sneaking through, as if nagging to say, ‘You wish you were eating this.'

Surrounded by counters and shelves, we notice an old Panasonic CRT TV set fixed right on top of the wall facing us. "We pass the time watching it - now more so because we don't get many customers," Mary, 53, says. Like most food businesses, the lockdown has hit them hard. Perfect, as it is simply called, catered largely to community events and institutions like schools and colleges; it is unusual for one to run into any Catholic who has lived long enough in this part of town who hasn't heard of their plum cakes and patties. The Dsouzas can't draw up an average for the number of orders they used to receive per day, pre-lockdown. Mary simply says it was "non-stop".

Perfect is known for their unique plum cake, the recipe for which Tony says includes four kinds of fruits

Unlike their patties, there aren't many layers to Perfect's history. Details of how and when it came to be are hazy in Tony's memory. He believes his father Luis, who worked as a waiter at a hotel in Churchgate, established it in 1951 as purely a catering venture. In 1978, Tony took over the business at the age of 16. "During my father's time, we would get at least three catering orders per day. But snacks were limited to patties. When I came in, I started counter sales with more items like croquettes and samosas," Tony, 58, says.

As of now, their menu includes 62 items with prices for snacks in the Rs 20 to Rs 45 range per piece. The plum cake is unquestionably the star, and they make it in a rum variant, too. Tony maintains that they've stuck to the same recipe that comprises four kinds of fruit which renders a unique flavour as compared to the options available at other bakeries. "The Irani bakeries have always been around in the area but their style is different and my style is different," he shares. They also make food items on order; favourites include chicken/mutton biryani, xacuti and sorpotel.

The mushroom quiche is a hot-selling item at the moment

Mary chimes in to assert that they cater to the quintessential Goan tastebud, with more meat and masala over veggies. In fact, they shut shop in May for a break to the sunshine state they hail from. "People remember the taste and come from across the city. For Christmas, our items have even travelled to Dubai and Canada. The pork shop Rita's Store in Dabul used to be called ‘mini Goa'. But they've closed down, so we're the only ones left. If you're missing Goa, just come to Perfect."

Tony Dsouza with wife Mary

The couple looks forward to having their son Luis, 23, who has pursued his studies in hotel management, run the show. The lane the shop is located in is under the radar for redevelopment as well, so Mary envisions a modern avatar. But there is still a promise to cling on to their essence; to remind you that the simpler times you shared over buttery, flaky layers and moist crumbs were indeed, perfect.

People, places, things that stood the test of time

At Perfect Confectioners & Caterers, shop no 48, Sethna Building, Chandan Wadi, Marine Lines.
Time 8.30 am to 8 pm
Call 22058492