Mumbai Food: Cloud pop up to introduce a treat from North East

Tita bhekuri pitik

In February 2015, home chef Gitika Saikia visited her hometown in Assam to meet with her in-laws. Then, a casual trip to Ronagajan market in Tezpur led to Saikia's encounter with the Mishing community. Originally from Arunachal Pradesh, the Mishing are indigenous people and one of the larger tribes that inhabit the North East.

Gitika Saikia

In the neighbouring village of Bookajan, where several members of the community live, Saikia discovered the delectable, simple and holistic food of the government-recognised scheduled tribe. "I have been trying to popularise North Eastern food since 2014 and I think it's important that Mumbaikars discover the culture of lesser-known ethnic communities from that area. For instance, Bihu is hugely popular now. But there are so many more festivals that are equally interesting," Saikia shares, ahead of a festive meal she is preparing for this weekend. The event will celebrate the fare cooked by the Mishing community during the Ali Aii Ligang festival, which begins on the first Wednesday of the Phalgun month in the Hindu calendar.

(Clockwise from top) Sticky rice, pithang oying and namshing

A spring festival that marks the onset of the harvest season, Ali Aii Ligang sees cumulative celebration of indigenous food, agriculture and traditional attire characteristic of the community. Historically, having resided by the river, their food is fish-heavy. Combine that with staples like country chicken and pork and condiments like black sesame, red chillies, ombe leaves and tora paat (a leaf used to wrap food in to be steamed) and what you have is a cuisine brimming with flavours and freshness. "The food of the Mishing people - unlike the Sonowal Kachari tribe, which I belong to - is simple. It makes use of very few masalas and more fresh herbs, and is commonly cooked over wood fire," Saikia explains.

This comes through in the North-Eastern home chef's weekend spread that will feature dishes like mecheka pork, a dish made with the meat and piquant ombe or mecheka leaves; pithang oying, a chicken curry made with red lentils and rice flour, which is served with sticky rice and namshing, a chutney-like condiment made with dry and smoked river fish; and bhekuri tita alu pitika, a mash made with potato and wild brinjals. "This feast is a part of the larger initiative to let people know about the beautiful diversity of the North East," she tells us.

ON Today (to place orders); February 23 (for meal)
AT Gitika's Pakghor (delivery across Mumbai).
CALL 9820445990
COST Rs 100 to Rs 450

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