21 August,2023 07:50 AM IST | Mumbai | Pooja Patel
Glutathione is now available not only as part of skin treatments and procedures, but also in the form of pills and creams
We live in an age of evolving beauty standards and accelerated advancements in cosmetic treatments. And there's been a significant increase in the interest and demand for skin-lightening procedures. Such treatments are the most sought-after, especially by women who are about to get married. Countless procedures that essentially have invasive treatments to âtone down' the bride-to-be's skin colour, are packaged as beauty treatments to make the woman look âfresh'.
The latest in this fairness-chasing market is the glutathione therapy and pills that are being touted as a skin-lightening solution. This has been the talk of the town ever since it was shown on the popular web series, Made in Heaven. In the first episode, the makers have shown the pitfalls of undergoing such procedures at the hands of untrained salon and spa workers, instead of consulting certified dermatologists. This bride-to-be character Sarina, after taking glutathione tablets, which her mother calls âjust an antioxidant', breaks into rashes and hives. All done, to make a dark-skinned bride look a tad fairer.
But what is glutathione that allegedly, even Bollywood A-listers take? "It is a naturally occurring tripeptide composed of three amino acids: cysteine, glycine, and glutamic acid. It is found in virtually every cell of the human body and plays a crucial role in various physiological processes. One of its primary functions is acting as a potent antioxidant, protecting cells from oxidative stress and damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals," explains dermatologist Dr Niketa Sonavane, who has several celebrities as her clients. She adds that it also assists in other functions such as detoxification, immune function, cellular health, DNA synthesis and repair, and metabolism among others.
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Glutathione is now available not only as part of skin treatments and procedures, but also in the form of pills and creams. And the reason why it has become so popular is not just this craze for fair and lighter skin, but also the easy availability. In the context of dermatology and skin health, this component has garnered attention for its potential role in skin pigmentation. "Glutathione surplus in our body has the potential of lightening the skin by switching the colour of our skin's melanin pigment from brown (eumelanin) to golden (pheomelanin)," says Dr Sonavane.
The celebrity dermatologist further warns that it is important to note that while glutathione is naturally produced within the body, its supplementation and use in therapeutic treatments should be approached with caution and under the guidance of medical professionals, especially considering individual health conditions and potential interactions.
Dr Rinky Kapoor, consultant dermatologist, cosmetic dermatologist and dermato-surgeon warns of the misuse or overuse of glutathione. Though it is generally considered safe when used in appropriate amounts and under proper medical guidance, using glutathione pills or therapies for skin-lightening purposes is a matter of concern and requires careful consideration. "When used for medical purposes or as a dietary supplement, glutathione is typically well-tolerated. However, the safety of using glutathione for skin lightening has raised questions due to potential risks and lack of regulation in some cases," Dr Kapoor explains.
She further adds that it's important to note that the safety of any medical or cosmetic treatment, including glutathione therapy, can vary based on factors such as individual health, dosage, administration method, and the oversight of a qualified healthcare professional. "Misuse or self-administration without proper medical supervision can lead to adverse effects and potential health risks. Before considering any glutathione-related treatment, it's advisable to consult a medical professional who can provide personalised guidance based on individual health conditions and goals," Dr Kapoor elucidates.
While the availability of these pills over the counter may empower individuals to make health-related decisions independently, and is convenient; there are underlying dangers. Dr Kapoor warns, "The supplements may lack standardised dosing guidelines, leading to inconsistent and potentially ineffective results. Moreover, improper dosage can result in adverse effects. Without understanding individual health conditions, there are risks that can lead to misuse and unintended health consequences. In the absence of medical supervision, it can result in adverse skin reactions, allergies or other health issues."
The naturally occurring antioxidant compound is essential for liver and respiratory health; is used to treat certain genetic and skin pigmentation disorders; and some studies and research suggests it can help to a certain level in treating cancer and neurological disorders.
So one is bound to think why, a component that helps with such severe diseases and disorders, is being rampantly used for something so superficial - skin lightening. Image consultants Sonal Gadhvi and BBhuvaneshwarii point out that conversation surrounding the people's obsession with fair skin and colourism in the country is multifaceted and that it is important to approach this topic with sensitivity and a comprehensive understanding of the societal, cultural, and psychological factors at play.
"The craze for fair/lighter skin often stems from historical, colonial influences, which have perpetuated a harmful notion that lighter skin is somehow superior or more desirable. It's crucial to challenge these deep-seated beliefs and celebrate the diverse spectrum of skin tones that exist. However, it's also essential to approach the conversation without judgment," shares Gadhvi, adding that societal pressures, media representation, and cultural norms have contributed to the prevalence of this craze.
BBhuvaneshwarii points out that people's choices to engage in skin lightening treatments might be driven by complex motivations, including personal self-esteem, societal expectations, and even professional aspirations. "Despite significant advancements in various aspects of society, certain deeply ingrained biases persist, often shaping perceptions of beauty and social hierarchy. This has far-reaching implications on individuals' self-esteem, mental health, and overall well-being," she shares.
"In our growing-up years, we tend to imbibe the comments and discussions that we hear around us, be it in schools and families, at social gatherings or among friends. So people grow up with certain judgments, especially about physical appearances. This affects their confidence and how they carry themselves," says Mihika Bhanot, image consultant. She adds that beauty comes in all shades, and the way forward is to not let people's comments or societal pressure to submit into the madness of attempts to change skin colour or lighten it. "It's now all about how you wish to carry yourself. Be comfortable in your skin and accept yourself with grace," Bhanot says.
Or as Sarina's would-be-husband in the Made in Heaven series, uttered, "Don't buy into the sh't!"