Smells like a pageturner: With Subko Coffee, Kitab Khana offers a new treat to visitors

Jackfruit haleem

Food: Hearty
Ambiance: Comfy
Service: Prompt
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 2/4

Every once in a while, while browsing inside a library or bookstore, we stop to take a deep whiff of the pages for some bibliosmia, or book smell. Old books have a woody smell while fresh pages have a grassy note. The next time you walk into Kitab Khana, housed in the 160-year-old Somaiya Bhavan at Fort, apart from bibliosmia, you will also be greeted by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and buttery eats.

Turmeric toast with paneer

Starting this week Subko coffee roaster and bakehouse has found a new address inside the bookstore, replacing Food For Thought. For this new entrant, we are ready to face the orange alert amidst the ongoing heat wave. The green walls and posters of coffee history give it a fresh look. There is merchandise such as tote bags and coffee equipment, cold brews and also, fresh coffee on display.

Lavender cold brew

After the bookstore was ravaged by a fire on December 10, 2020, it took some time to bring bibliophiles back, and this addition is aimed at encouraging more footfalls. We scan the counter that showcases drool-worthy eats and pick the Paneer turmeric hummus toast (Rs 455) simply because it reminds us of the colour of Van Gogh's Sunflowers. On a slab of sourdough is a slathering of hummus and so, a friend attempts a literary pun, "this is like slathering heights." Topped with lightly tossed paneer coated in coffee, rubbed and topped with micro greens, this one is a mouthful of a smooth hummus, chunky paneer with the freshness of microgreens.

Strawberry cheesecake cruffin

We wash it down with a Subko lavender (Rs 375) that contains cold brew spiked with tonic, and flavoured with lavender. A slice of orange offers respite from Mumbai's mercury levels. We joke that 30 ml of gin is all we need. The Peppermint mocha iced tea (R300) has a chilled, creamy mouthfeel, but we miss the peppermint completely. During our visit, there were certain things about the ambience we couldn't overlook - our table was too rickety, and the sight of fleas at the counter, as well as around the table once our orders arrived.

A view of the space from Kitab Khana's mezzanine floor

Next up is the Jackfruit haleem quiche (Rs 425). We find the onion brista an overkill. We sweep it to the side to find the jackfruit that has been pounded into a haleem. This round quiche has a flaky circumference and we love the butter paper textured bites. The buttery crumbs melt on our palate but it creates a mess on the table. All the fare is presented on boards that might frame well for Insta feeds but aren't a practical option, especially for crumbly bakes. It's a sweet ending with the gigantic Subko strawberry cruffin (Rs 350). It is served with a slender cheesecake slice like a stylish embellishment on Victoria Beckham's hats. When we slice it open, strawberry sauce oozes out. One of the city's best bookstores has found its café match.

Time 10.30 am to 6.30 pm, all days at 45/47, Kitab Khana, Somaiya Bhavan, MG Road, Fort.
Call 22844242

4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/5 Good, 0.5/4 Average. Subko didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals