Cuisine from the Capital

Go down the Purani Dilli lane at Red Fort in Bangalore to sample some vegetarian north-Indian fare

Walk past the food lane in Koramangala and the colour red is what will hit you at Red Fort, the new restaurant serving up North Indian cuisine. You will be welcomed by a darbaan dressed OTT (over-the-top a la fancy dress mode) straight out of a nautanki, in bright red costume with a sword in hand, actually looking like he's guarding a fort in the midst of all the buzz in this part of town. He's sure to entice and intrigue you to enter this mystical space.

Red fort
Food: tasty
Service: efficient
Ambience: snazzy


Enter and you will be blinded by the colour red all around you. There's even a lazer light at the inside of the entrance door with walls painted on all sides with a glazed red brick finish. The swords placed at the corners, the Raja Rani paintings, warriors on horsebacks are reminiscent of what old Delhi is all about. If there is a part of you that aches for all that Purani Dilli holds, then take the narrow staircase that leads you to this vegetarian restaurant. Yes, the repertoire of North-Indian fare is only limited to vegetarian here. We wonder why.

Skip the soup and head to the chaat section. Our order of Papdi Chaat (Rs 40) came plated like regular papdi topped with chutney that smelt a tad stale and pungent. We had to call for another one, which was fresh and tangy and this time it was spot on. We were told that they make theirs with tomato and not with tamarind so it tasted different the first time. But who would care for chaat without the imli chutney?

For the mains, try the Shahi Paneer (Rs 115), which is creamy, rich and slightly sweet on the palate, the way it's meant to be. Also scoop up some thick and mildly spiced Palak Paneer (Rs 115)with Tandoori Roti (Rs 12). The Chana Masala (Rs 80) is for those who enjoy spice in their food, though ours was a wee bit undercooked.

Thankfully the portions aren't mangy and the prices aren't steep either. A starter and two main dishes would make for a wholesome meal for two. Also they don't come smothered in oil and are quite balanced on their spices too. But don't expect high taste. It's food that a professional might like to sample on a working lunch or with family for a casual weekend meal. Nothing too fancy and it fits the space of just-like-home-food (if you're a North-Indian) away from home. The service is brisk and attentive.u00a0

The desserts are also staid with gulab jamuns and ice creams. Pick the Gudbud (Rs 80) which is a loaded glass with three scoops of ice cream, nuts, cherries and fruits. Since the tables are placed so close to each other, Red Fort fails to present its magnanimity and the eatery feels stuffy after a while.

When it's close to a peak hour, especially on a weekend you realise that there is a sudden flurry of activity, with too many things happening in a not-so-spacious hall with an overload of eager diners, waiters scurrying aroundu00a0 dressed in red satin sherwanis with red turbans, that you might want to offer them some fresh air.

At: Red Fort Family Restaurant, 351, 1st and 2nd Floor, 1st B Main Road, Opp. HDFC Bank, 7th Block, Koramangala
Call: 40986176
Meal for two: Rs 500 Red Fort didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.u00a0u00a0u00a0