Don't leave the coast

Tavira, a new Koli-Bengali-Continental eatery at Lower Parel should have stuck to coastal Maharashtrian-Goan fare, and got itself an authentic Bengali cook

Having spent lazy hours over a Pomfret Recheado at the familiar Soul Fry in Bandra, and more recently, Casa Soul Fry in Kala Ghoda, Tavira had to live up to our expectations, and its lineage. Meldan D Cunha, co-owner of the chain with AD Singh, makes a solo debut with Tavira, the newly opened coastal eatery that lies on the fringes of bustling-with-office-goers Lower Parel.



Barring a couple that was absorbed in discussions about marriage and other trivialities, Tavira was empty on a week night, allowing us the luxury of choosing a table -- window seating that overlooked crazy traffic zipping towards Worli and Prabhadevi. The corner table allowed us a full view of the tiny eatery, the ceiling dancing with diamond-shaped reflections cast off dainty terracotta lamps. The walls carried random black-and-white photographs, and waiters hung around making the place seem overstaffed.

The strike of disappointment: They don't serve alcohol. But Fried Calamari goes well with rum-and-coke, we argued in our heads. Elly, the overzealous manager wasn't charged up about our quandary. Instead, the attention was quickly diverted towards suggesting what to order. The menu looked familiar; most of the dishes we had devoured with delight at the Soul Fry branches. It was time to tread on unfamiliar terrainu00a0-- the Koli and Bengali additions.

The place fell out of favour when this writer, thanks to her Maharashtrian roots, and a best friend who can't think beyond Rabindranath Tagore and Chingri Malaikari, jabbed into Chilli Fish Kolkata style (Rs 140) and Bharlela Sarga (Rs 250). With happy memories of the Chilli Fish, tossed and served with the right hint of Oriental tang at Oh!Calcutta, this variation disappointed with its unexciting texture, taste and presentation.

Too red and sweet, instead of being gingery-soy. The Bharlela Sarga (stuffed pomfret in green masala pan-fried) managed to salvage the mood. But a whiff of fishy aroma drowned the punch of masalas. Shouldn't it be the other way round?

We took another shot at being adventurous, and ordered the Railway Mutton Curry (Rs 160) and Kolbi Chi Ambat (Rs 160) with chapatis and Sannas (steamed bread). An old colonial recipe made famous at Howrah railway station, the Mutton Curry needs to urgently trim down the garam masala content; the strong taste hits you like a hurricane, robbing basic flavours of onion and ginger-garlic. Maybe, that rum-and-coke would have come in handy again. But the Kolbi Chi Ambat's (prawns in a tangy tomato gravy) deliciously piquant taste made us smile. Have it with a portion of steaming soft Sannas.

We didn't venture towards Continental stuff, but the guest feedback book spoke of Udipi-style pasta.

In addition to lunch and dinner, Tavira (the name is inspired from a Portuguese town) opens for chai-pani at 6 pm, offering a selection of burgers, frankies and sandwiches.

At: NM Joshi Marg, Deepak Talkies junction, Elphinstone Road.
Call: 24965139

Tavira didn't know we were there. The GUIDE reviews anonymously andu00a0pays for meals