04 July,2010 03:55 PM IST | | Fiona Fernandez
A 60 year-old eatery in CP Tank serves 10 varieties of khichdi, including Cheese, Hariyali, and Makai Paneer. And it's all washed down with Masala Chaas that arrives in a beer bottle
Clearly, the customer rules at Khichdi Samrat, the 60 year-old vegetarian eatery that stands in the heart of the trading class neighbourhood around Cowasji Patel (CP to most of us) Tank. For the 40-odd minutes that we were at this no-frills eating-house, co-owner Bharat Agarwal effortlessly juggled between manning the counter, checking on customers while sharing his family's fixation with khichdi.
The Hariyali Khichdi made from pudina, palak and garlic, is tangy and
deliciously light
In search of Khichdi
When Agarwal's grandfather Brij Kishore Agarwal came down to Mumbai from Mathura, he set up a small stall at Chowpatty to serve mithai and savouries. By the time his son, Mahesh Chandra took over, the demand for mithai began to diminish. This was when the Agarwals moved to CP Tank, and set up shop on Vithalbhai Patel Road. Slowly, the business picked up, and Mahesh's older son, Atul, who had a degree from Dadar's Catering College, joined his father.u00a0
The father-son duo noticed that the maximum city didn't have too many restaurants that served healthy, wholesome khichdi. "It's light and quick to prepare. Besides, with so many hospitals nearby, patients and their kin from out of town prefer home-cooked, safe food," says Agarwal of the 10 varieties of the humble fare they serve.
The restaurant's kitchen is in full view of the seating area, spotless clean
and stacked with a myriad masalas. Pics/Bipin Kokate
The restaurant's kitchen is in full view of the seating area. "My cooks prepare every item on the spot. The khichdi is cooked in 10 minutes flat," he says, urging us to indulge in the piping hot spread -- Special Vrindavan Khichdi (Rs 70), Hariyali Khichdi (Rs 50) and the Dal Dhokli (Rs 25, Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday).
It's all washed down by Masala Chaas (Rs 30 for 750 ml) served in a beer bottle! "It was my father's idea. It was perfect for a family of four. It's refreshing, with a chatpata, masala-tinged kick to it. We use only high-quality buffalo milk," says older brother Atul.
Other new-age specials include Cheese, Dry Fruit and Makai Paneer Khichdi. This apart, their Marwari specials like Dalbati (Thursday, Sunday) and Jodhpuri Gatta Saag also draw in the crowds; especially Marwari, Gujarati, Rajasthani traders and the curious gourmand.
Just like home
Agarwal senior passed away in 1999, and since then brothers Atul and Bharat have ensured the restaurant retains its originality and trademark quality. All khichdis are made from moong dal and desi ghee. Raita, Kadhi and Papad accompany the Special Vrindavan Khichdi. Being forewarned helped. Cooked with tomato and capsicum and a generous sprinkling of dry fruits, it had to be eaten sparingly to save room for the rest.
The Hariyali Khichdi, made from pudina, palak and garlic, was tangy and deliciously light. As we attempted the third chart topper, the Dal Dhokli, we noticed how Agarwal's shared a mutual respect for his staff, right down to the delivery boy who rushed with a roti parcel to the dharamshala nearby.
The food took us straight to a bustling marketplace in Mathura. And the cows that ambled on the road outside helped complete the illusion.
It has a history
Khichdi (a preparation of rice and lentils) is described in the writings of Afanasiy Nikitin, a Russian adventurer who travelled to India in the 15th century. It was a dish popular with the Mughals, especially Jehangir. Ain-i-Akbari, a 16th century document written by Akbar's vizier Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak, mentions the recipe.
Sushma Reddy, Vinay Pathak love his khichdi
Actors Vinay Pathak and Rajat Kapoor are regulars here, says Agarwal. "They are comfortable even in a crowded, simple restaurant. Plenty of TVwallahs like Jitendra Dixit drop by often. Even model Sushma Reddy was here."
At: Shri Vrindavan Bhavan Khichdi Samrat, 44/46, V.P. Road, opposite Rambagh Wadi, C.P. Tank. Call: 22420344/ 66381332. Free Home delivery up to Prarthana Samaj, Charni Road and beyond, depending on order quantities
