Must-eat matka kebabs and nimbu nariyal neer

Are THE GUIDE'S picks at Purana Villa, a frontier food lover's paradise that rests quietly in Jor Bagh market

A dainty drive leads to the Jor Bagh market, calm as the captain who sits waiting in those corners. Purana Villa. Quaint name. Old world khaana. New world vibes. We're welcomed warmly by two well-trained male attendants, and owner Capt Daljeet Chopra joins shortly thereafter. He's been there, done that -- operated catering businesses, managed restaurants and fed hotels. And happy to be at his place, after all that. "The interiors, oh, yes, were my wife's idea," he shares, as we look around the mellow mosaic lamps, fascinating faux hearth and furniture that's obviously not designer stuff. But who cares when your platter's pleasing.

Food
The succulent sakora kebabs (mutton and chicken), cooked and served in matkas that are flour-sealed, floored us. Other variants on the assorted platter include reshmi murgh tikka (predictable), gilafi seekh (commendably spicy), sarson machchi tikka (innovative), hara kebab and methi makai ki tikki, both of which you'd appreciate if you have a taste for mild meats. The murgh khurchan ki chaat and dal anukrit chatpati are desi salads that deserve special mention.
Main course meant embarking on gosht dum biryani with raita, cooked with just the right fragrance, flavours and spice -- a combination rare to find in the capital. Kadhai jheenga and dhingri mattar with naan followed, though we'd recommend the biryani any day.
In desserts, go East -- nothing beats the khajur kheer, a Bengali specialty.

Drinks
There are none yet, even as you spot fancy bottles perched atop bar shelves. But beverages like nimbu nariyal sherbet, sweet lassi and kokkam sherbet make sure you stay healthily satiated meanwhile.u00a0u00a0u00a0u00a0

Ambience
English music. Indian menu. Family chatter. You get the drift. The captain's folks are seated in one corner in a celebratory mood. There's another table that's occupied. And we sit on the third. That's about it. The calm is enchanting, the silence sweet. Sprinkle that with courteous, smiling staff, a clean washroom upstairs and close dinner guests, and it makes for a charming two-hour escape. We'd rather you visit with loved ones; the corporate clan can do with noisy nightspots.

Purana Villa,
Jor Bagh Market
Call: 24629207/09
Meal for two: Rs 1,500
Alcohol: License awaited
Timings: Noon to moon