12 September,2009 07:14 AM IST | | Aastha Atray Banan
The fishing village of Korlai is under 3 hours away from Mumbai, and has all the makings of an exotic weekend getawayu00a0- a lighthouse you can stay in, an abandoned fort that takes you back to 16th century and languorous fisherfolk who tempt you to quit that corporate job, now
It's said oh-so often when we are in the city, all grey and smokey, and yet it's hard to believe, almost like a raging rumour. But it's true - it does get greener once you leave the city lines, and the best testing route is one through Karnala and Alibaug out to the little-known Korlai Light House, just under three hours away from Mumbai.
How to get there
Take the Mumbai-Goa highway (NH17) via Alibaug. If it's mealtime, look out for the beach getaway's favourite pit stop - Sanman restaurant. The Fish Plate here is to die-for - a slice of crisp better-fried Surmai, Curry, a Prawn Veggie mix, and spongy Amboli (rice pancakes). That, plus a Veg Plate and two colas will cost you a modest Rs 200.
16th century Portuguese fort
The village of Korlai is a sleepy one, making it easier to snap out of Mumbai's frenzied pace. If you land there in the afternoon, you are likely to encounter a ban on all action, thanks to siesta hour. Locals, mostly fisherfolk, lounge in brightly-painted verandahs or sip on post-lunch tea.
Our Indica looked quite out of place. A ramshackle chariot would have been more appropriate. As you tiptoe closer to the seafront, you are in for a surprise, with the the 16th century Portuguese Korlai Fort (romantically called the El Morro) rising out of nowhere.
Built on the island of Morro de Chaul that guards the way to the Revdanda Creek, it was meant as a companion to the fort at Chaul. Its strategic position allowed the Portuguese to use it to defend their domain that stretched from Korlai to Vasai. Several locals still speak a dialect called Kristi, a combination of Portuguese and Marathi.
Stay at the lighthouse
The Korlai lighthouse that you get to after driving through a painfully narrow made-for-one vehicle lane, is a new addition. Built in 1955 to help fishermen and ships find their way home, it's nestled at the foot of the fort. A talk with the caretaker revealed that if armed with the right permissions, you can rent a 4-bed room at the scene, and camp there.
We climbed through a narrow, steel ladder to the top of the lighthouse, and the muscle pull was worth it. The sea stretches out for miles and as you go trigger-happy, your camera is likely to run out of charge.
Another 50 steps higher lies the entrance to the in-ruins Korlai fort. This is where peace dwells - among chirping birds, distant gurgling of waves, all muffled by the confined silence of an abandoned fort. Take a moment, rest your elbows on the fort's wall, gaze at the fishing boat-dotted waters. It won't be long before you have to head back. But remember that someone said, "Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe."
Jungle Lore organises trips to the Karnala Bird Sanctuary and Korlai fort. Cost: Rs 850 per person (includes travel by chartered bus, breakfast, lunch and evening snack). For details mail junglelore@gmail.com or call Kaustubh Upadhye on 9987126233 or Gaurav Athalye on 9833246740
