Train journeys have held a special fascination for journalist Mark Tully who writes for Cond ufffd Nast Traveller India's launch edition. With a host of luxury services now in India, he explains why there's never been a better time to jump on board. An exclusive extract
Train journeys have held a special fascination for journalist Mark Tully who writes for Cond ufffd Nast Traveller India's launch edition. With a host of luxury services now in India, he explains why there's never been a better time to jump on board. An exclusive extract
This revival of deluxe train travel in India puts in my mind the real heyday of the railways -- the early 1900s, when stiff competition among luxury trains in America gave birth to the expression 'red-carpet treatment'.u00a0
In his book, Blood, Iron and Gold -- a must for anyone interested in railways -- British journalist Christian Wolmar describes in detail the dinner menu on-board the Twentieth Century Limited, one of the legendary trains of that era.
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It started with oysters, then soup, a choice of fish, chicken, ribs of beef or goose, all finished off with cheese. Then, gentlemen passengers could retire to the club car for a nightcap while their wives repaired to the observation car.
In those days, luxury wasn't uncommon on the Indian railways either. One traveller at the beginning of the 20th century recalled the service First Class passengers enjoyed, which included a barber who appeared no sooner had you 'passed your hand over your stubbly beard'.
Service on the trains these days even extends to enhancing the journey outside of the train. One stop on the Maharajas' Express is an evening boat ride on the Ganga in Varanasi. And in Khajuraho, I was fascinated to hear the train's veteran guide (known as Mamaji) interpreting delicately, but with humour, the erotic sculpture on the temples.
My longest train journey took two weeks, and stretched from Pakistan's western port of Karachi to Khyber Pass in the north. I was making a film for the BBC's Great Railway Journeys series and it wasn't always luxurious. The first part was: we were given an entire First Class air-conditioned bogie for the team.
When I told the attendant that Indian First Class compartments didn't have loos of their own, he was inordinately pleased. Even more luxurious than our sleeping accommodation were our own dining area and sitting room. It was a divisional manager's old-fashioned teak coach, which he could attach to any train and travel in like royalty.
Like most people, I do enjoy being spoilt, I do enjoy the luxury of someone always being there to look after my comfort. But for me, every railway journey is a luxury compared to going by car, or even worse, flying. The longer the train journey, the better.
The great advantage of trains is the time they give you to yourself. You can eat, you can read, you can enjoy watching the countryside pass. And what in the world is more luxurious than being rocked to sleep by the motion of a train? Cond ufffd Nast Traveller India is out on stands now.for Rs 100.
