Stripe-tease with Sher Khan

Fiona Fernandez went looking for the big cat at Pench National Park near Nagpur. And didn't find one. But the no-show was spiced up by the sighting of tiger claw marks on a salai tree, a photogenic Indian bison bunch posing for a family picture and guest appearances by the Chausingha and Neelgai

Fiona Fernandez went looking for the big cat at Pench National Park near Nagpur. And didn't find one. But the no-show was spiced up by the sighting of tiger claw marks on a salai tree, a photogenic Indian bison bunch posing for a family picture and guest appearances by the Chausingha and Neelgai

So, Sher Khan decided to give us a miss. Bagheera checked in to next-door Kanha. Baloo was honeycomb hunting.

Though the affable Colonel Haathi graced us with his presence and Bandar log monkeyed around. This might read like an amusing rip-off of The Jungle Book. Well, it almost turned out like that.

Prior to our jungle safari at the Pench National Park near Nagpur, the buzz was that its forests, which cover India's first inter-state Project Tiger Reserve (Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh) were inspiration for Rudyard Kipling's The Jungle Book.

So, as our vehicle neared the main gate leading into the Maharashtra side of the reserve, it was natural for us to imagine Mowgli swing from a banyan vine, Baloo and Bagheera in tow, while King Louis and his band of monkeys would line up for a jungle-styled welcome.



Portrait of the Gaur Family

The MTDC resort at Sillari was utilitarian as it was charming, with octagonal-shaped rooms giving it a forest home vibe. After fuel recharge and shutter eye, we set off on our first jungle safari.

The resort is barely a kilometre from the gate that lead us into the park's buffer area.
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The help desk at the resort arranged for a gypsy and guide and soon, under the blistering afternoon sun, we the amateur naturalists were on our way.

The first spotting, despite being that of a disinterested wild boar, invited collective gasps; this was followed by a herd of Sambhar.

However, the highest octaves were reserved for Pench's unofficial ambassador the peacock. We counted at least 40 by the end of that day. The gigantic Gaur (Indian bison) and his family posed for an extensive shoot.

Suddenly a loud noise pierced the jungle air we had a puncture! Excited at this twist, we disembarked (park rules disallow visitors to get off the jeep on a safari) hoping for the elusive member of the cat family to drop by. No such luck.
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The spare tyre was fixed and we were back on the trail. Chausingha (four antlered deer), Langurs and Jackals teased us along the way until we reached the nucleus of the reserve the basin of the Pench River.

The canvas of multi-layered soil, haunting falcon cries and Sambhar crossing our path set the stage for a dramatic end to our first safari.

Next morning, we crossed over to Madhya Pradesh for an extended morning safari. Our collective prayers invoked the forest Gods to produce Sher Khan or even his smaller cousins.

As we neared the main gate, the unabashed borrowing from Kipling's classic was rampant, with signage like "Mowgli's Den" and "Kipling Country" scattered around.

Reach the gate early to book one of the limited safari gypsies. The tourist inflow is high; mainly Brits seeking to replay hunting legends dating to the days of the Raj.

6.35 am. 12 degrees Celsius. We huddled in the open gypsy as it cantered through a kachha jungle trail. Our guide rattled away "Pench covers 785 sq. kms.

A wooden machaan overlooking the Pench River allows for a panoramic view, and is used during the park census

Ninety per cent falls in MP and the rest, Maharashtra. You'll see deer, peacock, bison, Neelgai andu2026 325 types of birds!" And the tiger? we wondered. "Erru2026sightings are difficult... only 24 tigers left."

Double sigh. Just then, we spotted an elephant safari return. Here, advanced tracking devices were used, with help from the control room, to spot Sher Khan.
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Too late to halt jumbo. Our collective dejection was somewhat rescued when we spotted Maharashtra's state bird (an obese green-coloured pigeon).

Next up, the elusive Neelgai (blue bull) showed up, its greenish-blue coat shimmering in the morning sun.

My knowledge of dendrology increased the Vansundari with its striking white bark (strangely called Ghost Tree in English), haldu, kahu, arjun, tendu, char and garadi trees formed part of this dry, deciduous forest.

The many swamps fed by Pench River, are avian paradise.

Bee eaters, pond herons, blue jays, parakeets, white-eyed buzzards, Indian grey hornbills, magpies, drongos, jungle babblers, black rimmed and golden back woodpeckers, spotted doves, cormorants and jungle owlets kept us company on this five-hour safari.

The Savannah-like landscape, dotted with Chital, Sambhar and the Chausingha made us feel like we could've been part of NGC's India Wild Series. Our striped fixation faded away.

Of course, a tiger's claw marks on a Salai tree made for a Jataka Tale-like spin. That's when our guide heard a deer's warning cry.
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The Chausingha gets its name from its four-tiered antlers. The gigantic Gaur (Indian bison) and his family looked up from a drink break for a photo shoot pics www.travelwithacouple.com

A tiger or leopard had to be close. We waited. For 15 silent minutes.

Soon, more gypsies reached the spot, anticipating the big cat to emerge from the caves. In an anticlimax, a ruddy mongoose sauntered out. But the cries continued.
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We raced off to the other side of the caves. Another 20 minutes. No tiger, not even the less-pricey leopard. Only boisterous Langurs doing their rendition of the Swing Thing.

Nevertheless, it was wild, wild morning. Such that sighting a peacock or a sluggish Sambhar no longer invited our awe.

And never mind if Sher Khan didn't show up.. he was probably enjoying watching this human circus unfold from a treetop.

On-The-Side Visits

Ramtek: If you have 5-6 hours to kill before your flight/train, take a detour to Ramtek (Nagpur-Ramtek 57 km), after your jungle sojourn. Legend has it that sage Agastya, believed to be the first Aryan to have crossed the Vindhyas, made it his meditative abode. A potpourri of architectural styles, ranging from Chalukyan and Islamic to Gujarati, the temples offers a panoramic view of the town below. u00a0 It's masala tourism in all its glory crowds, food stalls, bangle sellers and technicoloured cold drinks. Monkeys populate the area so don't be alarmed to find one seated in your vehicle if you forget to roll up the windows. Orange picking: Befriend the locals at the resort to escort you to the orange orchards that line the area. It's worth the trip, with rows of trees emanating a strong, citrusy aroma. Buy them in dozens; they come for a steal. Sweet rush at Haldiram's: Not your conventional mithai shop, the glass-paneled three-storied restaurant cum sweetmeat shop is Nagpur's favourite snacking joint. u00a0 From their trademark Orange Barfi to the ladled-in-cream Pot Kulfi, there's enough to give you an instant high. Haldiram's Planet Food, Abhyankar Road Sitabuldi. Call: 0712 2681091 How To Get There Train: Nagpur is the nearest railway station (approximately 70 kms away). Among the 14 trains that ply from Mumbai, opt for the Duronto that reaches you in 11 hours and 30 minutes. Air: Nagpur is the nearest airport (approx. 70 kms away). Cab: Book a vehicle from a Nagpur-based operator to takeu00a0 you till Pench, and back to Nagpur. Where To Stay Sillari Rest House, Deputy Conservator of Forests, Nagpur Forest Division, Nagpur. Call: 0712-2524624. Non-AC room rates begin at Rs 1,000. Park Rules The Pench National Park is open to visitors from October 1 to June 20 and is shut during the rainy season (July- September). u00a0 Visiting hours are from 6 am to 11 am, and 3 pm to 6 pm. Light vehicles and 15-seater buses are allowed, and speed restrictions must be followed.