Slowly, slowly catch the monkey,' was the bizarre mantra reverberating through my oxygen-deprived brain as we approached 6,000 metres above seas level.
The climbers feel the strain, as they ascend in the swirling mist andu00a0
snow of the oxygen-deprived environment at a height of 6,000 metres.u00a0
Pics/ Stephen Cunliffe
Vikram Hirani, one of our Aquaterra mountain guides, had spoken these wise words as we fastened crampons onto our snow boots and roped up at the foot of Stok Glacier, five hours earlier. The words had been bouncing around inside my head ever since.u00a0
The altitude and exertion of trudging up the snowy slope ensured it was a constant struggle to suck in enough oxygen. I concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other as our six-man climbing party plodded onward and upward. As the first glow of dawn pushed back the inky darkness, we were all huffing chain smokers.
Our second guide was the experienced Chain Singh Chawhan. He was a soft-spoken young man with 18 successful summit bids under his belt, so on the rare occasions that he spoke, we all listened intently. u00a0"There is no rush, take your time, take small steps... like baby steps. This makes a huge difference and will help ensure you get to the top."u00a0
He finished with the cryptic advice: "The tortoise beats the hare up Stok Kangri every time!"
It almost never happened
A week before we were supposed to fly to Leh for our Stok Kangri climb, disaster struck Ladakh. The torrential rain that had uprooted millions across Pakistan spilled over the border into northern India. Massive thunderstorms and heavy rain triggered flash floods across Ladakh. Villages were washed away, landslides blocked roads, bridges were destroyed and hundreds of lives lost.u00a0
Frequent stream crossings en route to Stok Kangri base campu00a0
necessitate removing hiking boots and roughing it out in theu00a0ice-coldu00a0
glacial melt river water
Tour operators and travel agents across India scrambled to cancel their Ladakh expeditions. Within days, however, the situation in Leh had stabilised. A massive relief effort was underway and we decided to buck the cancellation trend and go on.u00a0
The sight of vehicles wedged inside buildings, massive boulders strewn along roads provided irrefutable evidence of the ferocity of the floods by the time they hit the downtown areas of the city. Higher up in the tourist zone, there was no indication of the calamity that had ravaged the city barely a week earlier, and the Ladakhi people were unanimously happy to see the few tourists who had stuck with their holiday plans.u00a0
Ladakh needs tourists
The words of a local shopkeeper summed up the local sentiment in the face of tragedy: "We all survive off tourists. Visitors come here and spend money and that is what sustains us during the long cold winter. Now everyone is staying away because of the floods and we don't know what we will do."u00a0
The bottom line is that the people who cancelled their visits out of respect for the Ladakhi people, not wanting to burden them during a difficult time, were actually exacerbating the problem. Now is the time to go to Ladakh. It is safe, uncrowded and, by spending your money up there, you can help the locals get back on their feet.
The acclimatisation trek
After a couple of days acclimatising and exploring monasteries, we loaded up the vehicles and followed a bumpy jeep track across the Indus and west to Zingchen where the trek kicked off. The road was washed out before the trailhead, which necessitated a couple of bonus hours of hiking on day one, and plenty of ice-cold stream crossings.u00a0
After trekking to Rumbak and over the Stok La at 4,890 metres, we made our way to Mounkarmo and onto Stok Kangri base camp. The scenery was breathtaking and the wildlife, plentiful. Blue sheep picked their way across the steep valley slopes while Himalayan marmots scurried down their burrows as we approached.u00a0
The base camp had a picturesque setting on a high altitude meadow surrounded by towering snowy peaks. This campsite became our base for the next four days as we adjusted to walking at altitude. We used the Stok Glacier above the camp to test our climbing equipment and practiced walking in snowshoes with crampons. It was necessary preparation for the summit bid that lay ahead.
The climb is not technical, but the challenge is the altitude and the lack of oxygen. A reasonable degree of fitness is important, but acclimatisation is the key to a 6,000-metre climb.
Entering the realm of the Gods
On a Friday, at 10 pm, we set off from camp on what would prove to be a 14-hour-long trip slog to the summit. We reached the foot of the glacier at midnight and stopped to attach crampons and rope up for the journey across the ice. Under the expert guidance of two seasoned climbing guides, we intrepid amateurs felt quietly confident as we jumped across a small crevice, and struck out over the ice. It was an unforgiving terrain of slippery ice interspersed with patches of exposed rock. Throughout the night we continued climbing in the dim glow of headlamps. Eventually, shortly before dawn, we reached an exposed ridge with steep drops on either side. u00a0After a careful traverse of the ridge, a final push over some treacherous rocky outcrops with loose scree carried us onto the 6,153 metre snowy summit.u00a0
Standing on top of the world
Our celebrations on reaching the peak were anything but raucous. Everyone collapsed with u00a0exhaustion. It took real effort to gather the tired troops for a victorious summit photo.u00a0
After half an hour at the top of Kanglacha, we turned and retraced our steps to a more hospitable altitude. Descending in the daylight, we enjoyed spectacular views down onto the glacier bowl and I couldn't help but notice that our route descended between the debris of two recent avalanches.
Climbing Stok Kangri was exhilarating and exhausting, but slowly, slowly we caught that monkey and were rewarded with the privilege of briefly standing on top of the world.
Best time to go:u00a0Ladakh's tourist season runs from June to mid-October, although most people favour the warmer months of July to September.
Where to stay:u00a0Two days acclimatising in Leh is recommended before setting off on the trek. Aquaterra provides hotel accommodation at the Mogol in Leh as part of the package. Thereafter, participants are accommodated in two-man tents. Meals are served as buffets. Hot showers are only available at the hotel in Leh. While on trek, toilets are in the form of rustic, environment-friendly, dry pit latrines.
What to do:u00a0Apart from an acclimatisation trek that is needed for the Stok Kangri ascent, visits to gompas (monasteries) and villages (like Stok) add a fascinating cultural dimension to any Ladakh expedition.
Trekking technicalities:u00a0The trekking camp in Leh should provide all technical climbing gear. u00a0In addition to personal items and toiletries, bring a good pairs of boots, wind/water-proof jacket, and headlamp, as well as a hat, sun block and sunglasses. Warm clothing, thermals and a cosy sleeping bag are essential.
