22 October,2010 06:59 AM IST | | Aviva Dharmaraj
Less than a month since it opened, moshe's bandra goes to town in its 'burban edition
In a city, where every other person's early-retirement plan is in some way linked to opening a restaurant, Moshe's popularity is worthy of at least two dinner-table conversations; fork preferably poised between stabfuls of the flavourful Gnocchetti (Rs 175).
Interiors of Moshe's Bandra. Pics/Nimesh Dave
Trudge up the treacherous staircase leading to this first-floor restaurant, and insist on a table that's not next to the door, for a meal that is likely to range from satisfying to memorable. It might also be a good idea to make a reservation.
Food talk
The spinach, white bean and feta dip (Rs 185) that Moshe later informed us is a popular choice, was served with a smattering of pumpkin seeds and lashings of olive oil. Creamy? Yes. Spectacular? Far from. Besides, we could have done with a more generous serving of bread.
The Harissa Chicken Skewers (Rs 285) marinated in a paste made of red chillies and vinegar that's left to mature, were polished off within minutes of landing on our table.
The Fresh Mushroom, Aubergine and Artichoke with Taleggio and Basil on Roasted Polenta (Rs 385) is an ideal choice for those tired of the pasta in a tomato/ cheese sauce option. Polenta is made from cornmeal and typically served in a generous gloop that resembles mashed potato, but since us desi diners don't dig "baby food", the polenta is grilled, cut into neat wedges, and served on the side. Turns out, Taleggio is an Italian cheese, and not the hot-blooded Italian we were hoping would bring us our meal.
Teething trouble
Speaking of bearers of hot meals, the service was the only part of our meal that proved disappointing. The server who took our order, seemed unfamiliar with the menu, keen on avoiding eye contact, and insistent we sit at the table by the door, as the other "empty" tables had all been "reserved". Soon enough, a foreigner (who had not made a reservation) was swept inside, and we had no other choice but to believe that we live in a land of reverse racism.
There's only one way to cope with disheartening realities like that: dessert. And so, as we sipped on the refreshing Melonade (Rs 140), made with "in-house syrups", choking back a sad sob, we sought acceptance in L'orange (Rs 150): a flourless cake, oozing chocolate, some orange juice and ample amounts of warmth.
Moshe's Bandra seems here to stay. Despite prices that veer towards "expensive", and service that is, as yet, far from smooth, the reason we return ufffd apart from the food ufffd is because everyone loves a great comeback story. Bon appetito!
AT: Moshe's, 133, Hill Road, above Nature's Basket, Bandra (W).
Call 26425555.
Moshe's Bandra didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for its meals.
