Korean chic: How fashion from K-drama and K-pop is influencing Indian wardrobes

On her Instagram posts and videos, digital content creator and fashion enthusiast Radhika Bangia often channels the styles of the South Korean singer Jennie from the girl band BLACKPINK and actress Seo Yea Ji from the drama ‘It's Okay to Not Be Okay'. The self-confessed Korean entertainment buff is regularly seen wearing her bangs in signature K-drama style and flaunting flared or pleated skirts, cute crop tops in pastel colours and oversized checked shirts with military or chunky K-pop-inspired shoes.

She comes up with these looks by recreating what stands out in K-dramas and K-pop music videos as per her own preferences. "I started exploring and experimenting with Korean fashion after I started listening to BLACKPINK, BTS, Hwasa, TWICE, etc. and watched K-Dramas as well," shares Bangia, whose K-chic has helped her win about 1.6 million followers.

The Indian fashion industry saw the earliest impressions of the rising influence of Korean culture driven by the Korean wave phenomenon. Baggy streetwear outfits, cute crop tops, checked and pleated skirts, button-up dresses, oversized coats, cardigans and chunky shoes have been some of the trendy examples of Seoul-inspired attire noted in the Indian fashion market in recent years.

"I think the rise of Korean culture and its impact is a result of the global zeitgeist. This is mainly caused by K-dramas and the cult following of the bands BTS and BLACKPINK. With social media proliferation and real time global interaction further spread the fandom and the youth of our nation was not left behind," reckons Aniket Satam, designer and founder of Pink Porcupines.

The pandemic, during which people spent time exploring content from across the world on various OTT platforms, caused a nationwide surge in Korean entertainment consumption, he adds. The K-pop music video ‘Ice Cream' by BLACKPINK featuring Selena Gomez was one of the inspirations for Satam's latest collection.

Not to forget, December 2019 was also when the popular K-drama ‘Crash Landing on You' released, setting the stage for the contemporary Korean wave in India and the obsession for Korean entertainment even among the lot who were previously not so intrigued by it. In a short time, the fandom and obsession with Korean culture caught the attention of designers, stylists and artists in the fashion industry too.

Comfort fashion and growing acceptance of gender fluid clothing

Aniket Satam's 2022 collection showcasing melting ice cream pattern and retro style is inspired by BLACKPINK's music video 'Ice Cream' featuring Selena Gomez. Image credit: Aniket Satam

According to Satam, the revival of the Y2K fashion, which has its origin in the late 1990s and early 2000s, has further fostered admiration for the Korean aesthetic; something that appeals to Generation Z and millennials across the globe.

"K-pop fashion is very easy and comfortable. Artists wear such styles so they can perform seamlessly and hence, one can see the hip hop influence in the silhouette style and aesthetics. Androgynous mood and gender fluid details are becoming a norm as key influencers from K-pop culture are sporting this vibe. It is more like cultural appropriation from the queer community," adds Satam

Comfortable streetwear with bold and stylish prints is one of the defining aspects of Korean fashion, much of which originates from South Korea's capital city Seoul. As the K-wave has its roots in Seoul, Shivani Gowda, whose blog ‘IVA' particularly focuses on K-fashion, believes that that city is quickly emerging as one of the fashion capitals of the world, similar to Paris or Milan. This is especially evident as celebrities in India such as Ananya Pandey, Armaan Malik, Deepika Padukone and others are seen sporting Seoul-inspired trends.

"Street styles are very popular in Korea. People in India often admire the airport looks of Bollywood celebs. The Korean spin involves baggy pants, oversized shirts and bucket hats. Seeing how K-pop and K-dramas are on the upswing right now, this style is sticking around longer than ever," says Gowda.

As K-pop fashion goes global, designers in India have also started exploring that trend in response to the growing fandom. In 2019, Shivan & Narresh, showcased their collection ‘Seoul Series' at the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, inspired by modern art, including the work of South Korean painter Park Seo Bo and the colour palette specific to the city of Seoul.

Satam's 2022 collection takes cues from K-pop music videos, the personal wardrobes of the artists, especially the band BLACKPINK. While the Kawaii prints and feminine patterns are influenced by Korean street style, the melting Ice cream pattern and strong retro details of the 50s are straight out of the American diner details. Both of which are prominent details of the visuals of the music video ‘Ice Cream' starring Selena Gomez.

K-fashion trends' prediction for 2022

Gowda estimates the following Korean fashion trends that can take a front seat in Indian fashion 2022:

1. Ribbed and knitted clothing

2. Denim baggy jeans

3. Pleated skirts

4. High sole shoes

5. Minimal clothing

6. Crop/short Tops

7. Ankle length pants

8. Short dresses

9. Pullovers and Jackets

10. Fashionable masks

In terms of patterns, Satam suggests quirky eclectic prints, bold graphics, pop colour blocks and retro silhouettes are going to be in trend. As a lot of Korean street style is influenced by the Japanese Harajuku street fashion in Tokyo, known for its Kawaii culture of cute and childlike aesthetics, sweet Lolita-esque details such as Gingham checks, feminine bows and frills in outfits along with cute hairbands, scrunchies and minimalist earrings would also be in vogue.

In addition to soft girl aesthetics, Bangia says grunge outfits, inspired by rock music of the 1980s, would also make a comeback. Grunge fashion including, flannel shirts, ripped denims, combat boots, platform sneakers, jackets and hoodies are some of the essential elements of contemporary K-pop fashion.

Radhika Bangia wearing crop top (left), pleated skirt and BTS shoes (right). Image credit: Radhika Bangia

In India, a trend that first emerged from the north eastern states in the late 1980s has now taken a grip over metros in other parts of the country too, especially among teenagers and young adults.

"The Gen Z and Millennials are totally gripped by the influence of Korean artists. This age group also has the disposable income to invest in gratifying their needs and desires. In India too, at least in metros- the younger crowd is starting early and earning for themselves, which is enabling them to spend generously on themselves. The trend seems to grow until a new influence from another culture or region emerges," says Satam.

If you are someone wanting to try a Korean look, Satam suggests quick tips to give a K-touch to your everyday outfit:

1. Accessories are at the heart of the Korean look. Coordinating one's ensemble with purses not just completes the attire, but also creates a new look.

2. Cool statement hair accessories are a must have. Think about cute hair pins and coordinated hair bands. Gossip Girl, but make it Kawaii.

3. Invest in vintage jackets: These include printed souvenir jackets to 80s style windbreakers. Explore thrift stores and online stores for some original styles and add some cool pre-owned love to your wardrobe.

5. Cute prints are the key: Try fun, cute conversational patterns and childlike graphics. Artsy patterns and bold pop designs work equally well.

6. Gender fluid styles and androgynous details are a must. Pick something from your bae's closet and own the look - from oversized blazers to DIY shirt-dresses. The boys can layer their partner's oversized blouses with vests and grunge denims.

According to Bangia, "To get a quick Seoul inspired look - clip on wispy bangs if you don't want to cut your hair since bangs are super Korean. Additionally, baggy blue jeans with a cute crop top work well too."

For current winter outfits, Gowda suggests knitted and ribbed fabrics, lighter cardigans are best to play with. The muted colour palette brings charms to any outfit if paired nicely.

"If you're looking for a casual outfit without overdoing it, an all-white outfit like a fleece coat or a hoodie is a great choice. It gets you a classic look and still remains on the less is more side, peculiarly Korean," she adds.

Read the second part of the series here:

Going the Hallyu way: Why more Mumbaikars are learning Korean