International Kimchi Day 2023: How the Korean wave has fuelled the love for the ‘achaar’

Mumbai-based Neha Tyagi loves kimchi. The traditional dishes and words have been a part of her vocabulary ever since she joined the Korean wave in 2018. She joined many other Indians, who ended up falling in love with not only K-pop but the whole culture. She explains, "I started watching K-Dramas in 2018 and that is when I got introduced to kimchi and it was followed by the whole Mukbang trend. In K-Dramas, food gets a lot of importance, and the actors are eating on screen. There was kimchi everywhere and it looked scrumptious."

From then on, every Korean dish became irresistible for Tyagi, and kimchi was the easiest to fall in love with because of the simplicity of the ingredients and the unique complexity of flavours. "I enjoy the texture of kimchi. It adds a lot of freshness and crunch to a dish. It is sour, salty and has a pungency that I quite enjoy. I think that is the part that gets my mouth watering and keeps me going back for more. I often eat it on its own instead of using it as an accompaniment to a dish," she beams.

Falling in love with kimchi
Every year, International Kimchi Day is celebrated on November 22, after Korea amended the Kimchi Industry Promotion Act in 2020. On a cultural note, the day coincides with the period during which kimchi is largely prepared in the country, as it is the start of the winter season. Interestingly, the kimjang cultural tradition (which is the act of Koreans collectively making kimchi) is also a part of UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and that showcases how important the dish is to the culture.

With the Korean wave in India growing over the last five years, Tyagi's love for the delicacy also highlights how popular it has become around the country. So, what is kimchi? For the uninitiated, kimchi is traditional orange-green coloured Korean banchan (side-dish) consisting of salted and fermented vegetables. It is usually made from cabbage and radish, along with gochugaru (chilli powder), spring onions, garlic, ginger and different kinds of vegetables. Commonly eaten with rice, it is also enjoyed with various kinds of soups and stews, adding an extra layer of flavour to the dining experience.

With Mumbai boasting quite a few Korean restaurants, Tyagi has understandably eaten kimchi at the likes of Hengbok in Bandra and Sun and Moon in Lower Parel. More specifically, she has enjoyed the radish and nappa cabbage varieties, while also having the luxury of friends getting back the specialty from Korea for her. While she hasn't attempted making the dish at home, kimchi is actively making its way to people's plates not only through Korean restaurants but also others who want to experiment with their food, and Yazu is one of them.

Innovating with kimchi
At the city restaurant, chef Vadim Shin says he has embraced the traditional flavours of kimchi while experimenting with different ingredients and techniques. He further explains, "From kimchi-infused sauces and dressings to incorporating kimchi into fusion dishes like kimchi tacos or kimchi fried rice, I have found innovative ways to bring this fermented delight to new and diverse palates."

Kimchi takes Prashant Issar, who is currently a consultant chef reminisce about his days working Taj Mahal Hotel, as he says kimchi was popular at Golden Dragon. Many years later, now that they are at the premium pan-Asian restaurant Eight, he has done something different with the help of the duo -- chef Bharat and Rajesh. "We have created an exciting range of kimchi using raw papaya, radish, carrot, and cucumber ensuring the tarty sharpness alongside the lightly sweet flavour, and serve it uniquely with our in-house made scallion sauce, chilli garlic sauce and dim sum sauce."

So, what makes kimchi unique? "Kimchi is unique for its bold and complex flavour profile, achieved through a fermentation process that results in a perfect balance of sour, salty, and umami flavours. Its versatility and ability to enhance any dish make it a staple in Korean cuisine and a beloved condiment worldwide. Its health benefits, including boosting digestion and immunity, only add to its unique appeal," adds Shin.

As a chef, there is a lot more that the dish offers as it opens up a lot of room for experimentation. Shin adds, "It has a unique combination of flavours and textures. The fermentation process gives it a tangy, slightly sour taste that is incredibly complex and addictive. The variety of ingredients such as cabbage, radishes, and spices, create a harmonious blend of sweet, salty, and spicy notes. The crunchiness adds an enjoyable texture, making it a versatile and exciting dish."

Like Shin, even Michelle Vazifdar, founder of city-based restaurant Jia in Colaba believes kimchi is distinct in more than one way. Apart from its unique flavours that are pronounced because of the addition of chilli pepper, garlic, ginger, and fish sauce, and the entire fermentation process, she says it also has many health benefits and is extremely versatile. She explains, "Kimchi is not only delicious but also nutritious. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, fibre, and beneficial bacteria from the fermentation process, known as probiotics. These probiotics promote gut health and have been linked to several health benefits, including improved digestion and a strengthened immune system."

The versatility of kimchi is reflected in the fact that it can be used in various ways. "It can be enjoyed on its own as a side dish or incorporated into numerous recipes, such as soups, stews, stir-fries, or even as a topping for tacos or burgers. Its bold and flavourful nature adds depth and complexity to many dishes," adds Vazifdar. So, when the city-based restauranteur says the South Mumbai restaurant has created two dishes owing to the Kimchi craze, namely Kimchi fried rice and Kimchi dumplings - the Korean food lover in us is happy.

The dishes are evidently due to the evolution not only of the diner's palate in Mumbai but also the cuisine and its popularity in the city. In fact, Vazifdar attributes it to the introduction of chilli pepper, variations in ingredients, modernisation, global popularity and fusion with different cuisines. Among the many changes during its evolution, the change in ingredients has been the most important one. He explains, "Historically, traditional kimchi was made with napa cabbage, garlic, and radishes, but now we see variations with different vegetables and even fruits."

Additionally, the city chefs say there are modern versions of kimchi that are made with different types of seasonings, such as seafood, and even non-traditional ingredients like gochujang. This evolution showcases the innovation and creativity of chefs as they experiment with flavours and embrace global culinary influences while still maintaining the essence of kimchi.

Riding the Korean wave
Interestingly, the food by itself has seen an incremental change at the micro level. However, it is hard to ignore how the Korean wave, which started from K-Pop and bands like BTS has expanded into Korean dramas over the years. It has even influenced the popularity of food, like Tyagi points out, which is a common feature in the Korean dramas that are being watched by thousands of fans in India.

While the Mumbaikar says more people popularly call it Korean achaar (pickle), the fact that it can also be a complete dish in itself makes it unique. It is also why she readily admits, "I 100 per cent think the Korean wave has made kimchi more popular. The fact that it goes well with our palate which is used to Indian food, she says, makes the taste approachable because it is familiar.

In fact, Nicole Fernandes, another Mumbaikar, who agrees with Tyagi about the appeal due to the Korean wave, says kimchi is like a gateway to Korean cuisine. She shares, "You can't go wrong with kimchi. It is also really similar to Indian pickles/achaar because it adds that spicy and tangy flavour when you mix it up with anything." Fernandes was first introduced to the Korean dish one year before Tyagi, when she visited a Korean restaurant in the city, and couldn't stop munching on the dish, along with other side dishes. However, it was one particular instance that made her fall in love with the dish. "I had tried Buldak Ramyeon once and decided to add kimchi on top of it and that honestly tasted so much better and that is what made me like it. It just blends perfectly with any dish be it BBQ or plain rice, kimchi makes it tasty," she adds.

Even Shin agrees with Tyagi. He deep dives to explain, "The Korean Wave, also known as Hallyu, has undoubtedly played a significant role in introducing more people to Korean cuisine and kimchi. The increased popularity of K-pop, K-dramas, and Korean films has sparked curiosity about Korean culture in general, including its food. As people explore Korean entertainment, they become more interested in trying the dishes they see on screen, like kimchi." This cultural exchange, he believes, has not only led to a broader appreciation for Korean food worldwide but has also encouraged chefs to incorporate Korean flavours and techniques into their culinary creations and Mumbai is no stranger to that.

Vazifdar, on the other hand, emphasises the other aspects of the Korean wave influencing the food movement and in the process the popularity of kimchi. She explains, "The appeal of Korean cuisine lies in its unique blend of flavours, fresh ingredients, and vibrant presentation." The fact that Korean food offers a diverse range of dishes, including well-known favorites such as bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables and meat), bulgogi (marinated grilled beef), and kimchi (fermented vegetables) makes the cuisine a go-to cuisine for many people. "These dishes, along with others like Korean BBQ, tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), and jjigae (stews), have become quite popular in many countries globally." India is no stranger to these dishes, and kimchi is only the tip of the iceberg.

As Fernandes highlights people who love it, can create many dishes from kimchi apart from Kimchi fried rice, like Kimchi pancake, then Kimchi dumplings Kimchi stew among others. "You can have a whole dish out of kimchi or just eat it as a side dish. It is simple to make anything out of kimchi at home and it doesn't take a lot of effort or time to cook and that is what is unique about it," she concludes