03 August,2011 06:50 AM IST | | Anjana Vaswani
Long associated with divinity in Hinduism, the colour blue (neel) is now slated to become synonymous with divine food, thanks to the overhauled menu at Tote on the Turf
The ambience is largely unchanged at Tote, except for a canopy that has been put up in the outdoor area. Even if the monsoon-related modification is just transient and has little to do with the new Nawabi cuisine that has been introduced here, one appreciates the romantic aura conjured up by the gentle percussion of raindrops and the soft luminescence that pours out of a tealight chandelier strung up at the centre of the space.
Raan E Mukhtar
Inside, not much seems to have changed, save for the menu, which has been completely reconstructed to accommodate the Indian palate. Few among us, after all, are endowed with the Bear Grylls-esque spirit of adventure it must take to bite into emu or rabbit, but give us curry and we can certainly do restaurateur Rahul Akerkar's culinary expertise some justice.
That, evidently, is a fact that Akerkar has duly recognised because even though the succulent roasted Raan E Mukhtar (Rs 1,185) we sampled was perfectly complete on its own, simply served with slices of roasted batter-coated tart apples to complement the natural flavour of the tender meat, the dry dish also came with a bowl of incredibly light yet intensely-flavoured gravy. We loved it just as much with the sauce as without the addition, but having relished a Tawa Warqi Paratha (Rs 95), with which we literally wiped up every last drop of the meat-stock-gravy, we really couldn't complain.
That the Kakori Kabab (Rs 485) melted in the mouth came as no big surprise, but when a vegetarian Basnu Singhada Kabab (Rs 385) delivered equally on taste and texture, so much so, that blind-folded we may have had a hard time figuring out if this was a vegetarian dish at all, we simply had to have a word with the chef.
Originally from Lucknow, Chef Mukhtar Qureshi has previously been associated with numerous top-notch Indian restaurants. He was so proud of his creations, not only was he happy to answer our questions, he generously rewarded our curiosity by detailing entire recipes. Assuring us that the vegetarian kabab was simply a minced water chestnuts and bamboo shoots patty, the chef insisted we try the Kali Dal, in addition to the extraordinarily light Dal Palak Ki Katli (Rs 285) that already had us smacking our lips. It was exquisiteu00a0-- smooth, creamy and bursting with flavour, with just the slightest, yet unmistakable, hint of real ghee. The Chef also recommended the Khubani (Rs 285) dessert, an apricot halwa that had our companion combating against us for the last scrape of the bowl. The perfect end to the perfect meal, (save for the bill, which gave us quite a start what with a 10% service charge, 20% VAT on wine, 3% service tax and 5% VAT on liquor added on).
Although we didn't get to try it because it's only available on Sundays as a special treat, we're guessing the Haleem (a painstakingly cooked mutton and wheat porridge, that Akerkar informs us, takes 6 to 8 hours to prepare) is likely to be another reason to stop by again.
At: Neel, opposite gates 5 and 6, Keshvrao Khadye Marg, Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Mahalaxmi.
Call: 61577777
Timings: 11 am to 1.30 am
Neel didn't know we were there. THE GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for meals.
