Maharashtrian chefs revisit memories of Dussehra celebrations with family

Shrikhand and puran poli; (right) Reshma Mane

After the colourful festival of nine Navratri days, we celebrate Dussehra today; an occasion to remember the triumph of good over evil. In the spirit of the season, we invite two Maharashtrian chefs to give us a sense of festivities in our home state. For chef Akash Deshpande, chef de cuisine at Nava, Dussehra is all about getting together with the family and having a good time. "It's an all-vegetarian affair with puri, potato sabzi and shrikhand, which is cooked with a lot of love by my mother," he shares. The chef reminisces how, as a kid, he would be woken up at the crack of the dawn like most Maharashtrian children, for a special bath with ubtan powder that's made from turmeric, gram flour, sandalwood, rose water, and milk. "I never liked waking up early in the morning, so my mom [Sarita] used to carry me straight to the shower," the chef laughs.

The main element of the festival is the puja. "Apart from decorating the home, and the main door with beautiful floral torans made of leaves from Ashoka tree and orange genda flowers, the puja is sacrosanct. We worship all sorts of tools and equipment that are believed to bring prosperity, or are considered auspicious or we think need blessings. This even includes cars," says home chef Reshma Mane of Every Aroma. Echoing the thought is Deshpande, who says, "We worship tools, including utensils like kitchen knives. The idea is to pray to the tools, to bring us prosperity or provide for us."

Sarita Deshpande, mother of (right) chef Akash Deshpande

"The kitchen is always buzzing from morning, when puran poli, warm milk, puri, sabzi, shrikhand are prepared, which are served as naivedya in the house temple. Only after this, it is consumed by the family," informs Mane, who says that it's like the beginning of the Diwali season, so it's more about getting together with your loved ones, getting all decked up in your fineries. In Mane's family, the Dussehra meal is served on a banana leaf.

For Deshpande too, the festival is a kind of announcement of the onset of Diwali, "My mom, on this day, makes one or two types of Diwali farsan like karanji, chakli and shankar padi, to announce that the pre-Diwali preparations have started," he shares, adding that though traditionally, the community does not prepare ukadiche modaks, but it has been a family tradition. Funnily, none of these delicacies are prepared by Deshpande, as his mother and him have, what best can be called ‘creative differences'. "She keeps telling me to prepare all sorts of ‘fancy' dishes in my restaurant kitchen. I am not allowed in her kitchen!" He laughs, adding that it's all about being present with the family on the special day.

"It's one happy occasion of eating simple, but delicious food, praying, and most importantly, being with the people you love," Mane concludes.

Eat The Festive Way

The Guide's top picks to eat out this Dussehra

Fusion is fun
Try this delectable vegetarian Navratri chaat board by Sage & Olio carefully crafted by fusing Indian and modern twists. Relish dishes like pyaaz kachori, Sichuan chutney, basil mathri or basil namak paara, dahi bade with tropical salsa, cranberry sriracha chutney, Thai basil imli ki chutney, edamame kanajee, papdi, batata avocado topping for the papdi, fruit chaat and papdi.

Till Mid-November
Log on to @sageandolio
Call 7797462273 (this has to be pre-ordered. Delivery is available across the city)
Cost Rs 3,500 plus taxes

Thali experience
End the Navratri festival with a special festive thali that has delicious dishes like kadi patta chaas, sendha namak aloo chips, cholai ke ladoo, sabudana tikki, samak ke chawal ki khichdi, paneer tamatar rassa, singhare ke atte ki poori and more.

On Today; 12 pm to 1.30 am
At Badmaash, B 12, Ghanshyam Chamber, Veera Industrial Estate, Andheri Link Road, Andheri West.
Call 7400491473 (for reservations)
Cost Rs 999 plus taxes (per person)

Desi goodness
Relish a luxurious spread of roasted makhana, banana chips, jackfruit chips, sabudana khichdi, sabudana vada, sabudana thalipeeth, kuttu paratha, badam halwa, makhana kheer, fresh fruits and more.

On Today; Dinner 7.30 pm to 11 pm
At Kangan, The Westin Mumbai Garden City, Oberoi Garden City, Goregaon East.
Call 9004661082 (for reservations)
Cost Rs 2,100 plus taxes (per person)

Bengali affair
Celebrate the festive spirit by relishing dishes from this delicious Bengali menu created by Anusuya Banerjee. In this limited thali, they serve authentic Bengali delicacies like jhuri aloo bhaja, machher chop, chingri phookopi, sabudana khichdi, mishti doi, bhanpa lish, nolen gurer rasogulla and other delights.

On Today; 12 pm to 11.30 pm
At Ishaara, level 3, Palladium Mall, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel West.
Call 8657531989 (for reservations)
Cost Rs 1,299 plus taxes (per person)

Just like home
Celebrate the festive season with some delicious North Indian delicacies like hara bhara kabab, pindi chole and signature dal makhani. The show stealer though, is chaaji di choori, a special dessert made with hot and flaky paratha, lovingly crumbled and served with generous helpings of jaggery and butter.

On Today; 12 pm to 12 am
At Pritam Da Dhaba, Hotel Midtown Pritam, Pritam Estates, Dadar East.
Call 8591422913
Cost Rs 1,500

SoBo soiree
Here's your chance to eat delicious festive food at one of south Mumbai's most popular joints. Relish their tried-and-tested sama ka pulao and kadhi, Bhopal sabzi, aloo sabzi, kesar shrikhand and cucumber and rajgira puri.

On Today; 11.30 am to 10.30 pm
At Soam, Sadguru Sadan, ground floor, Babulnath Road, Babulnath, Chowpatty.
Call 9819990400 (for reservations)
Cost Rs 590 plus taxes (per person)