A visit to Thattekal sanctuary near Kochin reveals a flock of treasures for avid bird watchers. And a comfortable homestay adds more chirp to the charm
A visit to Thattekal sanctuary near Kochin reveals a flock of treasures for avid bird watchers. And a comfortable homestay adds more chirp to the charmShe was thin and short, around 45 years old, neatly clad in a sari, spoke English haltingly but managed it pretty well.u00a0 That she was also knowledgeable on flora, fauna, environment and ecosystem of the area, as well as household and housekeeping activities, was to be discovered later.
I met her on a road leading to a nearby forest. I had just got down from the taxi with my friend to stretch a bit and inquire about a bird sanctuary and overnight stay.u00a0 As I walked towards the tiny shops along the riverside, she started movingu00a0 towards me very decisively and said, "You want hotel? I give you homestay. Registered homestay very near".u00a0
Obviously, she had the knack of reading people's mind. I was still trying to figure out what she had uttered but she continued: "You see the place and decide... come with me, it is not far."u00a0
I was reluctant to walk any further but she, like a good salesperson, coaxed me and my friend. We started following her while our other friends waited in the taxi, wondering where we were off to.u00a0
All of us had gone to the little-known Thattekal sanctuary in Kerala, also known as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, some 60 kilometres east of Kochin. The sanctuary was notified in 1983 on the recommendation of Dr Salim Ali, a renownedu00a0 ornithologist, hence its name.u00a0
Following my escort on an incline, I was already huffing after five minutes of walking. We crossed the pond it looked picturesque with a few herons and egrets wading around the edges and voila,u00a0 there it was.u00a0 Nestled behind the tall trees, a lovely two-storey house. She took us to the first floor and opened the rooms. Recently constructed, the rooms were neat, with comfortable beds and a couple of chairs for lounging in the little balcony. So we decided on the homestay which turned out to be economical too. As I settled in one of the chairs, the woman helpfully offered, "You tired? No problem; I go and bring your friends." And she left. Before long, the taxi and the friends were at the gate, and she even helped to carry a few suitcases up the stairs. Phewu2026 she seemed to be a Jeeves and a Jack (Jane) of all trades rolled into one.
And, her name was Sudha.
"You need food? I make dinner for you," she offered shortly after we had settled down and refreshed ourselves.
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Over a simple hot meal, Sudha floored us with her knowledge of animals and birds and the trees, both in the jungle as well as in her backyard. Yes, there were coconut palms, banana, jackfruit and mango trees, as well as shrubs of spices like back pepper and green chillies, and even cocoa pods growing in the backyard. She narrated how she had been chased by an elephant and had to keep running for nearly half an hour to save herself. Leopards and bears had also been sighted, she informed, while I made a mental note to close the balcony door before going to bed just in case a nocturnal visitor decided to make an appearance.
A spotting scope on a tripod in the verandah attracted my attention and she quickly said: "You want guide? My brother's son is good... I call him tomorrow. He take you bird-watching." And then "this is his" she said proudly, pointing towards the spotting scope.
Up I was early in the morning along with my friends, ready for a bird-watching session in one of the 'richest bird habitats' of dense tropical evergreen and deciduous forest with large plantations of teak, mahogany and rosewood on the northern banks of Periyar river.u00a0
When we reached a little clearing on an elevated rock, other groups of birdwatchers were already in the sanctuary. Sudesh, our guide, had set up his spotting scope. The bird orchestra of varied calls was in full play as I tried to soak in the sights, sounds and smells of the sylvan surroundings.u00a0
Nature's carpet of rusty brown leaves covered the entire path. The morning dew was still visible, glistening on the dry leaves scattered on the edges, untrampled by Nikes and Reeboks. Every step I took made a soft rustling sound.u00a0 Was I disturbing nature and its creatures, I wondered. The birds didn't seem to think so as they continued their chirping, singing, chasing and flirting. A couple of golden orioles flew past while a drongo sat on a barren branch, waiting for his buddies to join him.u00a0 The rose-ringed parakeets were very noisy, playing pranks like little kids. There were crimson-throated barbets, shrikes and sunbirds, a woodpecker and a few bee-eaters.
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Their colourful plumage could be viewed up close through the spotting scope.u00a0
My favourite sighting, however, was the dusky-brown Sri Lankan frogmouth owl. A little off the main path, in a cluster of low trees, was its roosting pad. This nocturnal creature was perched on one of the branches, sitting still. And, it did not require any gadget to get a good view of this wide-mouthed bird as I could get as close as two meters and take as many pictures as I wanted.u00a0 According tou00a0 Sudesh, a pair was supposed to roost in that area in fact, the birders who had gone before us actually saw the pair but obviously the companion did not like the continuous flow of visitors and had moved away by the time we reached. The bird sitting there, however, seemed to enjoy the audience and was happy to patiently pose for all.u00a0
The frogmouth owl, I was informed, hunted at night and spent the day roosting on tree branches close to the tree trunk. Still and upright, the owl generally remained well camouflaged.u00a0 Interestingly, unlike the owls who caught prey with their talons, the frogmouth used its beak to catch beetles, cicadas, mice and other small prey.
The few hours spent in the forest were enlightening. As we walked back, I noticed a strange tree with reddish trunk and green branches and upper foliage. A closer look revealed a flowery creeper that had climbed up the tree, making an interesting picture. Soon one could sense a calm in the jungle with most of the birds having settled down after their breakfast and chit-chat.
Our breakfast too was ready in Sudha's dining room, with filter coffee aroma inviting the olfactory senses. It was time to leave for the next destination and as we thanked Sudha and bid 'goodbye', she gave me a visiting card with the final words: "Send your friends to me.
I take good care."
Sure, Sudha's enterprising skills, PR and customer care could put to shame many a five-star outfit.u00a0 "You'll go a long way, and good luck," I said softly.
