Kerala: Head to this art retreat to explore the state's rich culture & art forms

When the rains drenched Mumbairsquos streets earlier this week they might have also washed away many Mumbaikarsrsquo daydreams of enjoying a calm scenic monsoon in the city While the rain gods are still in a mood the wisest decision this monsoon we believe is to head straight to Godrsquos own country Earlier this month this writer spent a weekend at an arts and crafts village tucked in Keralarsquos Kotakkal town that has all the makings of a perfect rainy day retreatVisitors at a live pottery session in the villageSpread across 20 acres in Iringal village Sargaalaya Kerala Arts and Crafts Village is home to local artisans practising ageold art forms in its spacious premises facing the calm backwaters of the Kuttiyadi river Only a few of these practices will survive the test of time wersquore told Wersquore right in timeWandering in hallways marked by laterite walls carved pillars and sloped terracotta roofs above us wersquore greeted by a young man beaming with joy as if hersquod seen an old friend in us Wersquove never met but that doesnrsquot seem to matter around here The young man is Arun AK a speech and hearing impaired terracotta artist from Maniyur He invites us into his workshop one of the many that dot the villageArun AK works on a hornbill sculpture PICSDEVASHISH KAMBLE right Sundaresan Payyanurrsquos recreation of St Angelo Fort Church KannurInside Arun is working on a lifesized model of a hornbill surrounded by completed models of many more wild creatures Hersquos most excited about the shiny rooster it won him a State Award in 2021 In his outdoor warehouse we spot an intricately carved terracotta Ganesha idol If we had a tinge of trust in our airlines itrsquod make for a timely gift to take home given that our city has only recently imposed a ban on Plaster of Paris idols Arun AKrsquos clay rooster won him the Kerala State AwardArun is not the only artist turning a new page at the village Managed by Uralungal Labour Contract Cooperative Society ULCCS a workersrsquo cooperative that was established in 1925 to uplift unemployed youth from the margins nearly 60 artisans call the village home ldquoIt wasnrsquot easy to convince these artists who were scattered all around Kerala to leave their hometowns and converge here We sat down with them and explained how wider exposure will only help them thriverdquo reveals Rajesh TK senior general manager SargaalayaWood carver Sundaresan Payyanur for instance is content that his works now sell well enough to not worry about his household expenses His piece de resistance is a detailed recreation of the St Angels Fort Church in Kannur Next door artist Rineesh NMrsquos Kerala mural showcase is an oasis of colours A painting portraying Lord Krishna in a scene from the Mahabharata is hung right across a glass encased piece depicting The Last Supper A subtle reminder that wersquore still in KeralaRineesh NMrsquos Kerala Muralstyle depiction of The Last SupperWhile we settle down for a chat with handloom weaver NC Ayappan our fellow visitors seem to have realised the village is not just an art haven but a shopperrsquos paradise too Huts selling bamboo mats hemp handbags wooden toys and upcycled jewelry pull them in Others are drawn in by the aroma of local delicacies that are ready to be served alongside Keralastyle sadhya at the establishmentrsquos cafeteria But Ayappan isnrsquot bothered The frail 80yearold is quietly working his ancestral handloom weaving cora grass mats rdquoThis is all I have I wonrsquot stop until my body gives inrdquo he smilesNC Ayappan works his handloomOver a chat with ULCCS chairman Remeshan Palery later over piping hot pazhampori banana fritters we learn of the cooperativersquos principles ldquoYou cannot negate the importance of finances in todayrsquos age But at the end of the day it is people honest ones at that which can cause change Sargaalaya stands as a testament to that beliefrdquo he sharesRemeshan Palery and Rajesh TKOn the drive back we do the mental math behind possibly building such a village in Mumbai Our driver briefly pauses the dancey Mollywood tune playing on the radio to tell us about the new sixlane main road wersquore almost gliding on ldquoDoes Mumbai have even bigger smoother roads sirrdquo he enquires We know better than to lie in Godrsquos Own CountryNEED TO KNOWAT Sargaalaya Vadakara Kotakkal Iringal KeralaHOW TO REACHArrive in Kannur via direct flight from Mumbai Take Thalassery Irikkur Road to NH 66 Follow NH 66 to Kottakkal Road in Iringal Kannur is also wellconnected by Indian Railwaysrun train routesTO BOOK A VISITsargaalayain ulccsltdcomAround IringalHead to these attractions to explore beyond SargaalayaKunjali Marakkar MuseumThis museum in Payyoli nearly two kilometres from Iringal stands in memory of the Marakkar naval warriors of the 16th CenturyAT Payyoli KotakkalTIME 9 am to 5 amKolavi BeachSpanning four kilometres this pristine beach is dubbed Turtle Beach by locals for its occasional Olive Ridley sightingsAT Kolavipalam Road IringalatOptionskeyd0ddb8ef8f1a62a8cdd22fac27fc5ea7formatiframeheight90width728params