Be it the English, the Portuguese or the French, European colonists made an indelible mark in the evolution of the food Indians eat today. The Portuguese, in particular, have major contributions to Indian food along the West coast. They introduced the potato, cauliflower, okra, pineapple, papaya, cashew nut and tomato; these ingredients now form an intrinsic part of the cuisines of various Indian communities. Mumbai (with Bassein or Vasai, as the main port) experienced several changes under their rule, and the East Indian community is a living testament to history, preserving centuries’-old traditions while adapting to the modern world.

Himalayan trout chinchoni. PICS COURTESY/MICHAEL SWAMY