This Bandra restaurant revives Malaysian flavours with warmth and heart

A few months ago we were at the same address wowed by Miss Margot a chic upscale lounge Cut to now mdash the space is reborn as The Penang Table a Malaysian restaurant Naturally we must address the elephant in the room Why did it shut down ldquoThe idea was to create something distinct from what the market already hadrdquo says veteran restaurateur Kishore DF admitting ldquoMiss Margot was meant to be a highend lounge mdash detailed beautifully executed noholdsbarredCoconut Water Noodle SaladWe took our time with every aspect from design to cocktails But Bandra has several excellent bars Todayrsquos audience doesnrsquot want to dress up for a midweek night out and that became the challenge Ultimately the decision to close was purely commercial mdash characterised by high capital high rent and high running costs I didnrsquot have the bandwidth to sustain it long enough to break evenrdquo Now hersquos back to the bistro format similar to Tanjore Tiffin Room TTR but with a longer service window and a relaxed rhythm ldquoGood food and drinks are a givenrdquo reasons cofounder Parth Purandare ldquobut itrsquos hospitality that builds loyaltyrdquoSignature Roti SarangIn Malaysia dishes are often served on plastic plates or banana leaves here theyrsquove been reimagined for an urban bistro setting with refined crockery and thoughtful plating The kitchen stays true to its core mdash a rendang remains authentic mdash while adapting to modern dining sensibilities The spotlight is on ingredients like lemongrass pandan tamarind galangal turmeric dried chillies and candlenut mdash staples of Malaysian cooking to lend depth and complexityldquoThe biggest challenge was creating vegetarian and vegan optionsrdquo admits head chef Mitesh Rangras ldquoOn my many trips to Malaysia I rarely found vegetarian fare beyond fruit or eggs if you eat them mdash it isnrsquot part of their culinary culture We adapted removed shrimp paste and fish sauce and found new flavourful combinationsrdquoA view of the interiors at the restaurant PicsAshish RajeFor drinks we tried the Zero Proof version of Jungle Fire Rs 950 a blend of Jose Cuervo Reposado tequila passion fruit galangal and orange with a kick of Thai chilli topped with vegan foam KopiO Rs 950 features Jose Cuervo Silver tequila that has been coconut fatwashed combined with Kopi coffee and Amarula then clarified and finished with coconut water airOur meal began with the Nattu Kozhi Rasam Rs 370 mdash a countrystyle chicken broth rasam featuring pulled roast chicken which was familiar yet deeply comforting The Tender Coconut and Avocado Salad Rs 495 added a burst of freshness with passion fruit vinaigrette birdrsquos eye chilli and crispy shallots The Coconut Water Noodle Salad Rs 495 was a delicate tangle of coconut jelly noodles candied red chilli and vermicelli in kaffir lime vinaigretteAmong the small plates the Sambal Chicken Roti John Rs 475 inspired by a Penang street classic transforms the humble sandwich into bitesized brioche topped with spicy minced chicken and pickled chilli A highlight is the Signature Roti Sarang Rs 450 mdash a fluffy parotta ring filled with sunnysideup eggs minced chicken and chilli The Roti Canai with SoftBoiled Egg Rs 475 mdash that flaky shredded parotta served with curry mdash is comfort on a plateIkan BakarFrom the bakar bakar grill the Ayam Penyet Rs 550 mdash flattened chicken marinated with green chilli and peanut paste then flamegrilled mdash packed a punch Seafood lovers will enjoy the Sarawak Salmon Sashimi Rs 650 which is chilled and dressed in a golden curry sauce with curry leaf oil and peanut crumble or the Ikan Bakar Rs 650 a fish marinated in roasted Malay curry powder steamed in a banana leaf and grilledto perfectionFor mains the Lamb Rendang Curry Rs 765 mdash slowcooked aromatic and caramelised in coconut milk and spice mdash pairs beautifully with Steamed Rice Rs 285 To close the Tropical Sin Rs 495 seduces with coconut mousse roti tuile citrus glaze and candied ginger ice cream while the Dark Chocolate Passion Rs 550 layers chocolate creme with passion fruit tuile cream cheese and a whisper of Baileys gelato mdash indulgence with finesseThe Penang TableOPENS TodayAT First floor VN Sphere Mall Linking Road Bandra WestCALL 8591174660LOG ON TO thepenangtable