This new taproom in Mumbai blends comfort and curiosity— the desi way

Bandra Kurla Complex doesnrsquot lack restaurants but there arenrsquot enough taprooms given that itrsquos a business district So when we heard that HyLo Taproom by Igloo had opened mdash a first for the Jio World Drive mdash we dropped by for a taste test with a beery happy companion Replacing Aditi Dugarrsquos SeeSaw the new 75seater from All In Hospitality transforms the address into a space that marries the casual ease of a neighbourhood bar with a confident vibe Seating ranges from booths to community tables with an outdoor greenhousestyle section for openair gatheringsA tasting flight of 150 ml poursFrom chef Mrigank Singh and Swati Harsharsquos menu we began with Aam aur Mircha Rs 550 where juicy Ratnagiri mangoes met the smoky heat of Nagalandrsquos King Chilli creating a sweetspicy kick though the mango flavour barely surfaced The Imli aur Nolen Gur Rs 550 fared better with a tangy tamarind and rich date palm jaggery glaze that was sticky sweetandsour and satisfying The Touchings NonVegetarian Platter Rs 325 was a slight letdown featuring tiny cheese matchsticks chewy prawn pickle spicy chicken sausage and crisp rice bites that were offtargetPic CourtesyHYLOmumbaiWith our appetites lined up for drinks Razvan Zamfirescu or Razz led us through a tasting flight of five 150 ml pours with chakna R750 where we sampled the colours aromas and character of their craft beers and cider The Brewerrsquos Blonde Ale a HyLo signature was crisp and refreshing with light citrus notes mdash perfect for easy drinking Our favourite the Mumbai Daze NEIPA offered soft juicy tropical notes of mango and passionfruit aromatic and smooth on the palate The Heavy Hitter Russian Imperial Stout was dark and bold rich with roast malt coffee and chocolate flavours The Ready Red Apple Cider and Cherry Sour was unimpressive though the latterrsquos cherryandspiceinfused gose was tangy playful and nostalgicKaaley Chane ke Shaami PICSNIMESH DAVENext we sampled Mutton Galouti Rs 750 and Kaaley Chane ke Shaami Rs 550 from chef Swati Harsharsquos family recipe book The silkysmooth galouti was delicately spiced and fragrant Still we found ourselves leaning towards the vegetarian shaami mdash black chickpeas with a soft subtlyspiced centre that tasted earthy nutty and homely It could easily pass for the mutton version Among the small plates Baiguni Rs 490 mdash crispy fried eggplant cubes with chilled garlic yoghurt spiced almonds and fried garlic was a tad flat lacking the crunch and creaminess we had hoped for The Lehsuni Prawn Rs 750 made amends the charred succulent prawns tossed in golden garlic butter garlicy buttery and slightly smoky Thecha Jumbo Prawns Rs 1499 were tossed in a fiery Maharashtrianstyle thecha made with green chillies garlic and peanuts The heat hits first followed by smoky nutty undertonesSwati Harsha and Razvan ZamfirescuThe bar menu borrows from local and global With Igloo Craft Beers on tap Chaitanya Khanapure Igloorsquos founder and brewmaster ensures that the beers complement but never compete with the food Razzrsquos Little Master Rs 1100 a tribute to Sachin Tendulkar blends Mezcal Campari Dolin Sweet Vermouth and IPA Mumbai Daze Bold mdash balanced and boldMidway during our tasting Mayank Bhatt founder of All In Hospitality joined us to explain their ethos ldquoWersquore not chasing trends or plating foams This food honours its origins mdash thoughtful rooted and served in a way that feels both familiar and exciting It tastes like home but feels like your next favourite night outrdquoChocolate ToastFor the mains we focused on the cityrsquos rarer offering of Indian smash burgers The Dum Ke Bhoole Paneer Rs 550 featured soft smoky paneer with a slightly charred caramelised exterior creamy buttery and comforting The Mutton Chapali Rs 650 mdash spiced minced mutton mdash was rich aromatic and satisfyingly smoky We also tried the Ema Datshi Tingmo Ezay Rs 650 Bhutanrsquos national dish a creamy cheesy slightly tangy chilliandcheese broth served with soft steamed buns utterly comforting We washed it down with their homemade lemonade mdash Yuzu and Gondhoraj Sorbet Coffee Fizz Rs 200 a bright citrusy sorbet combining the zesty tang of yuzu and the aromatic kick of Gondhoraj lime paired with a light coffee fizz for a sparkling finishThe desserts were the scenestealers Sri Lankanrsquos favourite Wattalappam R450 a coconut milk and dark jaggery steamed pudding was soft caramely and indulgent The finale Chocolate Toast R850 showcased rich fruity Indianorigin cacao from the Godavari Delta mdash bold bittersweet and decadently chocolatey it signed off our visit on a happy noteHyLo TaproomAT X G30 Ground Floor Jio World Drive BKCTime 11 am to 130 amCall 9653256778 For reservations