Menswear steals the show at the Golden Globes

If anyone needed further proof that menswear is the next frontier of high fashion last Sundayrsquos Golden Globes made it undeniable The message is clear top fashion houses traditionally known more for their womenswear are now flexing their muscles in the menrsquos department ldquoItrsquos a refreshing start to 2025 These arenrsquot really trends theyrsquore personal statementsrdquo says Shahab Durazi the celebrated couturier often dubbed as the ldquoArmani of Indiardquo for his sharp tailoring and fastidious attention to detail ldquoMenrsquos styles at the Golden Globes had a distinct dandy feel with impeccable construction on classic staples A peplum or tailcoat wouldrsquove been a great addition thoughrdquo adds DuraziWith this newfound focus the red carpet has evolved into a style battleground with guys stepping up their game just like their female costarsmdashbut taking bigger risks with a mix of enthusiasm energy and overthetop flairNot just rhetoric these sartorial statements are manifesting as distinct themes likely filter into the mainstream ldquoWhile the prevailing mood is unstudied therersquos a countertrend toward gloss Sheen is out making space for luxurious matte fabricsrdquo predicts Durazi Durazirsquos proverbial winner of the night Jeff Goldblum The Wicked star wore an Amiri crystalembellished aquabluegreen blazer paired with a bejewelled pin ribbon tie and brooches on both lapels ldquoI loved the ombreacute play and the mix of patterns For me he stood out in a way that made me keep coming back to the look Whatrsquos remarkable is that as an older actor he really owned this avantgarde ensemble with such ease and confidencerdquoLapels get a glowupBefore buttons were invented pins and brooches were essential for fastening fabricmdashand often served as status symbols By the late 20th century however most men had stopped wearing jewelleryAdrien Brody in Thom Browne right Sebastian Stan in PradaNow with two Best Male Actors in a Film Drama and Musical or ComedymdashAdrien Brody The Brutalist and Sebastian Stan A Different Manmdashboth wearing brooches in unexpected ways the trend is gaining serious star power Brooches especially those with more feminine design elements now carry a transgressive feel as men rediscover a lost fashion Brody wore a supersized brooch by Hong Kongbased jewellery designer Elsa Jin with his threepiece Thom Browne suit while Stan opted for Cartier Art Deco white diamond and black enamel brooch with his Prada number ldquoThe brooch is possibly the one piece of jewellery men are comfortable sportingrdquo Durazi sharesAlso ReadIndian men rule the bling Statement jewellery takes centre stageGetting creative with the classicsThe black tuxedo Classic yes Safe definitely But memorable Not so much So how do you stand out quickly in a tuxGlen Powell in Giorgio Armani Colin Farrell in Dolce amp Gabbana Andrew Garfield in GucciColin Farrell broke with tradition in a Dolce amp Gabbana white tux accented with bold slabs of black detailing Andrew Garfield turned it up in a Gucci wool doublebreasted olive green tuxedo featuring a satin black peak lapel that revived the original power move with a Vcut toward the shouldermdashdesigned by Sabato De SarnoShahab DuraziGlen Powell a firsttime lead actor nominee for Hit Man wore a sharp black Armani tuxedo with a peak lapel and cummerbund Both ditched the bowtie leaving their shirts undone and adding a touch of devilmaycare swagger ldquoItrsquos a reflection on contemporary masculinitymdashan exploration of the fine line between control and releasemdashwithout quite veering into gender fluidity We saw it in the relaxed urban tailoringrdquo says DuraziA beano for the bowtieThe neck became the focal point for the neodandies on the red carpet with the bow emerging as a quirky standoutColman Domingo in Valentino Timotheacutee Chalamet in Tom Ford Jesse Plemons in GuccildquoThere was a subtle yet quintessentially masculine play with bow tiesrdquo says Durazi laughing as he adds ldquoIt feels like a deacutejagrave vurdquo In 2022 the couturier launched his Fine amp Dandy collection loosely inspired by the English dandy featuring stiffened collars and elaborately tied neckerchiefs and bow tiesmdash almost as a nod to feminist solidarity with pussybow neckties ldquoItrsquos nice to see that the collection still feels fresh and relevantrdquo he says Colman Domingo went full maximalist slipping into a black tuxedo from Valentino with blackandwhite bowwrapped silk tie and cummerbund ldquoThe cummerbund adds value to the waist it creates a pleasing balance between the waist legs jacket and torsomdash really completing the tuxedo lookrdquo says Durazi Meanwhile Jesse Plemons kept it classic wearing a silk bow tie neatly tucked under his Gucci doublebreasted tuxedo collarTimotheacutee Chalamet ditched the bow tie for a Bob Dylanesque thin polkadotted blue silk scarf paired with Haider Ackermannrsquos debut Tom Ford ensemblemdasha skinny black suit with sequinspeckled details ldquoThe narrow mufflerlike scarf gives the classic a casual deconstructed feel Sometimes a simple look can make a statement on its ownrdquo adds DuraziPastels for men in JanuaryAndrew Scott in Tiffanytoned Vivienne Westwood Jeremy Strong in velvet Loro Piana and Jeff Goldblum in a crystaldusted Armani suit have confirmed that soft hues arenrsquot just for springmdashthey can bring personality and attitude to menswear even in the colder monthsAndrew Scott in Vivienne Westwood Jeremy Strong in Loro Piana Jeff Goldblum in AmiriWhat does it all mean ldquoFrom classic blackandwhite to jewel tones like aubergine and burgundy and nowmdashhere come the vibrant happy pastels Colour is personal and itrsquos refreshing to see men stepping out of their comfort zones especially since conventional dressing has long been the defaultrdquoTo balance pastel shades Durazi suggests keeping the silhouette neatmdashthink boxy coats and slim trousers Modern minimalism with a pop of colour