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The Royals of Mumbai: Take a walk through the city to marvel at the palaces

Once upon a time, Mumbai was a residence for India’s princes and pomp. A walk along Malabar Hill and Breach Candy lets you see the ghosts of palaces past

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The old US Consulate Pic/Getty Images

The old US Consulate Pic/Getty Images

Netflix’s The Royals may have done justice to Ishaan Khattar’s physique, but it fell flat when it came to capturing the real drama of royal life. The true picture is very different; but if it sparked curiosity about the royals, you needn’t leave Mumbai. Malabar Hill was lined with once-opulent palaces back in the day. The neighbourhood wasn’t just posh, it was practically a parade of Maharajas.

After the Governor of Bombay shifted his residence from Parel House (now Haffkine Institute) to this sea-kissed slope in 1883, the Maharajas followed. And where royalty goes, fancy residences are not far behind. Centuries later, what’s left are repurposed buildings and plenty of intrigue. You can go on a quick royal crawl through South Mumbai to see what’s hiding in plain sight.

Wankaner’s sea palace 

One of the lesser-known but grand stories belongs to Maharaja Amar Sinhji of Wankaner, Gujarat. In 1936, he handpicked a plot a kilometre from Mahalakshmi Temple, designed his sea palace, and filled it with artefacts from around the world. Post-Independence, it was leased to the US Government and became the city’s visa hub until safety concerns moved the Consulate to BKC. 

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