Celebrating India’s royal kitchens one pop-up at a time

In June 2024, chef Arun Kumar at Araiya Palampur hosted a Sikh Royal Kitchen food pop-up to share and celebrate the rich culinary heritage of the Sikh tradition. The royal kitchens of Patiala, he adds, were famous for their Mughal-inspired cuisine, which was influenced by the culinary traditions of the Mughal Empire. He explains, "The royal kitchens of Patiala were established during the reign of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh (1891-1938), who was known for his love for food and hospitality. The royal family had a long tradition of hosting grand feasts and banquets, and the royal kitchens were designed to cater to the demands of these lavish gatherings."

Mughlai food is one of the many popular cuisines that India boasts of today even after so many years. As India celebrates Independence Day on August 15, the country's food is unique in many ways and one of them has to be the richness of the royal kitchens. At a time when pop-up kitchens are becoming really popular every other week with people coming from all over the world, there is a section that caters to the Indian palate that revels in the richness of the food eaten by India's royalty.

Showcasing the royal house of Patiala
Having closely worked and researched on the pop-up, Kumar says the chefs in the royal kitchens were trained in the art of cooking elaborate dishes. Beyond the classic biryani, he explains, "There are dishes such as Dum Pukht, which is a slow-cooked rice dish cooked in a sealed pot with aromatic spices and herbs. The Tandoori is also a part of the cuisine, as it is a traditional north Indian method of cooking meat or vegetables in a clay oven, known as a tandoor. Beyond that, kebabs with skewers of marinated meat cooked over an open flame. Lastly, the halwa being a rich and creamy dessert made with semolina, sugar, and ghee." Additionally, the Royal Kitchens were known for specialities such as the Shahi tukda, Patiala's famous lassi and Golgappas too.

Like every other royal kitchen in India, the Sikh royal kitchen was a grand feast that was influenced by it's culture. "The royal kitchens, particularly from the era of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, were known for their rich and diverse offerings. The cuisine was influenced by the various regions and cultures within the empire, blending local ingredients with elaborate cooking techniques. Meals in Sikh royal kitchens were grand affairs, often involving multiple courses and large communal servings. This tradition reflects the hospitality and generosity of the Sikh culture."

But which ingredients really made their feasts so grand? Kumar says, "The use of ghee (clarified butter) is a staple in Sikh royal cooking. It adds a distinctive richness and depth of flavor to many dishes. The use of a range of spices such as cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and black pepper are commonly used. They are often toasted and ground fresh for maximum flavour. The royal kitchen also used saffron in various dishes, particularly in rice and sweet preparations, for its colour and aroma. The abundant use of dry fruits like almonds, cashews, and raisins are used to add texture and sweetness to both savoury and sweet dishes." Last but not the least, the royal kitchens use paneer, adding a rich and creamy texture. The cuisine of the royal kitchen would be incomplete without legumes and lentils and fresh herbs too.

Lack of knowledge about royal kitchens
While Sikh cuisine, especially from the broader Punjabi region, is well-known, Kumar says the specific dishes and traditions from the Sikh royal kitchens are less widely recognised. Kumar explains, "The unique historical and cultural aspects of these royal kitchens, such as their elaborate feasts and distinctive cooking methods, are not as familiar to the public. Efforts like pop-ups and festivals help to showcase and educate people about this niche aspect of Sikh culinary heritage, but broader awareness is still growing."

Even as the royal kitchens are appearing through pop-ups, Kumar says the food from the royal kitchens of Patiala are unique in more than one way. "The food of a Sikh royal kitchen, particularly the Patiala royal kitchen, is distinct from other royal kitchens in India due to its unique blend of traditional Punjabi cuisine, Mughal influences, and the royal family's own culinary traditions.

Sikh royal kitchens are distinct primarily due to their blend of local Punjabi flavors with influences from Central Asia and Persia. What sets them apart is their emphasis on robust, hearty dishes prepared with ghee, rich spices, and a variety of legumes. Unlike some other royal kitchens, Sikh cuisine often features a communal, feasting style that reflects the egalitarian values of Sikhism," he shares.

Ingredients in Royal Kitchens
It is no different for Nishant Diwakar, executive sous chef of Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa in Goa, who has hosted 'Kitchens of the King', showcasing royal kitchens in more than one way. In the process, he has also learned how these kitchens focus on luxurious ingredients. He sheds light, "The use of saffron adds a rich colour and unique flavour; cardamom and cloves are essential for aromatic dishes. The royal kitchens also use dried fruits and nuts such as almonds, pistachios and raisins. The use of edible gold and and silver varq is also used for decoration. Lastly, they also use rose petals and rose water for flavour and garnish." It also includes spices like pipali, trifala and ratanjog too.

Over time, he has not only experimented with Mughlai royal food but also Awadhi flavours that include the likes of Galouti Kebab, Nihari and Shahi Tukda. In Rajasthani royal kitchen, daal baati churma, laal maas anf ghevar are irreplaceable. When talking about royal cuisine, it is impossible to miss out on the eternal favourite Hyderabadi biryani, Haleem and Double Meetha too.

While people may know about the food of the state, Diwakar says many people don't know the historical context, complex techniques, exotic ingredients and presentation that define these cuisines.

He notes, "The fascination with royal kitchens and their culinary heritage has led to a resurgence in interest, with many people eager to experience the flavours and dishes once reserved for royalty. This trend is part of a broader movement towards historical and experiential dining, where people seek to connect with the past through food."

Royal kitchens of Maharashtra
Even Bhushan Ganorkar, executive chef at DoubleTree by Hilton, Goa in Panjim agrees with Kumar and Diwakar. Only recently, he hosted a traditional Maharashtrian royal kitchen experience at the restaurant. He explains, "Maharashtrian cuisine is perceived as Kolhapuri cuisine, which is not true. It has much more to offer than pandhra and tambda rassa because Saraswat Brahmin's food, Karhades and Marathas have also contributed well to the cuisine, so we hosted this festival to bring those different cultures and regional differences together."

Since it was the cuisine of Maharashtra's royalty, diners for to know about food from families like the Scindia, Holkars, Peshwas and some of the highlight dishes were Kothimbir chicken, Crab masala and Kala Mutton Sukkha too, shares Ganorkar.

This is especially interesting because, Ganorkar believes as these royal families moved away from erstwhile Maharashtra, people lost touch with their food too. "The Scindias settled down in Baroda, Holkar in Indore and Mehendales in Belgaum and neighbouring states like Gujrat, Karnataka and Madhya Pradesh.

While the country boasts of many different cuisines, Ganorkar says Maharashtrian royal kitchen food is not based on rich gravies or cream but it is based on home-style family based recipes and regional ingredients and that is what makes it unique.

Also Read: Intimate dining over niche, regional cuisines in Mumbai