From Kozhukatta to Modakam: Exploring modak varieties from South India’s culinary landscape

When it comes to Ganesh Chaturthi, there's a savoury element that transcends robust celebrations and thrilling pandal-tripping. It's the modak - a widely adored sweet, filled with coconut-jaggery stuffing, and prepared through steaming or frying. Known as the beloved delicacy of Ganesha, devotees prepare Modaks as a religious offering to symbolise their love for the elephant-headed deity.

A modak comes in various forms and flavours. The most traditional version native to Maharashtra is ‘Ukadiche Modak' which needs no introduction. A steamed dumpling made from rice flour dough filled with a mixture of grated coconut, jaggery and cardamom is brimming fast as the festival arrives. Yet, as we journey towards the Indian Ocean, we uncover inventive variations of modak flourishing in the Southern kitchens.

Kozhukatta
Colette Tammeleht recalls a fond memory from her hometown when she was ten years old. Back in Kochi, her mother's culinary creations for Vinayaka Chaturthi came with an innovative bent. The delectable versions included modak-shaped kozhukatta, a traditional Kerala sweet dumpling made from rice flour, coconut and jaggery.

Enacting her mother's style of cooking, Tammeleht shares, "She prepared the dough by mixing rice flour with hot water. Once it settled, she would then fill it with a mixture of shredded coconut and jaggery. The dumplings were shaped like small, elongated cones or half-moons and were usually steamed. Sometimes, my mother would get creative and use ripe plantains or jackfruit pulp as fillings."

Apart from being a popular festival delicacy, Kozhukatta happens to be served as an everyday snack for breakfast in Kerala households Tammeleht's taste buds are stimulated as she recounts the cherished childhood memory of munching the piquant dish. With ten days to go for Ganesh Chaturthi - she has set out to capture the same essence of modak that she inherited from her Malayalam lineage.

In Kerala, Kozhukatta is made during festivals like Onam and Vishu, as well as during special occasions and family gatherings. The filling is enriched with sesame seeds, dried ginger powder, and cardamom powder, in addition to the classic combination of jaggery and coconut.

When it comes to ingredients and preparation, there's no discernible difference between kozhukatta and modak. Their distinction lies solely in their appearance. While the Maharashtrian modak adopts the shape of an upturned cone, kozhukatta enjoys the liberty of taking on any desired form. One can choose a shape that resonates with them, steam it to perfection, and present it as an offering to Ganapati.

Recipe for Kozhukatta

Ingredients:

Rice flour, 1 cup
A pinch of salt
Boiling water, 1 to 1.25 cups
Grated coconut, 1 cup
Grated or chopped jaggery, 1/2 cup
Cardamom powder, 1/4 tsp
A pinch of salt

Method:

For the filling:

Heat a pan on medium-low heat and add the grated coconut.
Dry roast the coconut for a few minutes until it turns slightly aromatic and light golden in color.
Add the grated or chopped jaggery and continue to cook on low heat.
Stir continuously until the jaggery melts and combines with the coconut. The mixture will become moist and sticky.
Add a pinch of salt and cardamom powder. Mix well.
Cook for a few more minutes until the mixture thickens and starts coming away from the sides of the pan.
Remove from heat and allow it to cool. Once cool, shape the mixture into small, lemon-sized balls and set them aside.

For the dough:

Boil 1 to 1.25 cups of water in a saucepan. Add a pinch of salt.
Place the rice flour in a mixing bowl.
Gradually pour the boiling water over the rice flour while continuously stirring with a spoon or spatula.
Keep stirring until the mixture comes together and forms a smooth dough. Be careful as it will be hot.
Once the dough has cooled slightly, knead it gently for a few minutes to make it smooth and pliable. If the dough is too dry, you can sprinkle a little warm water and knead until it's smooth.

Frying the Kozhukattai:

Take a small portion of the dough and roll it into a smooth ball.
Flatten the ball in your palm to form a small, thin disc.
Place a coconut-jaggery filling ball in the center of the disc.
Carefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling, covering it completely. Pinch the edges together to seal.
Shape the filled dough into a smooth, slightly elongated or conical dumpling. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Heat oil in a deep-frying pan over medium heat.
Gently slide the shaped Kozhukattai into the hot oil.
Fry until they turn golden brown and crispy, turning occasionally to ensure even frying.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels to remove excess oil.
Once done, allow the fried Kozhukattai to cool slightly before serving.

Recipe by Colette Tammeleht

Modakam
Rani Annadurai, a 37-year-old home chef hailing from Tamil Nadu, has a deep-rooted connection to the art of making modakam, also known as Vella Kozhukattai. Rani, like many others in her region, views modakam as more than just a culinary delight. For her, it's a symbol of devotion and tradition. She shares with Midday, the authentic style of preparing modakam from down south.

In Tamil Nadu, the making of modakam involves a meticulous process. Rice flour and millet dough are skillfully blended to create the outer casing, which is then filled with a rich mixture of grated coconut and jaggery known as Poornams. There are two variations available for this style of modak: One is steamed, and the other is deep-fried.

What sets it apart from the Maharashtrian modak is the method of preparing its fillings. Apart from Poornams, it makes use of a harmonious blend of spices such as cardamom, ginger, bajra and sesame. The modakam's shape varies, allowing for a creative touch. Rani, inspired by her heritage, has explored innovative filling ideas over the years.

She has experimented with additions like roasted nuts, saffron-infused jaggery, and even a hint of rose water, injecting new flavours into this timeless tradition. Moreover, she has made other savoury items out of modakams with vegetables as fillings. For Rani and countless others in Tamil Nadu, the act of making modakam becomes a labour of love and spirituality, connecting to her roots and the divine.

Recipe for Modakam

Ingredients:

Bajra flour, 1 cup
Sesame seeds, 1/4 cup
A pinch of salt
Water, 1/2 cup
Grated ginger, 1 tsp
Grated jaggery, 1/2 cup
Cardamom powder, 1/4 tsp
Grated coconut, 2 tbsp

Method:

For the filling:

In a mixing bowl, combine the grated jaggery, cardamom powder, and grated coconut.
Mix well to form a sweet filling. Set it aside.

For the dough:

Heat a pan on medium-low heat and dry roast the sesame seeds until they turn slightly golden and aromatic. Remove them from the pan and set them aside.
In the same pan, dry roast the bajra flour for a few minutes until it becomes aromatic and changes colour slightly. Be careful not to over-roast, or it may become bitter.
Transfer the roasted bajra flour to a mixing bowl.
Add a pinch of salt and grated ginger to the bajra flour.
Gradually add water while mixing to form a smooth, pliable dough. The dough should be firm enough to hold its shape but not too dry.
Allow the dough to cool slightly.

Frying the Modakam:

Take a small portion of the bajra dough and roll it into a smooth ball.
Flatten the ball in your palm to form a small, thin disc.
Place a small amount of the jaggery filling in the center of the disc.
Carefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling, covering it completely. Pinch the edges together to seal.
Shape the filled dough into a modak or dumpling shape. You can make pleats or decorate them as desired.
Heat oil in a deep-frying pan over medium heat.
Gently slide the shaped modakam into the hot oil.
Fry until they turn golden brown and crispy, turning occasionally to ensure even frying.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels to remove excess oil.
Cool the fried Bajra and Sesame Modakam slightly before serving.
Enjoy your crispy and flavorful modakam as a delightful sweet treat.

Recipe by Rani Annadurai

Kadubu
In Karnataka, a variety of modak goes by the nomenclature - Kadubu. A delicious snack hailing from the culinary traditions of Karnataka, Kadubu is relished during breakfast or as an evening treat. Karnataka offers a diverse array of Kadubu varieties, each with its own unique twist.

In a pursuit to dig deeper, we spoke to Geetanjali Sharma, a Bengaluru-based home chef. She shares with Midday the reason behind offering modak during Vinayagar Chaturthi. "According to the Puranas, ancient Hindu Sanskrit texts, it is believed that when Lord Ganesha was just a baby, his grandmother lovingly pampered him with delightful laddus.

However, as Ganesha grew older, his appetite for laddus continued to increase. At one point, his mother, Parvati, recognised that she wouldn't be able to prepare laddus quickly enough to satisfy his hunger. This prompted her to come up with an alternative treat for him to relish. Thus, she came up with a recipe encompassing rice flour, coconut, jaggery and ghee."

While Maharashtrian kitchens are getting stocked with modak ingredients, Sharma, in Karnataka is out on a spree scoring her own version of preparatory items. Her innovative approach to crafting Kadubu involves utilising a mixture of rice flour and aromatic spices, which are cooked in hot water to form a pliable dough.

The dough is then artfully shaped and steamed, resulting in a quicker and more convenient way to prepare these delectable dumplings, without the traditional stuffing. This streamlined method preserves the essence of Kadubu's distinctive taste and texture while offering a time-saving twist on the traditional recipe.

One type of Kadubu resembles modaks, sporting an elongated shape - it entails filling rice flour dough with either sweet or savoury ingredients, followed by a gentle steaming process. On the other hand, there are swift and straightforward renditions that involve crafting a coarse rice flour and spice mixture, transforming it into a dough through hot water, and subsequently shaping and steaming it.

Kadubu, with its thin, steamed rice flour casing, encases a flavourful and aromatic mixture of shredded coconut, jaggery, and cardamom, creating a symphony of textures and tastes. Sharma embodies the rich culinary traditions of her region while crafting kadubus. The process of making these modaks has been passed down through generations in her family. It is deeply rooted in Karnataka's culture and is often associated with festive occasions like Ganesh Chaturthi and family gatherings.

Recipe for Kadubu

Ingredients:

Rice flour, 1 cup
A pinch of salt
Boiling water, 1 to 1.25 cups
Finely chopped, roasted almonds, 1/2 cup
Grated or chopped jaggery, 1/4 cup
Cardamom powder, 1/4 tsp
A pinch of salt

Method:

In a mixing bowl, combine the finely chopped roasted almonds, grated jaggery, cardamom powder, and a pinch of salt.
Mix well until the jaggery combines with the almonds and forms a crumbly, sweet mixture. Set aside.

For the dough:

Boil 1 to 1.25 cups of water in a saucepan. Add a pinch of salt.
Place the rice flour in a mixing bowl.
Gradually pour the boiling water over the rice flour while continuously stirring with a spoon or spatula.
Keep stirring until the mixture comes together and forms a smooth dough. Be careful as it will be hot.
Once the dough has cooled slightly, knead it gently for a few minutes to make it smooth and pliable.
If the dough is too dry, you can sprinkle a little warm water and knead until it's smooth.

Frying the Kadubu:

Take a small portion of the dough and roll it into a smooth ball.
Flatten the ball in your palm to form a small, thin disc.
Place a portion of the almond jaggery filling in the center of the disc.
Carefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling, covering it completely. Pinch the edges together to seal.
Shape the filled dough into a kadubu or dumpling shape, ensuring it is well sealed.
Prepare a steamer by greasing the steamer plate or tray lightly with oil.
Arrange the shaped kadubu on the greased plate, leaving some space between them to expand while steaming.
Steam the kadubu for about 15-20 minutes on medium heat, or until they become translucent and firm to touch.
Once done, serve the Almond-Stuffed Kadubu when It has cooled off.

Recipe by Geetanjali Sharma

Modak reinvented
Every year, Bhumika Bhurani, the visionary behind Hot Mama Bakes, comes up exciting take on modaks. This year, she proudly presents her innovative twist on the classic fried version. She emphasises that the delightful textures remain faithful to tradition, boasting a crispy exterior and a soft, delectable interior. These unique modaks come in two varieties: Chocolate fudge and Khajoor fillings.

Cost Rs 150 for five, Rs 300 for 11 pieces, Rs 550 for 21 pieces.
Call 9833739961 (orders close by September 15)