29 April,2024 03:10 PM IST | Mumbai | Nascimento Pinto
Solkadhi is a classic drink made from kokum, coconut milk and spices that is particularly enjoyed during the summers but also consumed throughout the year. Photo Courtesy: Nascimento Pinto
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Growing up in Maharashtra, Shruti Railkar remembers drinking solkadhi every summer during her vacations which she used to spend in Chaul, her native place that is situated off Alibaug in the western state of India. She reminisces, "We used to have solkadhi with lunch daily. My grandmother made it every time, we visited her there." Today, every time somebody speaks about solkadhi, the classic summer drink enjoyed in Maharashtra, particularly during the summers but also throughout the year, it evokes nostalgia for the Mumbaikar. So, what makes this pink-hued drink unique and why do Maharashtrians love it so much?
Every year, Maharashtra Day is observed on May 1 to commemorate the formation of the state of Maharashtra, upon its separation of the Bombay state on May 1, 1960. While we celebrate the formation of state, the food and culture have always been an integral part of its uniqueness. Among the many aspects, the cuisine is absolutely delicious because of the varied specialities. However, if one had to pick up one aspect that needs to be celebrated, it has to be solkadhi, a drink that not only corresponds with the day but also summer season.
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Solkadhi during summer vacations
More than anything else, it may just be the best representation of Maharashtrian culture and food, especially during this time of the year. Many people may opt for to debate about it, but Railkar does believe it could be the perfect example for more than one reason. She says, "Since it is made up of kokum and coconut milk which are readily available in Maharashtra, I believe it is the best representation of Maharashtrian culture. It also goes with the typical Maharashtrian meal whether it is vegetarian or non-vegetarian food."
The drink is known to be usually enjoyed by people along the Konkan region that includes coastal Maharashtra, Goa and some parts of Mangaluru. It is traditionally made with coconut milk and kokum, which gives it its attractive pink hue; a little bit of salt, chillies and garlic paste are also added to it - the recipe changes depending on the region but remains one that makes it irresistible. It is a drink that is usually had during a meal or after it but relished either way. "I consume solkadhi mainly during summers. In Mumbai, we have it on Sundays, especially for lunch which is usually a seafood meal or one with some chicken/mutton curry," explains Railkar, who also runs âPassport and Pizza', a heritage walk initiative in Mumbai informing people about the city's rich history.
Over the years, the recipe hasn't changed at all, and the Railkar family follows the same recipe her grandmother has been following all these years. "Soak kokum in water for 40 minutes, then squeeze them to extract the juice, and retain the water. Crush garlic, chilli, salt and cloves together. Add kokum extract and the crushed matter and coconut milk together and it is done," shares the 33-year-old, continuing, "I don't think other communities know about it much. I think it's more popular in Maharashtrians and Goans but not so much in other communities."
Cementing relationships
Elsewhere in Mumbai, Sneha Purav agrees with Railkar. "Solkadhi is known but I believe its current popularity does not do justice to its taste. Everything that Maharashtrian cuisine has to offer is still far from popular," she shares. Purav's relationship with solkadhi goes beyond food because it is one of her most favourite experiences during the summer and time to bond with her father-in-law. "As a child, I often remember relishing a delicious Maharashtrian non-vegetarian meal till I was absolutely full and yet not being able to resist that glass of solkadhi prepared by my Aai (mother). Solkadhi also has a very sentimental value for me, as it was one of the things that cemented my relationship with my father-in-law."
The city-based pastry chef, who runs the city-based dessert shop Cheri, says her father takes pride in making the solkadhi with his recipe. "Generally, I would shy away from asking him to make something for me but when it comes to solkadhi, I manage to ask him without hesitation and he is more than happy to oblige," she adds. Being a glorious summer drink, the Mumbaikar says being from the Maharashtrian community, the family often makes solkadhi because of its cooling effects on the body. Apart from that, she finds solkadhi irresistible especially when she wants to truly enjoy a good non-vegetarian meal. "Solkadhi is like a cherry on a cake. The meal is often incomplete without it," she expresses.
Being a true lover of solkadhi, Purav believes it is the perfect symphony of tangy salty, sweet and spicy in some cases. After a tasteful meal of Malwani non-vegetarian delicacy, solkadhi plays the best role of a palate cleanser and yet somehow just enhances the after tastes of the Malwani spices and that is what makes it unique for her.
Even as she has her reservations about solkadhi being the best representation of Maharashtra during summers, she doesn't deny its popularity over other dishes. "Solkadhi is a good summer dish, but I do believe there are other dishes which take a higher place like panaha or nachani satva, which can be more fitting to represent Maharashtrian cuisine. However, there is no denying that these dishes aren't quite as popular as Solkadhi," shares Goregaon-based Purav.
Ask her if the family's preparation of solkadhi has changed over the years, and the chef in her highlights another aspect of making the summer drink. "The making of solkadhi hasn't changed as much as the quality of kokum. As time passes, it is getting harder and harder to find some really good quality of kokum," explains 31-year-old Purav, but that doesn't stop her from enjoying solkadhi not only during the summer but throughout the year in her home.
From the grandmother's kitchen
Uma Dandekar, 84, who is an Andheri-based retired officer-turned-homemaker says solkadhi is an integral part of Maharashtrian cuisine for many reasons. It has been a Sunday ritual in her home from the time she was a kid as she would consume it with her family on Sundays when there were dishes made from chicken and mutton, and still continues to do so. Interestingly, learning the recipe came naturally to her when she helped her mother with the cooking. Some of her fondest memories are consuming it during her husband's office parties whenever they took place at their home.
So, what makes the drink a staple in her home? "Solkadhi comes to the rescue when we eat spicy food like batatachi bhaji (dish made from potatoes), it is consumed to stop the burning sensation that is experienced after eating any spicy, and also aids in digestion because it is very cooling and the best solution is to drink it," shares Dandekar, who absolutely loves it for its âaambat' (sour) taste. She adds, "The sour taste comes from the soaked kokum and the taste it lends to the water, when it is mixed with coconut milk, salt and coriander leaves." With a little bit of sweet, sour and spicy flavours, the recipe may differ but solkadhi is a staple in almost every Maharashtrian home. It easily makes it a favourite that should not only be consumed but also celebrated as one of the many jewels of Maharashtrian cuisine that may not look like a star drink but definitely one that is yearned for upon completing your meal.
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