Raj Kapoor, Lata Mangeshkar, Pandit Ravi Shankar: Mumbai's Gaylord reopens but carries a legacy with old-world charm and food

Iconic Mumbai restaurant Gaylord may have renovated and reopened with a new look, but it retains its old-world charm that is hard to miss when you enter the doors. Dhruv and Divij Lamba, the third generation of the family of one of two business partners have literally grown up here. Dhruv says, "We spent countless hours here, witnessing the joy it brought to our patrons. The aroma of freshly baked bread and the clatter of cutlery were like a comforting lullaby. We have fond memories of attending events with our families, creating a legacy that continues to this day."

Today, glowing in its incandescent light through its chandeliers, the 67-year-old restaurant situated outside Churchgate railway station even after all this time transports you to simpler times. A time when diners were loyal to their restaurants, as generation after generation continued to visit them, over the years.

Being one of such much-loved restaurants, mid-day.com visited it on a Monday and was left surprised with the warmth not only from the staff but also from fellow diners. They regaled stories of coming to it in the past, even though they are overseas, and even getting friends and family along. Friends, family and couples - it didn't take long for the tables to fill up on a Monday.

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Incidentally, Gaylord was started by two food business partners Iqbal Ghai and Pishori Lal Lamba in 1956, who had already started Kwality Ice Cream in Delhi. The name of the restaurant, which is also inspired by a combination of their names, has been synonymous with Mumbai ever since then; such has been it's popularity that this writer has heard about it since the late 90s as a child. This legacy has been continued by the Lambas, including Sunil Lamba, and since then by the third generation - Dhruv and Divij Lamba, who have been instrumental in the makeover.

So, what prompted the brothers to think about renovation? Dhruv Lamba shares, "Gaylord's revamp wasn't just about a fresh coat of paint. It was a thoughtful journey to embrace the future while staying true to our roots. We noticed a shift in the city's demographics, with a younger, vibrant generation seeking new experiences. We wanted Gaylord to be a space that catered to them as well as our loyal patrons." The new menu, he expresses, offers exciting dishes alongside timeless classics, while the live music nights create a lively atmosphere. "It's a celebration of Gaylord's legacy, reimagined for a new era," he adds.

The menu is certainly a mix of old and new, as all things with a legacy should be. We started by indulging in Mohabat Sharbat, a bubbly and refreshing red-white mocktail quenching our thirst on a hot summer evening, as Mumbai witnesses one of its hottest few weeks in recent years. It was followed by Kala Khatta, another mocktail that is their take on the classic Kala Khatta that Mumbai boasts of during the summers, especially at the golawallas on the beaches. The restaurant gave it a unique twist with pomegranate seeds and neem leaves, helping us stay hydrated as we navigated some classic as well as new appetisers.

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We indulged in the Paneer Boti Tikka, which is a classic at the restaurant. It had mouthwatering chunks of melt-in-the-mouth cottage cheese laden with a delicious marinade of hung curd and spices. It was a well-balanced dish that came to the fore because of the spices and flavour of mustard that made the paneer delicious. After a taste of the favourites, we sampled the Soya Champ (name in the menu) Tikka, a new dish added to the menu, and rightly so, especially because of how so many younger people are turning vegans, apart from being a great choice for vegetarians coming to the restaurant. The soya steaks had a smoky flavour because it was charcoal roasted with a spicy tandoori masala; the best part was the cheese oozing out of the chunks and combined well with the smear of tandoori making them a perfect treat. The Cheese Balls, on the other hand, are new but yet familiar to all. The crisp deep-fried balls are loaded with cheese that make them irresistible with the tamarind chutney.

While enjoying these dishes, we traversed through the cocktail menu, as we sang along to Ronan Keating's ‘When You Say Nothing At All', which was one among many songs being played by the pianist at the grand piano on the ground floor. The first floor boasts of a large bar that has been moved; while it used to earlier be in the centre, it now takes up the space on the left. It leaves enough room for diners to stretch out their legs leisurely on the comfortable sofas.

The walls and the restaurant are full of history or like Dhruv likes to say "a time machine". He adds, "The black and white photographs adorning the walls are more than just decorations; they are stories waiting to be told. You will find legendary personalities like Raj Kapoor and Lata Mangeshkar gracing these frames, and visits from musical maestros like Pandit Ravi Shankar are a testament to Gaylord's rich history." The vintage Parisian patio, colonial architecture, and intricate chandeliers transport you back to a bygone era, while the plush seating ensures it's a comfortable one."

With a mix of classics and new cocktails, we start with the classic and potent Cinnamon Old Fashioned, the mixture for which comes very dramatically in a skull and a burning cinnamon stick. The cocktail is poured into a glass and is a version of the classic Old Fashioned cocktail with a touch of smoked cinnamon giving it an earthy flavour, that builds up our appetite for the non-vegetarian spread.

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If the vegetarian dishes made quite an impression on us, the non-vegetarian dishes aren't far behind. It was also due to how many people on surrounding tables were relishing the Indian fare with curries and rotis - and ordering like they were regulars and didn't need to look at the menu. We started with the classic Kasturi Murgh, which represented north Indian cuisine at its best and got even better with the portion sizes. The chicken thighs had a mild smoky flavour that came through because after being slathered with a marinade of fenugreek leaves, ginger, garlic and yellow chillies, after they were coated with eggs, they were cooked on burning embers of coal.

After a feast of chicken, we enjoyed the perfectly made Butter Garlic prawns, which can never go wrong, and the chefs did total justice to the medium-sized prawns with a mild flavour of garlic and butter that could easily be savoured before we reached out for the Lamb Galauti With Parantha. The classic galauti kebab, which are pounded smoked lamb kebabs, are crumbly and as tender as can be and a perfect accompaniment with the triangular paranthas.

The flavours of this spread were washed down by a refreshing and fruity Guava Picante because of a delightful mix that comprised of tequila, coriander, jalapeno, guava and citrus - it was spicy and sweet, and perfect with the choice of food.

The star of the meal was the Chicken A La Kiev, which has been on the menu since 1956 and continues to remain there as a favourite. Being a meal in itself, it comprises of a large chicken breast, stuffed with buttered mushrooms and cheese. If it is something that you haven't tried before, this writer believes you are in for a surprise. The butter oozes out of deep-fried chicken, which is placed on a bed of rice, and mixes with it, to help you indulge in a buttery treat of butter-soaked rice that you can balance out with mashed potatoes and charred vegetables, due to its richness that may catch you by surprise. Since it is one of their most iconic dishes, it is definitely a must-try and may make you think about altering your courses along the way.

While the meal is nothing short of a feast, it is impossible to end without a Caramel Custard, that comes with whipped cream and a cherry on top, accompanied by a neem leaf - all of which, when eaten is rich in flavour yet light on the palate, making it the perfect way to end your meal, as it is also a favourite Mumbai dessert.

Even as the Lambas are excited about their reopening and the new dishes, ask them their favourites and it's clear. "We personally love the Chicken Ala Kiev, Roast lamb, Lobster Thermidor and Gaylord Kebab," Dhruv shares. However, they say a lot is changing. "While the classics like Chicken A La Kiev and Gaylord's famous mashed potatoes remain favorites, we have noticed a growing demand for lighter, healthier options. The new menu reflects this shift, offering vegetarian delights like Veg Au Gratin and flavourful elixirs on the cocktail menu. We want Gaylord to be a place where everyone can find something to savour, regardless of their age or dietary preferences," Divij concludes.