Sweet, sour, bold and spicy: What is Nikkei cuisine and why is it becoming more popular in Mumbai

Recently in March, pan-Asian restaurant Yazu in Lower Parel hosted a Nikkei Food Festival. It is one of more restaurants in recent times who have jumped on the bandwagon of serving the cuisine in Mumbai. Such has been the growing interest for the cuisine that Megumi, a Japanese restaurant inspired by the Nikkei resto-bar culture opened in Santacruz in February and serves a variety of dishes on their menu. It was the second restaurant in two months, after city-based restaurateurs Kishore David Frederick and Sarabjit Singh Keer opened Tango Tamari, a Nikkei restaurant in Juhu in December 2023.

As more restaurants and menus sprout in the city about Nikkei cuisine, it appears to be the latest cuisine that has taken the fancy of Mumbaikars and their constantly evolving palate and need for new experiences. So, what is Nikkei cuisine? Nikkei cuisine is a fusion cuisine that has been derived from Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. It is typically made by Japanese immigrants who moved to Peru in the 1800s and settled there to create a cuisine that made use of Peruvian ingredients used in Japanese food. "The popularity of Nikkei cuisine is steadily growing as more diners become exposed to its unique flavours and ingredients. While it may take time for it to become widely recognised, I believe its bold and vibrant flavours will appeal to the Indian palate and contribute to its popularity in the future," shares , chef Vadim Shin, who is the brand chef for Yazu in Mumbai and Goa, and was first introduced to the cuisine in 2015 through a Peruvian chef friend, who owns twoJapanese-Peruvian restaurants in Dubai.

Uniqueness of Nikkei cuisine
Chef Mitesh Rangras, head chef at Tango Tamari shares, "It is a new flavour. It is a combination of sweet, sour, spicy and fresh ingredients that are very unique. The chillies, fresh seafood, and herbs really make for a great cuisine loved by all." After toying around with the idea of how best to depict the cuisine in Mumbai, Shin's efforts translated into the menu that will continue in April too. Ask him about the response and he is quick to admit that it has been overwhelmingly positive, especially for dishes like chicken wings, sushi, and tiradito. "Indian diners have embraced the bold, spicy, and tangy flavours characteristic of Nikkei cuisine," he adds. It is also the vibrant flavours, along with the freshness of Peruvian ingredients that make it different, as this writer experiences while tasting the menu, which has as many as 17 dishes on it for people to try out, without being too overwhelming.

The flavours of Machu Picchu on Fire are as dramatic as its entry as it lit up with a flame torch. The tuna neatly balances the taste of the avocado and crab stick with jalapeno. The Palta Rellena, on the other hand, has an orange zest that lands beautifully on your palate, and elevates the avocado. The flavours in the generous helping of Furikake Prawns are brought out with a hit of truffle in every bite. Among many dishes, the Parilla de pescado has a delicious Coca puree made from Argentina black berries and served with Yuzu salsa that pronounce the Japanese and Peruvian flavours for the diner.

Interestingly, long before the recent buzz, Koishii at The St Regis Mumbai in Lower Parel opened and started serving dishes from the cuisine in May 2022. While some diners are introduced to the cuisine for the first time, chef Kinyo Rodas, masterchef at Koishii, adds, "Some guests draw parallels between our offerings and their culinary adventures abroad, remarking on the authenticity and depth of flavour reminiscent of their travels. While preferences vary, a common request is to incorporate slightly tangy or spicy elements, reflecting the dynamic interplay of tastes that define Nikkei cuisine."

Rodas, who hails from Peru, has known about the cuisine from a young age, inspiring him to try his own versions of Peruvian dishes. This very dream came true when the Peruvian chef started helming the city-restaurant, as he says the "concept of Koishii draws inspiration from the innovation of Japan and the liveliness of Peru. The seamless fusion of Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions characterises Nikkei cuisine". However, the culinary approach is a fusion of American, Japanese, Asian, and European influences, anchored in traditional techniques and home-style cooking.

Diving into the ingredients and dishes
As the city-based chef uses Japanese techniques to make dishes from the cuisine, he believes one of its most unique elements is the use of Peruvian chillies that are instrumental in creating a dish. It is no wonder that when making dishes with Peruvian ingredients, sourcing them is equally important. "Importing ingredients isn't a challenge as we source them via flight or ship. Some essential items, like Peruvian chillies like Habanero, Jalapenos, Aji Amarillo, Aji Mirasol, and purple potato, are directly sourced from Peru," explains Rodas. It is no different for Rangras, who says the menu was designed keeping the very availability of the ingredients in mind, as they are constantly in touch with vendors who not only import but also produce some of these ingredients. Even Shin at Yazu sources the ingredients from Peru and Japan. However, he also remains practical. "We also utilise locally available ingredients to ensure freshness and accessibility. For instance, we may replace Peruvian chili peppers with local Indian chilies to maintain the essence of the dish while adapting to regional availability."

Among the many ingredients, Shin has taken the liberty to experiment with Tiger Milk and Achiamarillo in various Japanese seasonings and sauces to bring out the flavours of the cuisine on the menu. He adds, "Diners should definitely try the signature Nikkei dishes such as the Fellicidad Roll sushi, Alitas de Pollo as well as the Beetroot and Pear Tiradito on the menu. The roll is made up of tempura asparagus, chipotle sauce, maiz picante truffle cheese sauce, co-ca puree with black cherry salsa. The tiradito, on the other hand, has pickled beetroot and pear, avocado, yuzu, bubu arare, sea grapes, aji amarillo dressing and yuzu citrus."

Beyond the chillies, Rangras, who tried the cuisine during his research quests at Chotto Matte in Doha, Nobu in Bangkok and Morimoto in Hong Kong, highlights that some of the unique elements that define the cuisine are the Peruvian chilli peppers, fresh seafood, avocado, corn, citrus and quinoa also help define the cuisine through its various dishes.

At the restaurant, he says people should definitely try the Hamachi Tiradito and the Avo Crown, as they not only showcase the diversity of the cuisine but also its cooking techniques in a seafood and vegetarian dish respectively. "The Tiradito is fun because of the fusion of European and Latin flavours with Japanese techniques. The dressing has capers, chives and fresh jalapeno. There is also Dijon mustard, EV olive oil, fresh pickled Persian cucumbers and daikon. This harmony with fresh Hamachi is top class. While a sashimi has its own merits and I love eating it, I do prefer this style over sashimi any day." On the other hand, the Avo Crown is the restaurant's version of the Poke. "Fresh sushi rice is smeared with a fresh mango wasabi mayo and then topped with dragon fruit, seaweed, marinated tofu or salmon, edamame and other toppings. It is surrounded by fresh sliced Avocado and resembles a crown, which gives it the name," he adds.

On the other hand, Rodas dives deeper into the menu at the speciality restaurant to offer perspective. He highlights, "One of my favourite creations is the Peruvian Hamachi Ceviche - a tantalising blend of Hamachi, Peruvian corn, and Tiger milk. This dish exemplifies the harmonious fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours, offering a symphony of tanginess and freshness that delights the palate. Another standout is the Seco Norteno, a classic Nikkei dish featuring a unique medley of ingredients sourced from Peru and Japan, including Yamasa, Soy, Quinoa, and Yellow Chilli. Its intricate flavour profile and cultural depth invite diners on a culinary journey, challenging preconceived notions of Western cuisine with every savoury bite."

At the same time, since it is a new cuisine that most people want to experiment with, Rangras says people with allergies should look out for buckwheat, shellfish, nuts and gluten, as they are commonly found in food in the Nikkei cuisine but that shouldn't deter them from exploring the cuisine in Mumbai.