Thecha in vada pav and chicken wings? How Indian chefs are changing the way you look at the Maharashtrian condiment

Move over spicy chutney in vada pav, try thecha in vada pav or at least that is one of the many dishes that Indian chefs are trying to experiment with using Maharashtrian condiment. The spiciness of the thecha is unique and distinct yet a favourite among so many Maharashtrian homes. If you are Maharashtrian or have lived in Maharashtra, you have definitely come across the delicious condiment that is an integral part of the cuisine. However, there seems to be a silent movement, even as chefs are elevating traditional dishes to create modern Indian dishes, of making something like thecha, which is a bright green spicy condiment and making it the star of the dish. What is making the thecha popular?

Beyond the Thecha Vada Pav, Rohan Malwankar, executive chef at the Navi Mumbai Marriott Hotel, is challenging the notion of traditional Maharashtrian dishes by also using it in misal pav. Malwankar explains, "With the increasing interest in exploring regional cuisines, thecha, being a traditional Maharashtrian condiment, has gained attention beyond its native region. Food enthusiasts and chefs are actively seeking out authentic regional flavours and thus contributing to the popularity of thecha. Thecha's versatility makes it appealing in modern Indian cuisine. It can be used as a condiment, marinade or flavour enhancer in various dishes such as sandwiches, wraps, salads, and even fusion cuisines." It is this very ability to complement a wide range of flavours and ingredients that he believes makes it a valuable addition to contemporary culinary creations.

Using thecha differently in Maharashtrian food
For the uninitiated, thecha is a traditional spicy condiment or chutney originating from Maharashtra, and Mumbai chef Sanket simplifies it. He says, "The literal meaning of 'thecha' is pounding." Malwankar adds, "It's primarily made from green chilies, garlic, and often includes other ingredients like peanuts, cilantro, and lime juice. The ingredients are typically ground together into a coarse paste using a mortar and pestle or a food processor." While the Kolhapuri thecha is known to be famous, the condiment is synonymous in Maharashtrian cuisine and eaten along with many different kinds of dishes including zunka bhakar.

Including it on their menu two years ago, and using it innovatively, Malwankar adds, "In the thecha vada pav, the spiciness of thecha would complement the savoury flavours of the potato vada and add an extra kick to every bite. The garlic and chilli flavours in the thecha would infuse the dish with a bold and aromatic essence, enhancing its overall taste." On the other hand, he uses thecha as a garnish or mix it into the misal gravy for an added punch of flavour. A spoonful of thecha is sprinkled on top of the missal along with other garnishes like farsan (crunchy mix), chopped onions, and cilantro. "The spiciness of the thecha would elevate the complexity of flavours in the missal, providing a delightful contrast to the sweet and tangy notes of the gravy. It would also add a layer of freshness with its garlic and cilantro components, enhancing the overall eating experience," he adds.

At Avatara in Juhu, chef Sanket uses the condiment as a part of a Maharashtrian dish but nothing like you would imagine before. He explains, "It is used in our second course called Alpahara, which literally means snacks, and we serve three side dishes from Maharashtra, one of them is called Okra Chilli Thecha. The okra has a chilli thecha filling and we serve it with solkadhi. So, we suggest to guests to eat the okra with thecha and take a spoonful of solkadhi along with it to bring the dish together and enhance the flavour."

Introducing it for the first time one year ago on their menu at Avatara Dubai, chef Sanket says the restaurant wanted to highlight the regional dish and flavours at global level and after a successful run there decided to introduce it in Mumbai and have been serving it as a part of their meal since April 2024. "So far, everyone is loving the balance and combination of Okra Chilli Thecha and Solkadhi, as they complement each other and bring the entire dish together," adds the happy Mumbai chef.

It is this very versatility that makes the city chef agree with Malwankar. He believes its robust nature and unique ability of blending with anything is the reason it is now slowly becoming popular. In fact, Avatara even tweaks the recipe to make their own version to suit their dishes. "The heat and adaptability to blend with almost any dish is the unique aspect of thecha. Since we don't use garlic, we replace it with ginger, chilli, oil and salt."

Interestingly, chef Sanket believes thecha has always been popular. However, he believes, "The understanding of the flavour and lingering effect of the condiment is now coming into limelight and people are more open to experiment given its natural ability to adapt with dishes." It only gets better during this time of the year as the monsoon season is underway. "Thecha is an all-season condiment but yes during monsoon because of its hot temperament it brings warmth and can be experimented with many kinds of broth," he adds, and even shares his family recipe of traditional thecha chutney. The freshly grated coconut is mixed with pounded chilli, ginger, salt, lime, and chopped coriander; it is served as a side-dish and condiment while eating.

East meets West
While the classic will always be a favourite, at The Westin Mumbai Garden City in Goregaon, chef Amandeep Singh, executive sous chef, says they have used thecha in their food in more than one way. He explains, "Thecha's robust flavour profile spicy, garlicky, and slightly tangy makes it a unique addition to various dishes."

With so many different kinds of flavours, they not only experiment with the condiment in dishes but also drinks. The five-star property not only makes a Thecha-Infused Grilled Chicken but also Thecha Spaghetti Aglio e Olio, and even Thecha Mango Mocktail, Thecha Bloody Mary, Thecha Guacamole, Thecha Paneer Tikka, Thecha Devilled Eggs and Thecha Fried Rice too.

While they marinate chicken breasts, and paneer for the tikka, in a thecha-yogurt, a spoonful of thecha is added to the olive oil and garlic sauce to give the spaghetti a spicy twist; it is no different for the guacamole which automatically gets an Indian twist to it with some tomatoes, onions and lime juice. For the mocktail and cocktail, it gives just the right amount of spicy kick. On the other hand, the prawns are sauteed in the thecha with garlic and butter; the rice is stir-fried with vegetables and soy sauce, and Thecha with the egg yolk and mayonnaise to make the Devilled Eggs.

He shares, "With its heat and bold flavours, thecha provides a comforting contrast to the rainy season, making it an ideal addition to monsoon menus. Whether in hot soups, spicy appetisers, or robust main courses, thecha can add a delightful warmth and excitement to the dining experience during this time."

Even Chetan Gangan, co-founder of YAAR in Goa believes it is perfect for the monsoon. He shares, "It has vibrant, spicy flavours complement the rainy weather perfectly, adding a zingy twist to comforting meals."

It is evident that the popularity of thecha has also crossed borders and entered Goa's restaurants. At YAAR in the sunshine state, Chetan Gangan, co-founder of the restaurant, says he has observed people's growing interest in regional specialities and the popularity of the condiment is an extension of just that beyond the Western state. He explains, "The flavour of thecha resonates with modern palates that crave bold and exciting tastes. Additionally, experimentation and innovation with various cooking techniques have contributed to Thecha's rising popularity."

Taking inspiration for their food from it and with the aim to showcase the flavours of Maharashtra, they decided to try it out with a dish that is a perfect example of East meets West. "We make Thecha Chicken Wings by creating an emulsion and drizzling it over 24-hour brined chicken. The chicken is then deep-fried and topped with toasted garlic panko," he shares. With the popularity of the dish picking up not only in Mumbai but also in Goa, the humble thecha is crossing not only geographical boundaries but also culinary boundaries.