World Paella Day 2023: How Mumbai restaurants are innovating with the Spanish dish

When it comes to food, Mumbai is right in the middle of it all not only being a melting pot of cultures but also different cuisines. There are not only new restaurants opening every other day but there are also new dishes and drinks being experimented with all the time. It is also because chefs and mixologists like to challenge themselves here because they cater to a divers diner's palate that is evolving every few months, and almost every chef this writer has spoken to says people in Mumbai are always on the lookout for something new to relish not only in Indian cuisines but every other kind.

Every year, September 20 is observed as World Paella Day to celebrate the Spanish dish, originally made in Valencia. Traditionally made with bomba rice available in the Spanish region, it also has saffron, vegetables and meats - all cooked in one shallow pan. Over the years, the dish has been spread to different parts of the world as people add their own touch to it. Mumbai is not far behind as city chefs are some of the many, to experiment with the delicious dish. Interestingly, it is because there are similarities in dish because of which the ingredients are available in abundance in the city, as chef Kshitiz Shekhar, director of culinary at The Bayview Hotel Marine Plaza points out.

He explains, "The accessibility of fresh seafood in a coastal city like Mumbai gives this traditional dish a distinctive flavour. It caters to the changing tastes of younger generations who are keen to try new foods from around the world." The dish, Shekhar believes, can be an alternative to popular rice-based Indian dishes like biryani, apart from being a unique gastronomic experience.

Touch of Himalayan red rice and chicken sausages
Making it at The Bayview Hotel Marine Plaza in Churchgate, the city chef has had the dish on their menu for two years now. Ever since it has been introduced, he says the quality of the dish to become a full-course meal that can be enjoyed during any time of the day is what has struck a chord with diners coming to the restaurant. While the classic version is available in different parts of the city, he innovates by incorporating local Himalayan red rice and chicken sausage in his paella, apart from all the other ingredients.

He explains, "The flavour profile of paella is distinctive, and saffron, paprika, rosemary, cayenne pepper, and garlic are indispensable components that contribute to that flavour. Additionally, including a variety of seafood, such as clams, mussels, prawns, squid, and crab claws, gives the meal depth and richness." Trusting his fusion of flavours and ingredients in the dish loaded with seafood, chicken and rice, Shekhar says he has made additions to make the dish more approachable and appealing to a wider audience in India, whose tastes he has seen evolve over time.

Shekhar shares, "Mumbai has embraced the variety of food available, and paella is becoming more popular here with a regional flavour. Paella's adaptability to the tastes of Indian diners is evidence of its diversity. Its availability at restaurants and smaller cafes, in addition to five-star hotels, speaks to Mumbai locals expanding culinary interests and openness. It's evidence of the city's vibrant food scene, which is constantly changing and experimenting with new foods from around the world." The fact that it is a healthier alternative than other dishes also makes it a good option for many who want to experiment with Spanish cuisine in the city.

It is not only Shekhar but also Veeraj Shenoy, chief officer - Food and Beverage, Malpani Group, who has made paella very often over the years and has seen more people lap it up at the table in restaurants. Shenoy, who is currently associated with Imagicaa in Khopoli, says there is so much more to paella then people know, and there are similarities all around. While they do not serve the dish at the property, he draws attention to a close cousin of the Spanish dish with the Afro-American dish, Jambalaya. "It is prepared with Cajun or Creole-style flavourings with rice, poultry, sausages. It originated from the influence of Paella and converging population in Louisiana."

As for the Spanish dish, he dives deeper. He explains, "Paella is not only a dish but an emotion that grips societies and encourages community cooking and dining. In today's world of fast food, it is one of the rare experiences of slow food and detailing par excellence not only in the technique of cooking but the freshness of ingredients which are local and sustainable."

With community cooking being a very common experience in India, Shenoy says the technique has been of cooking rice in an absorption method along with meats like game, seafood, shellfish and distinct flavourings of saffron. He explains, "There is lot of spill over from this Valencian origin across the globe, cooking biryani has an indistinguishable technique or the Malwani Kolambi Baath are the references that can be relevant to Paella open-fire cooking in a shallow pan for the rice and meats to be broiled in their own juices, creates the magic for all the dishes, prepared in this fashion." Apart from the final dish, he says the entire journey and process of cooking of the dish is an experience in itself.

Adding Basmati rice and Indian masalas
A little further away, even Anglo Indian Cafe in Lonavala has taken the liberty of experimenting with their paella to make it desi, says co-owner Shaheen Arsiwalla. She shares, "Our speciality is merging classic European dishes with our Indian spices to create comfort food with a twist. A lot of our dishes are inspired from the Mediterranean region in Europe, particularly our Desi Paella."

The restaurant is not only visited by locals from the Anglo Indian community, who live along the belt, but also Mumbaikars who travel there for a weekend trip stop by. For their Desi Paella, Arsiwalla says, they combine flavours by adding Indian masalas as well as use a mix of Arborio rice and Basmati rice to make the dish. Having been on the menu for over a year and a half, the co-owner also says that it is one of their most popular dishes on the menu. This Arsiwalla believes is because of the unique texture and our twist the restaurant adds to the dish. "Along with a touch of indian masalas, we serve it with cheese and sour cream," she adds, that makes it irresistible.

Even as these variations exist, it is evident a lot of people are getting to know about paella and come back for more, and that is also why it has remained on the menu for more than one reason. "It is enjoyed by vegetarians and non-vegetarians who like to add prawns or chicken to it. Additionally it's also a great gluten-free option," she adds, iterating Shekhar's view.

Elsewhere in the city, newly-opened Thea in Bandra is considering adding it to the revised menu. Up until now, the restaurant, which serves dishes from the Mediterranean cuisine, hadn't included it in the menu but a recent turn of events in the right direction has prompted them to give the Mediterranean dish a chance with diners, to showcase its rich Spanish culinary tradition. Chef Juliano Rodrigues shares, "We serve paella exclusively for special events and parties. It adds a unique and exciting element to these occasions, allowing us to showcase our culinary expertise." The response they got during these events has made them think of the addition.

If one thinks of it, the change is because of what Shekhar, Shenoy and Arsiwalla have observed, and Rodrigues agrees. "The appeal of paella lies in its ability to offer a taste of Spain while accommodating local preferences and ingredients," he says, continuing, "What makes paella unique is its combination of various ingredients cooked together in a single pan. This communal aspect of paella, where friends and family gather around to enjoy a hearty meal, is a standout feature."

So, how has the restaurant reimagined it? Rodrigues explains, "We use a traditional base of Arborio rice or black rice for its creamy texture and build upon it with a medley of fresh ingredients. Our paella features succulent saffron-infused chicken and seafood, creating a perfect balance of land and sea flavours." The saffron, he says, not only adds a vibrant hue but also imparts a subtle floral aroma to the dish. "We have enhanced the umami with a rich seafood broth made from a blend of fresh clams, mussels, and shrimp shells," he adds. The harmonious blend of textures and flavours aims to pay homage to its Spanish roots. While the rice, saffron and seafood, are important, the vegetables bring are equally necessary. "We incorporate roasted red peppers for sweetness, green peas for a pop of colour, and caramelised onions to add depth. A pinch of smoked paprika adds a smoky, earthy note, and fresh lemon zest brings a zesty brightness," he describes.

Taking the vegan route
While Rodrigues uses arborio or black rice, chef Nishant Diwakar, executive sous chef at Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa near Candolim, says one can also make a vegan paella. At the five-star property, they serve different variations including the original one. Reimagining paella is important, he says, to embrace modern health consciousness by incorporating more plant-based ingredients.

He explains, "We make a vegan Paella that features hearty grains like quinoa or farro as a base, infused with saffron and vegetable broth for the signature flavour. Roasted seasonal vegetables such as bell peppers, artichokes, and asparagus replace meat and seafood, while smoked paprika and garlic maintain the dish's essence. A sprinkle of toasted nuts or seeds adds a delightful crunch." In fact, Diwakar says, one can even make an Asian-inspired Paella and incorporate elements of Thai or Indian cuisine, infusing coconut milk, lemongrass, or curry spices into the dish too.

While the rice, saffron, vegetables and meats are important, he reminds, "Ultimately, reimagining paella is about preserving its core appeal - communal dining, bold flavours, and aromatic sensations, while embracing innovation and inclusivity. By doing so, paella can continue to captivate diverse palates and adapt to the ever-evolving culinary landscape."