Juhu gets a reimagined fine-dine serving India's culinary grandeur

Pani puri shots. Pics/Sameer Markande

After their focused tribute to Awadhi cuisine, Saffron at JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu relooks at its approach, and reopens this Saturday for service with an all-round celebration of India's culinary experiences. The overhaul is led by Ajay Jain, its chef de cuisine, who reveals that he stuck to the basics while curating the menu. "Indian food is already exact. All we did was to include unique techniques and small secret tweaks that wouldn't change its core definition," he adds.

Hyderabadi murgh biryani

When we walk in, we notice a tall see-through panel of floral motifs that acts as a partition for the restaurant. Past it, on either side, a wooden display holds vintage artefacts such as pots, jars and sculptures. The eye-catching open kitchen with a glass partition allows patrons to watch chefs work the grill and stir the pots. The familiar backdrop of golden and purple-blue-hued tiled kitchen walls is the lone remnant from its previous avatar. The ceiling has an intricate design, while dark metal curtains are creatively used to drape the restaurant walls for a subtle and elegant coziness.

Watermelon guac

Our sojourn begins with chaat, and Jain's Delhi do full justice here; we opt for pani puri shots (Rs 475). This dish gives the street favourite its due treatment. The puris have three stuffings: guacamole, aloo pieces fried in hing, and jeera and moong-aloo. The water is served in mini glass jars that contain sweet tamarind water, thecha water and pineapple juice spiked with salt, sugar, chillies and mint. The watermelon and guac chaat (Rs 475) is inspired by the fruit chaat plates sold at street carts. He garnishes the dish on the table with a dehydrated and nitrogenous saunth chutney. The bed of guac complements the pairing; the flavours are spot-on.

Kokum sour

The Kashmiri gucchi (Rs 795) is a winner that's packed with cottage cheese, stuffed morels and beetroot-walnut chutney. Taste-wise, the raw papaya salad peppered with kalonji stands out. The mains begin with a green Uttaranchal saag (Rs 695), which has seasonal amaranth, baby spinach called poi and Kashmiri haaq flavoured with jakhiya (wild mustard seeds). The Sunday mutton curry (Rs 995) reminds us of the kinds that are served at family lunches. The subtle flavours complement the coarse and rustic spice dance. "The mutton curry isn't from a particular region but is relatable in every Indian household that enjoys slow-cooking tough meat on their off days," Jain shares. The curry leaf, green chillies and coconut milk-forward lobster moilee (R1,295) is creamy, and hits the right notes. "We have stuck to the original recipe. Our only tweak is that we cook the lobster in sous vide, which alters the texture, making it a tad more wholesome," he explains.

Ajay Jain

Wild mushrooms, mascarpone, chillies-stuffed truffle kulcha (Rs 275) can be eaten as is. The topping of methi powder and black pepper keeps the truffle oil in check. From the cocktails, we try saquila (Rs 800). The first sip of the egg white foam has the taste of homemade saffron syrup and reminds us of thandai. A bigger sip draws our attention to the sweet tartness of yuzu and a gin-vodka infusion. The drink is also available with a tequila-laced saffron infusion. We love kokum sour (Rs 650), a fancier mocktail version of solkadi. The rich mouth feel helps cut the spices throughout our meal. Next time, we plan on trying the alcoholic version.

The Hyderabadi murgh biryani (Rs 1,550) is fragrant and light. Mildly spiced, the aroma of saffron and flavour of cardamom and cloves round up for a satiating experience. Dessert is a chenna (Rs 550), a rasmalai topped with a thick layer of North Indian-style malai kurchan. The rose petals add a cooling finish to an indulgent evening.

Saffron
At: JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call: 66933344
Time: 7 pm to 12.30 am