Why you should visit this new Goa restaurant in Assagao focussing on lesser-known Asian food

Roast Pork with crackling

When an old Portuguese home in Assagao, North Goa, was restored by Suzzane Khan to function as a South East Asian resto-bar, chefs Maia Laifungbam and Sanchit Behl were identified to curate a menu of hawker-sold, street food eats from Thailand, Laos and Cambodia while focussing on those parts of Asian cuisine that don't get highlighted in a majority of restaurants. Even the drinks menu at Village 36, designed by The Hideaway Bar, and mixologist Satish Shankar and Akshay Gadshi, leans towards Asian ingredients and modern techniques.

Meat that's aged by hanging A common process in Southeast Asian kitchens, dry ageing involves hanging meat in ideal conditions; Laifungbam says magical things happen when this is done. The flavour matures, the meat loses moisture, and the natural enzymes help break it down to make it tender. "We dry age a majority of our proteins - fish, beef, pork, chicken, duck - for under 36 hours. This helps them stand out as heroes in simple dishes that hold no more than two to three components. One of our bestsellers, pork with crackling which is a common street food of Thailand, sees the pork belly go through four stages before it reaches your table in what deceptively appears to be simple dish."

Broths that simmer all day The stocks that bubble on low fire for long hours are not just the broths that diners sample in the noodle bowls, but also work as base for condiments. Some stay on simmer for over a day. "One of our popular bowls, the Vietnamese pho is served with two different cuts of meat and marrow," Behl says.

Maia Laifungbam, Satish Shanker and Sanchit Behl

Charcoal-cooked glazes Village 36's custom three-chamber BBQ is a beast. The final chamber acts as a smoker where they use mango and other ethically sourced wood to slow smoke the dishes. "It adds an oomph to the flavour. A lot of our dishes are also glazed and grilled on the BBQ, like the butternut squash with black garlic butter; the king oyster mushroom and our Vietnamese-style meatballs. Glazes like the tom yum-inspired, fermented garlic, are elevated when cooked on charcoal," explains Laifungbam.

At Village 36, the food and the drinks are a gateway to the streets of the Far East

Infusion centred cocktails Fresh Asian ingredients like kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and pandan are used in contemporary cooking techniques like sous vide, flavour compression, fermentation and infusion. "For instance, in Giggle Water which is our star cocktail, we elevate the flavours with cider that's infused with watermelon, basil and spices. In Mariachi, there's a concoction of tequila and spiced rum that lends a touch of fruity notes with house strawberry shrub and the funky sweet notes with our vanilla syrup which we ferment for almost a month. We use the same strawberries from the syrup to make a strawberry leather garnish," says Shankar.

‘If you have an ounce of doubt, don't put a dish on the menu'

Vedant Gupta, CEO-Partner at V Escapes, V Dine and V Estates, on the mantras that define hospitality

Why did you choose Goa to set up your restaurant business?
It has been our hub since 2019 when we ventured into luxury villas with V Escapes. In 2021, we launched Vedro Bar and Kitchen in Panaji and saw success with it. In a very short time, Assagao [village in Bardez] has become a melting pot of cuisines. Since we wanted to be at the centre of the burgeoning restaurant business, we came here. It hosts a strong culinary community of sorts, spearheaded by like-minded people.

How important is decor at your restaurants?
It makes the first impression - even before you look at the menu or taste the food. It sets the tone for a good meal. A space needs to make you feel welcome, tell you that you belong there. The elements can be conversation starters.

What's the formula to running a successful restaurant in India?
Good food. Run repeated tastings till you are sure of a dish's worth. If you have an ounce of doubt, don't put it on the menu. Second, build a good team. A restaurant's operations and logistics can break some of the best among us. Build a team that can stand strong and stay committed, service after service. And yes, create a standout bar menu. Our cutting-edge clarification of drinks is already getting us noticed.